Hello to All,

Thanks Codeboundfuture!, your explanation is great, plus your links also...and quotes from Tesla.

It happens very similar to your Baloon example...I will try to explain it the way I see it...with the Balloon...can I borrow it?...

Ok, we inflate our balloon, which is our magnetic field projection into the Aether Space. by doing this we are invoking, provoking the aether space, exciting it, stimulating it, aligning it in an atomic magnetic way.
As our pulse drops down to zero magnetic value at zero time...our balloon compresses to an exactly "Zero Space"...leaving in its previous volume-spectrum limits a very strong "Magnetic Vacuum" ...Then, the already aligned magnetically Aether space is practically "Dumped" into that balloon "used to be" space...and that occurs exactly in the center of our coils and the surrounding space to it.
Now, according to the simple magnetism laws that we all know...a North pole will attract a South...and viceversa... ...So the Aether around Our Balloon Space had originally an opposed magnetic structured configuration...Right?
So, when it takes our "Empty Magnetic Space" at Time Off...it is Opposed to our original "used to be" magnetic polarity config...therefore, it creates an opposed current flow to ours...

This process repeats itself "religiously" at every nanosecond of our On-Off Pulses...creating a flow of both currents.

Thanks a lot for the Balloon...Codeboundfuture!!
You could have it back I played enough!..

Regards to all


Ufopolitics

I am sorry UFO, but you really didn't understand my question fully. I will try to make a more detailed question. I will work with badly rounded numbers for simplicity.
I have one coil that is wound 24 fillar and all 24 strands are wired parallel. Lets further say that the 24 filar wind took 16 turns to equal the 400 turns of a single strand of my other coil. Now let's say we get X field strength with the 400 turns at 1 amp. OK and we all agree that a parallel connected wire has the same effect as a parallel resistor, because that is what you in effect have. Each wire will carry 24th of that in put 1 amp. So with the 24 filar coil you would have 1/24th amp turns instead of 1 amp turn from the single strand thus 1/24th the magnetic flux.
I think we can all agree to everything so far right? Now my question... tadaaa if (disregarding any effecienties [watts]) you have 1 amp traveling through each coil, does the 24 filar carrying 1 amp per strand (not 1/24th amp) create a stronger magnetic field than the single strand 400 turn coil carrying 1 amp?

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

Not to interject, again, but this time I think I can give you an answer.

Your 24-filar parallel wire simply has less resistance so more current can flow for a given voltage. One direct benefit of this is more magnetism with less copper. I think another thing that is useful but not necessarily used yet is the higher inductance to lower resistance means that that coil would oscillate faster (less resistance; impedance; for oscillations this would be it's stiffness) and more stored energy (magnetism, which for oscillations, can be thought of as its weight or more importantly, size).

Nothing special happens until we disconnect our source battery by shutting off the MOSFET, in which the voltage I believe jumps up just like a normal inductive spike (same rules apply; switch open speed, switch open resistance, conductor resistance, inductance, and the closed circuit resistance) due to 'infinite' resistance at switch opening but now due to free oscillations and diodes we can capture it (as unidirectional pulses, or impulse current; Tesla's "High frequency currents" is a very ambiguous phrase). The separation of our hot current (self destructing) and the magnetic resonance seem to have very important roles in the harvesting and use of the energy, as demonstrated.

Briefly touching on the balloon allegory again, the magnetism is our bubble or means of capture of the aether, so if we make it bigger and make it oscillate faster we get more voltage and faster oscillations, so more power on the cold side.

Less ohms, more amperage, more magnetism.
Less ohms, less impedance, faster oscillations.

Please excuse me Larry if I have repeated anything too much or missed the point even. I know you already understand most of this and I do not doubt better than I do. I just wanted to try to bring everything together for yourself, others and me.

Best wishes,
matt

Larry,

I understood your question perfectly well from the beginning...however, I will answer again from your new simplified question.

My answer is an ABSOLUTE NO, it will not make a difference 1/24 th Amp...versus 24 Amps...in that coil.

I will keep repeating to you, to the point of , please, begging you, to think FIRST on Magnetic Field Strength and NOT in the Electrical Field, Nor the Electrical Parameters Flow, point of view.

The Amperage, as you are looking at, you think that a higher amperage will produce a stronger magnetic field....Negative Larry, negative...it will not.
The Amperage works within an enclosed conducting loop to run loads within a loop...when it comes to Pulsed DC in Open Loops, it really is absolutely "nada", nothing...remember that linear amperage works based on demanded load requirements...example...You could install a 120V/65Watts CFL into the AC line that is 10-15 Amps Linear within the Sine-wave...This lamp amperage is 0.54 Amps...However, it will turn on without blowing out...it will only use 0.54 out of the AC Main...even being 15 Amps...understand my point here?

Now related to our coil...same example as CFL...you could add 1 amp for each strand of wire adding up to 24 Amps(which is an exaggeration of power, but, for sake of simplicity and calling your same numbers)...right?
Now the same exact thing that the CFL did...our coil will do...take ONLY the required amperage to produce that Magnetic Field...the rest is completely useless, it will stay there....it will do absolutely nothing. However, if you close that loop (stop pulsations) and feed coil linearly 24 amps with a very low 1 Ohm resistance...well, you know what will happen right?...Fourth of July Fire works galore!

