G'Day UFO

I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms

I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.6 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise


Regards Kogs

Kogs,

Parallel Multifilar Primary works best. But RECHECK RESISTANCE TO BE SURE ABOVE 1 OHM!!

Anyways, do not worry too much except to be above 1 ohm , (I can tell you are worrying too much.. ) like I told you before, you have bolted connectors that could be very easily connect-reconnect...so make tests on different ways...draw your conclusions on best approach/outputs...write them down and share them here so the rest could learn also...

I forgot to tell you... that as long as wires ares together and not divided by a heavy insulator or core...the secondary could be sandwiched or above primary, or even mixed with...I was referring before to isolated secondaries by a core...so do not pay too much attention on rewinding it again to get secondary all the way inside the core...it will work also..sorry about it...I got confused there...but still prevails same laws...Radiant induces best from Outside-In.

Regards


Ufopolitics

Also all my next coils will be wound contiguausly not as single strands

Hi UFO
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but I want to start getting things rounded up for my coil. In a post some time ago you were talking about using carbon fiber as winding instead of copper. If that is true than I can get what is called carbon tow it is way cheaper than magnetic wire and you got me all excited when you talked about how good it would be for radiant. I have figured a simple way to insulate it while winding. The one problem I can see is that the electrical resistance of it is 13 miliohms per foot so it will take many winds to get to 1 ohm or can the secondary be less than 1 ohm. I do plan to use magnet wire for the primary coil. What are your thoughts on this?

Regards
Larry

JohnStone
In the pmw circuit with multiple fets you stated that unit D should be duplicated for each fet. My question is--- if I am using unit E also, should this duplication be with both D and E or just E next to the fets. This is a good control from 8Hz up to anywhere you want to go.
Dana

Larry
Bob and I have been working on carbon for some time and recomend that you wait untill we get some results which all can use. You can work on it also but as of now, this topic need much work befor putting in any system. Just use traditional coil for now is my recommendation.
Dana

Hi Dana
What have you and Bob done so far?

And what schematic are you referring to above with unit D and so on?

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

Carbon Fiber have incredible attributes for Radiant, but, as Dana said it is something unknown so far, If you go back to conversation between Bob French and I about it, will find out Bob have same Carbon Fiber Tow...and He is still trying to get it wound and insulated...
So I recommend to keep to the same old magnetic wire as primary for now...and IF to use it, do it for secondary only. since this is your first test.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Larry
The circuit is a fet driver with booster presintes by John Stone in post #841.
The only way to know about these things is to build and compare results. So far I have full control of everything in a rock solit setup up to 24 volts.
Dana

I will redraw my schematic conforming the hints below in order to clarify the matter. But read these hints before.
1.
There is all about switching FETs fast. First it is good in order to keep them cool.
Second I learned that it is important in OU matters to switch fast. It is the suddenness of switching action that stirrs the vacuum.
I will explain the effects below and tell you then what to obey first.

2. A FET owns a gate capacitance of about 1 nF. The faster it can be charged / discharged the faster the FET will switch (and stay cool). We talk here not of ms but of µs or much less. So do not apply your "DC-feeling" and "DC-expertise" in order to evaluate the facts.

3. Professional FET drivers will source and sink about 1...5 Amps for minute slices of time. I do not urge you to drive so hard but keep in mind that we do not have CMOS like weak signals here. Of course we get a FET switched on with weak signals but the intermediate time can be disastrous.

3. What determines the speed of charge / discharge for the gate capacitance?
a) Length of wire from driver to gate or gates = inductance (1m => 0.05µH) Apart from differnt delays if differnt length the inductance can initate HF oscillations and thus repetetive ON/OFF/ON/OF switching actions. The result might be burned FETS and lag of OU activities.

b)Drive capability of the driver itself and the capability to get current out of its power lines. It is essential to have capacitors (10µF + 100nF) minimum attachted DIRECTLY to the driver VCC/GND.

c) Resistance of the wire GATE/GND - between FET and driver. The charges need to travel as fast as possible from teh pwer capacitor of the driver to the FET. Don't calculate - help the charges to be be fast!


4. Now most of you are not blessed with plenty of high end measurement utilities and you will build your setups mostly blind regarding HF matters. So consider some milestons detected in the foggy environment and follow them.