I run my set-up all times with LiPo 36 Volts 6.3 Amps...I set an Amp meter on my input...and the most that coil takes is 0.6 to 0.8 amps, Bifilar 18 gauge, so it is actually down to approx to 0.3 to 0.4 per strand orf wire...and some extreme lighting like the HID Bulb I have a video on...it takes 1 to 1.5 amps out of the Six point three (6.3 Amps) batteries have, it has never, ever taken batteries to exhaustion nor close to full amperage capacity (you can not empty below 2.9 each cell on LiPo's or will ruin them, and they are very expensive!)...understand?

A stronger magnetic field does NOT require such a high amperage to evolve, to develop in a strong fashion...we could do it with low amps...low volts and very thick awg and multifilar coil, by pulsing at higher rates oscillations...at low resistance of one (1) ohm. Why try other ways?...if it works like this Larry..??

Run your 24 filar coil...use a 6-7 amps battery 36 volts...pulse it and get a piece of solid steel bar inside of its core, holding it with your hand...then come back here and tell me if it is not strong enough.

Another thing Larry, I love to answer to your posts, but really we are both wasting a precious time by making this long posts...and the thing is...I have done all this testings already...You have NOT, so, we can not argue from the same leverage of knowledge on this issue...and it makes me feel uncomfortable to be "playing a Guru role here" answering all your doubts, when you could very easy make this tests and find out by yourself, and your own equipment and then run your own conclusions... That is the purpose of most people here right?...Replicate and share results...some have success, some don't...but that's life...

And the worst part is that I know I could write here to exhaustion, trying to explain to you the bests ways I could...and still...I know...it will not satisfy your doubts...Am I right or wrong here Larry?

So, please make your tests first...then I will love to hear your opinions and discuss about them.


Regards Larry


Ufopolitics

P.D: Radiant Field interaction with our Hot field have a balancing point, that occurs at resonance levels of certain time working within same frequencies oscillations...that is the saturation of requirement for amps-volts according to load demand...after that, unless you unbalance or higher the load...amperage will remain seated at same point-levels.

I sincerely appreciate every ones patients and going over other info which I was able to glean some info from. I thank UFO and Matt for their time and effort, but I didn't see an answer to my question. The question lays in my last sentence. If I have not asked it right then please forgive me and I will research further. Matt thanks for the balloon analogy it did help, but I am still having a hard time wrapping my mind around the concept and how it can be used. I can only hope UFO can bring some light to it as we move into the utilization phase.

I am slowly gaining on the circuit. All you other guys have long since finished yours. I am constructing the heat sink now and got my 12V dc to dc converter yesterday. Need to do a coil... I am asking about the coil winding, because I cut the 24filar wires for my reciprocating electric motor a couple years ago and had hoped I could use them, but I have 2 and it would take 5+ to get over one ohm on them. Guess I will buy more wire and go for a quadfilar instead.

I have a 130V 3000W variac and everything needed to rectify and filter the output. Is there any reason I shouldn't use it for my 36V power supply?

Regards
Larry

Larry it definitively will require 1 Ohm Minimum, no choice.
A quadfilar will do perfect.
Why not use an AC Power source for 36 volts?
I will remind you that in replications everything must be very close to identical (you've said it yourself)...A Battery bank is best choice for this purposes because it shows consumption very clear, by attaching a meter to batt ends...a steady AC Source will not.

Regards


Ufopolitics

G'Day UFO
I was thinking through the night and came to the conclusion that when I soldered the connector for the 555timer I covered over the circuit where I had 2 jumpers drawn one Pin2 to pin6 and pin4 to pin8 Like I said on a previous post "it's probably the nut on the end of the soldering iron"

I will check out these things this afternoon

Thanks again regards

G'Day Larry
I have been experimenting/learning for the last 5 or so years and all that time I have found that using batteries for the power source has always been the best when playing around with Radiant energy it is like a gas and is everywhere it will even if things are tuned right will recharge the source battery if and when it is conditioned properly
Regards

Kogs
Get that thing gggooooiiiiiinnnngggggggggg.
Dana

My question was not about 1/24th amp versus 24 amps, but rather 1 amp versus 1 amp in 2 different coil configurations.

I do not wish you to repeat. When I got my degree it was extremely difficult for me to understand the conventional electronics, but I stayed with it and graduated with honors. Now to erase all thinking at my age and reprogram it is even more difficult. To me magnetic field and electric field have a correlation and I can't think of one with out the other so questions keep coming up. As far as amperage and number of turns is how you calculate magnetic field strength. So yes increasing amperage through a coil will increase the magnetic field as will increasing the number of turns. So where did I miss the open loop thing... all circuits and diagrams I have seen so far are closed loops. If you pulse a coil your input power will be diminished (related to pulse width) just like a pulsed voltage regulator this in my mind will decrease magnetic field in the primary.