• You may drive your FET with a LM358 . You may decide to use LM324 in order to get a quad drive. Remember the switch off action is more essential and you will get a drive of 4x16mA minimum.
  You might decide to use a NE555 as driver device only (200mA)
• Keep wires SHORT between driver output and FET gate including GND. It is no prblem if you have some distance between generator and driver(s)
• Keep GND line thick between FETS and your driver(s) and generator.
• It is best to double the LM358 in parallel.
• If you use multiple FETs in parallel please take in account that you slow the switching time with the same factor.
• Multiple FETs might do worse than a single one because they have now desastrous switching property starving on drive current at their gate.

In summary:

• Start with one generator being a unit for itself - and- one separated driving unit built out of driver (including caps for power) and one FET being all placed close together. This will be a reliable setup.
• Try multiple FETs on that driver and be careful not to burn FETs being possibly poor driven. Keep the wires from driver to gate (including GND) all the same lenth. This might be no reliable setup.
• Duplicate the driver unit (driver, caps, FET) several times and drive them by your singel generator. This will be a reliable setup being scalable with known properties.
  Check the maximum driving capability of your signal generator output by calculation.

Hi prochiro!
As you now crowled up to this place: YES it will be advisable to do so! Thus you provide a reliable and scalable set of building stones being testable separated as well!!!!!
I do not claim that other methods will fail but I advise for prdictable and repairable setups.
If you have a working setup - DO NOT CHANGE it - but merely build a new one with separated building blocks as advised above.

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

JohnStone

Can a FET driver like TC4420 be powered by using LM7812 voltage stabilizer (1Amp rated) ? I don't understand what is stated in documentation. They say TC4420 need just 10uA of power but in other side can provide up to 6amps of power pulse to open FET gates. Is that true ? I need to drive two IRFN450 FET's in parallel.

@Bogusław

Yes this voltage regulator will be enough. High current supply is required for very high frequency switching and when there are parallel MOSFETs connected to the driver. Just put big enough capacitor as a buffer after the voltage regulator.

Pozdrawiam
Piotr

It is quite simple:
The high amps is necessary for very short time of about 1µs or similar. This current can be sourced out of an INDIVIDUAL !!!! capacitor bank (10µF, 100nF ...) at the power pins of the driver. Any regulator will see the average amperage only - negelctable.
Imagine a hammer of 1/2 pound being able to generate 8 tons of force for short time and YOU are able to perform it with your tool but you experience the average effort impact only. You do not need to be a bulldozer
Nevertheless the wiring needs to be set up for HF and AMPS.

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

John Stone
I was reading your posts and can see that more exact off and on is important. What I was also wondering is in section E(Booster section), the PNP/NPN pair should also keep pace with the HF fets. Is there any need to select this pair in any way special. Do you have a favorite pair that is maybe more durable or better than any other for this job? I believe that the PNP in the second section does not need to be anything special. Am I correct? Thank You for your help in this area. Dana

PS You mentioned that this can be placed on a 2x2 or 2x4 board. I must be getting old as I required more board surface than that. Bad eyes, shaking hands, you know- things like that.

John Stone
The caps you mentioned to be placed at the power pins of the driver should be placed how, befor after or between? Also how large a bank for example 1,2,3,4 caps?Dana

Hi Dana,
Board size: It is a guess and shurely can be done if necessary. If you need more space it's OK so you can measure and debug more easyly.

Transistors: I did not build this driver stage myself but it is a known standard circuit. Standard transistors like BC307 or similar with a max. current of 1A / 40V should be ok.

Blocking caps on power lines: If you intend to build it absolute dead failsafe use 10µ+1µ+100n+1n. The smaller caps shall be as close as possible to the power pins. These caps supply sudden currents where wires still bother to start with current supply. I often place the smaller caps (100n, 1n) on the bottom of the board in order to get as short wires as possible to the power pins. The 1µ and 10µ may be placed more distant.
But in most cases a 1µ and 100n will be suffitient and at regulators 10µ and 100n. At opamps 100n only.
I decide by guess only conforming the expected current and steepness of pulses. But never omit a 100n at ICs and 1µF at regulators - minumum requirement!
Sorry there is no undoubtable rule for this as it can be decided ultimately by HF measurements only for every specific setup.

FET driver: Please stand by until I reworked my schematic. I will supply a 3rd suggestion with NE555 as driver as well. This circuit will be the easiest to build. All drivers shall be attached very near to the gate.
rgds John

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

Dana I was referring to winding carbon tow. I would like to know what you have tried so I don't waste time trying the same thing. What size are you using... 2k 4k 6k 12k? What have you tried to do to insulate it? Or is it Bob that is playing with it?

Regards
Larry

Hello all
There is one thing I never fully understood about winding mulitfilar. If you wind 100 turns of quadfilar and you connect them parallel, will you have the magnet field of 100 turns or of 400 turns assuming the same current in each coil. This should allow you to put more total current through the winding than if you wound 400 turns of singlefilar and with lower voltage, because the 400 turn single winding would have higher resistance. Anyone have any info on this or a link.

Larry

Larry
Bob and I have been working on the carbon but bob has been doing all the physical work. He will try to answer tomarrow as he is working overtime this week and has not been able to do much.

With four 100 turn wires you will get about four times the power over the 400 single wire due to resistance loss, ect.. The magnet field is proportional to this power so more power = more field strength. Primary voltage level is the big factor if wanting a strong field also. Many have made dozens of coils because we were told that the coil must match your system. The truth is almost any coil or configuration will work as long as you tune your system to the coil. UFO is correct about the OHMs thou.
Dana

Hi Larry,
you ask questions many skilled persons would like to have an answer for. I will tell you how I sort these items in my mind.
First of all - humans are not able to fully understand the reality. This is a notion uttered from great scientists (not me)! We use thinking models in order to have the feeling of understanding. Some models are true, others are partly true and can explain many effects but are misleading at others. Other pictures are basically wrong.
Take the model of electric current and traveling electrons. This explains alot but mislead from fully understanding our OU effects.

Conforming standard knowledge the turns of a coil * amps gives the magnetic field strength. This model helps understanding a small set of effects like standard coils.
But think further. We have losses increasing with thinner and longer copper wire. But these losses are absolutely not related to the magnetic field. If you had zero resistance and infinite long wire you could generate any strength of magnetic field with one single electron.
I understand the basic approach of Newman motor in this sense.
And I believe that we need to be open for these type of effects at Ufo's setups.
And if it is true that electricity contains a "cold" component ignoring resitances then we have to account for amp*winding / ignore resitance / count for copper mass and harvest the gain.

Same with multiplying the strands of a winding.
Conforming general knowledge it reduces the resitance only by increasing surface and mass of copper. The toatal amp * windings gives the magnetic field.
BUT:

• What about Tesla's hint of copper mass having an effect?
• Does anybody know if multiple strands modify the effects we are after in profoundly?
• What about assymetric windings. We never can wind multiple strands perfectly and symmetrically! Do we have displacement currents between these windings not being perfectly the same? Do we have internal oscillations not being seen outside?
• What about the notion of Leedscalnin stating that current is of symmetric nature - we have two opposing flows of different types of - whatever it is.
• What about corroded copper wire surface. CuO is a semiconductor and there is a patent out there where the inventor states that electrons (if there is such a pet at all) travel with superluminal speed in semiconductor layers - without any known reason (no extra energy input). Conversely when they return to the copper structure they slow down contributing extra energy at secondary. And CuO is one of the semiconductors having a poor effect. The inventor gives hints ot platings havening x100 and more of gain.
  So a poor boy from Bangladesh or Nigeria using corroded copper wire from scrap might light his house while we "civilized" guys take brand new shining copper wire and make perfectly symmetrical coils - and we fail perfectly .

A bunch of unknown effects added to general knowledge to explore.

Let's start with known knowledge being wide open for any observed facts being new. Let's play like children who do not say "yes I konw....". They play with the reality available and explore whereever a door opens. The bible gives this hint for exploring the faith but I think this hint is of general value for living beings.
rgds John

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

G'Day UFO et al
I have finished re building my coil By adding another 4 layers/Strands I configured as per my Option 1
The secondary I have set out nearest the core being 5 strands measured with digital multimeter.87Ohms and the analogue meter set zero before measurement 1Ohm
The primary coil is the last 7 strands closest to the core they measured with the digital meter is 1.43 with the analogue meter is 2 Ohms
My setup is here
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0653.jpg

I tested the Oscillator before connecting to the coil I did this by using a small SLAB 12.98v connected to the voltage regulator

You can see the the Voltage regulator works input 12 96v output is 11.39 it is here
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0656.jpg

The 555 Oscillator which does not seem to work is here
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...s/IMG_0655.jpg

I tested it by applying the 12.98v to the Regulator the output going to the input of the Oscillator which is 11.39v I set the digital multimeter to hertz and then the duty cycle but on each occasion it did not show anything

I checked all components starting with the pot it was OK then going from each leg of the timer I checked for continuity by reading the ohms to each component right through each wire land they all checked OK The value of the diodes, the ones from legs 6,7 were both 475 and the one parallel with the missing Movistor is 441

The lands even though they seem to be broken that is because the wire land's are woven through the board to steady them.

I really do not know where to or how to check the operation of the 555 timer (it was a new one)
I would appreciate some help as to what I can do
Kindest regards

G'Day Larry
If you wind a multifilar coil and measure the ohms for each strand they will be the same value, now if you now solder them together all the strands at each end and then measure the Ohms they will be less Ohms they are calculated the same as parallel resistors there is less resistance and the current can flow much faster.
On my Rick's 10 coiler I did this with the total 79 strands on the 10 coils and the ohms was less than 0.05 Ohms( John Bedidn says that the ohms of the sum of all the coils should be = or lower than the battery resistance and it would seem like a dead short)

Regards

Hello Larry,

First, Thanks John Stone for your great posts, I like your reasoning, your logic analysis, is excellent, I just will love to see thousands of John Stones around this Planet and basically in this Thread.

Larry, like I mentioned before to you...think first on the Electromagnetic field...
When you wind multiple (more than one) strands of wire, you reduce resistance, that is a fact of normal electricity simple calculation...But, mainly you increase the Magnetic Field Potential in each turn, by several conductors simultaneously pulsing out the same direction,the projected field gets to be sent to space in a larger and stronger spectrum, and using very little resistance, which means much less expense on our side, and that is a great advantage to any of our OU developments.


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello Ian,

According to the picture of Oscillator close up...I do not see you are connecting leg 8 to Vcc Positive 12V?, I only see the Tantalum cap connected to earth (ground). I see you have pin 1 to ground, and I also see Pin 4 getting Vcc positive from regulator from R68...but can not see positive from regulator feeding the 555 Leg 8. Could you tell me about this?


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello Ian,

In your Regulator, according to LM317 it is suppose to output somwhere around 12.80 V or so...Yours is outputting only 11 something...chack it...check that your voltage regulator does not dropp to lower values under load, that is very important to check...so add to it a 12 volt bulb, and watch it.
Second, the diodes at 555 (legs 6-7) between pot should be 1N4148 or similar, they are signal diodes...and I see a couple of big body rectifiers (like the NTE576) that are "too heavy" for that job...should use the crystal smaller ones since this side is low voltage...

That is so far what I see...

Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks Guys
You have answered what I already know and stated in my question, but UFO got closest. I was really asking about the ratio difference of the magnetic field in comparison between the 2 winds With the same current. I know it will increase simply from being able to get more current (current x number of winds) with less voltage, but that is an efficiency issue.
I have 2 14 foot lengths of 25 strand 22AWG magnetic wire bundled and ready to wind. I had considered using a 2" core, but since the wire is already cut, I figured I it would be better to use a smaller diameter core so I can get more turns for the length of wire. Thoughts?

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

Thanks, I knew what your questions were...
Now going to Coil...please measure first start and end terminals resistance, before winding...making sure you will have over one ohm resistance.
Second, use a core that will allow you to add later on another finer wire secondary core within...a 2 inches are a great diameter for this...

Regards

Ufopolitics

Finer wire secondary would indicate to me that you expect to get much less current out of the secondary (I thought small power in and big power out not just small voltage in and big voltage out)... so where do we pick up a usable out put current to drive a load?
I thought that would come with the radiant in the secondary coil.
Sorry for all the questions again... just trying to keep things straight in my head.

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

I know it is very hard for you to "let go" your learned knowledge for so many years...which is totally fine with me...I understand that fact perfectly clear. However, I should tell you to get "ready" to see "things" that your knowledge would not be able to explain very soon...in your upcoming testings, plus when you see My Motors at work...very soon.

Radiant transfers without the requirement of a big E Frame of laminated steel between Primary-Secondary...but just by adding a very center core of solid steel treated to accept very fast electromagnetic switching of polarities.

If you get a pretty well built and robust multifilar coil as primary, you automatically derive from it a sufficient output to run a light load, plus all other secondaries of equal or more wires just wound over or within that primary that will also output power out. That was referring to Primaries and Secondaries within same core space (wires with wires without an Insulated core wall, I call them Non Insulated or Non Isolated Secondaries).
Now, when you wind, let's say 4000 to 8000 turns of 33 awg wire in an insulated core , separated physically from Primary and insert it WITHIN your Robust Primary...then you will get a very High Frequency current that will shock you....that will produce a heavy spark that will burn your skin...and that it will melt any meter you connect to it trying to measure its amperage or voltage...and here is where you must use a HF Cap Bank to store it...then send it to a regular electrolytic bank, to be used as heavier load output feeding. It contains Heavy Currents, not only High Voltages. However, I know this fact contradicts regular physics and electrical knowledge, where current have to be "sacrificed" in order to output Higher Voltages...so, you test it, and let me know if this current is not strong enough...

The way I see this system could be set as a static generator.

1-Primary and Non Isolated Secondaries could feed lighter loads and should be calculated accordingly to demanded input from them.
2-Isolated Secondaries Output could be transformed via HF-Electrolytic Caps to feed Higher Loads.

Linear Amperage of low cycle (50-60Hz) typical electricity (as we all know it) is replaced in HF Current by very higher and much faster repetitions of same currents at extremely higher levels of oscillations due to the Electromagnetic Resonance or Magnetic Feedback of very strong spectrum magnetic fields. This is a fact Larry...you test it and let me know.


I thought we all will have a "quieter Larry"...but I think that is impossible in a Scientific mind like yours...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello Larry,

Radiant energy is not measured in volts and amps the radiant event has a naturally growing nature instead of the destructive nature of our hot current. The amount of energy gathered from radiant energy from what I have read and feel I understand is about frequency and volts instead of our usual amps and volts.

I hope I am not leading anyone astray but to give you an image of what we are doing is we creating a balloon of magnetic field (which stretches the aether) and before the balloon gets completely filled we cut the source of power. The aether which was expanded by this balloon of magnetism then quickly collapses closing itself on our coils. Due to the movements of the oscillation in the aether (expanding and collapsing) we are able to allow a induction of energy into our coil to occur, but instead of moving magnetism that we normally use for induction this is moving aether. A different kind (or manifestation rather) of current than we are accustomed to.


The auto-intensification action is a little hint to some of the actions Tesla describes while dealing with this energy, you can find it in his speeches, papers and notes. Usually with titles like, high frequency currents (Which are not AC a very often overlooked fact).., electrical phenomena, dissipation of electrical energy, etc.,
Aether Flow -- The True Electric Current?

Much of this is analogous to a heat pump, aether is a compressible gas that once isolated from our hot current (Some kind of filtering or what i really think, is it's a pre-decompression, a liquid to gas transition, re-enabling us to compress the aether itself) Once we have this purified gas-like aether we are able to use it in our analogous heat pumping process to capture some of the excess energy from our environment by compressing and decompressing the aether in the correct places to transfer the byproduct energy (captured and released through compress/decompression) to other parts of the circuit.
Joule heating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Some final things to add to the last paragraph..
Our tools for working with the aether are inductors and condensers, ALL elements of a circuit have elements of capacitance and inductance (When we get to the stage of building passively oscillating circuits then this may be of the most importance to understand and make use of).
Capacitance (condensers) push inward between points of differing potential, inductance expands outward due to the currents (traveling around the wire).
These are our compression and decompression stages, resonance is possibly a method of making it efficient (probably a required for any OU)

Eric Dollard - "Introduction to Dielectric and Magnetic Discharges in Electrical Windings" - Section 12
"12) ANOTHER FORM OF ENERGY APPEARS
Through the rapid discharge of inductance a new force field appears that reduces the rate of
inductive E.M.F. formation. This field is also represented by lines of force but these are of a
different nature than those of magnetism. These lines of force are not a manifestation of current
flow but of an electric compression or tension. This tension is termed voltage or potential
difference."

This new form of energy Eric refers to may be the aether compression I'm attempting to explain, he sees it as a compressed potential, same as the article "Aether Flow - The True Electric Current?"

I don't want to keep going like this so I am stopping here. I hope I didn't confuse anyone or get too much of this wrong I would hate for Ufopolitics to be upset with me.

I think I am on the right track though and I also think what we need to figure out to actually understand and use the process to it's fullest is how the compression and decompression work and what exactly is the excess energy in our aetheric 'heat' pump, that we wish to obtain from the environment.

I think there are a lot of people out there with the answers, we just need to put them together for the rest of us to figure out and use, and hopefully they can present there ideas better than I do.

Best wishes,
matt