Even running your 7hp motor?
I have experience with Lipos as I build and fly rc airplanes. I have great respect for them and it would worry me to use them as you do. I know you have had good luck using and I hope that continues otherwise you could burn down your shop. As for me Murphy is always riding my shoulder so if it can happen it will happen.

Not a good test for magnetic field strength. Even if it were I couldn't tell you if it were strong enough, basically because I don't know what strong enough is.

I know you have done it and I haven't this fact is exactly why I am asking you. If I had done it there wouldn't be any reason for me to ask now would there be?
I know... that is why I backed off before, but here I am again sorry.
If it is that hit and miss weather it can be replicated then it is going to be a problem spreading it, because many don't have the knowledge and tools I have and if I can't do it then well....

My questions have nothing to do with doubt, but about learning and clarification. Should I not be on here for a long period of time I either have found reason to doubt you or I am dead.
You do keep repeating mostly the same thing with each answer and have my answer somewhere in there or you completely miss my question so I have to ask it again. I am not saying you are trying to evade my question, but I guess it gets lost in your answer. So again I will try to back off and just watch for a while and try to get my circuits and coil finished. I don't want to make anyone mad at me.


You don't need to reply to any of this.
Regards
Larry

OK you are wight UFO I have a digital watt meter that tells consumption very accurately, but lead acid batteries are expensive (and I won't use lipos like you do even though I have lots of them I couldn't explain burning down our property to my wife) so maybe in a couple of months I might be able to buy 3 lead acid batteries. I try to use what I have if I can... you know poor people have poor ways. I could build a cement block bunker for them of course that would take up a lot of room on my bench. I'll look into making a smaller one out of fire bricks.

Regards
Larry

To UFO et al,

Got my MOSFETs and built everything back according to the circuit that I have posted in Photobucket (Bob French's album)...and it works.

I am planning on working with the CF tonight as the first attempt was zip.

My SSWC (which I will post) runs very well on 12v and charges like gangbusters using one MJL21194 and a coil of two wires, 150' each of 18AWG, about .8 ohms.

UFO,

Bedini's machines de-suphate and condition the batteries and turns them into OU devices increasing their capacity and chemical properties. They will accept a charge faster and deliver more longer. A 35Ah battery will become like a 65Ah battery. I assume that this technology with the MOSFETs will probably do the same, as we are still hitting the batteries with radiant spikes. Do you know if the batteries are being conditioned, or not?

Lov'n it,

Bob

Larry
Money or the lack of it has nothibg to do with it. Bob is living in a plywood 8x20 foot box covered with cement. No power, wood heat, no gas or running water.I also can not just go out and buy wire whenever I want. Others are living in a travel trailer, ect. But all of us know the answer to your question. Why. Because when we had your question, we took anything appart we could get our hands on for some wire and we did what UFO asked....WE DID THE TESTS. One picture is a thousand words and in this case two or three thousand words. Make a scale (small) coil out of anything in the format that you are asking and measure it. We have all done this and why do you think you can learn this without doing the tests????? I have been in other groups on other projects that if someone asked what you did....no one would respond because you want us to do the work and hand you the report. I feel your education is not helping you at all and it is not helping us also. It takes about three hours to make this circuit and a coil. You have spent much more on questioning every thing all the way thru. Just do it. This is how you will get your answers. Test you question on a sloppy coil using scrap wire the way we have all learned this.
Dana I have said what I wanted to and will not respond to you about this again. Just relax...

Hey Larry,

I think you're talking about this.
The open circuit is between our source charge (batteries) and our collector coils, the MOSFETs go open-switch and the current is forced to stop flowing due to the diodes blocking the flow of our hot current from entering the cold side, so like normal when a switch opens in a circuit containing inductors and flowing current the voltage spikes to make up for it.

Although we don't have Tesla's genius, we do have some of the stuff he left behind for us to figure out. Oh, and we have MOSFETS and diodes so we are not forced to be as clever nor daring as Mr. Tesla.

Hope this helps.
Best wishes,
matt

I was riding my bicycle the other day when I remembered Mu-metal, and maybe this is the wrong direction but it's interesting stuff. It has an extremely high magnetic permeability [20,000u - 50,000u].

Here is a magnetic permeability chart Permeability (electromagnetism) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Here is the Wikipedia article Mu-metal - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. I noticed it mentioned that it has a crystalline structure that is done in a special annealing process that uses hydrogen for the atmosphere (probably means little to us other than don't break it ).

You can find it in computer hard drives, from all the way back before the 80's, the seeking arm is based into it (on the side of the arms bearings where the arm is not completely over the disk).

I'd like to know what some of you think or maybe you could try it, I'll be getting to it myself soon, I will let you know.

Best wishes,
matt

LEARNING and UNDERSTANDING are not the same thing. Many here are building circuits because thay LEARNED how to do it. Untill you build it and play with it for a while, without changing it, you will not truely UNDERSTAND how it works. It is thru finding out why it does not work and going over everything again and again, as well as checking every item in the circuit off on another diagram as you go, that you begin the UNDERSTANDING. Then when you UNDERSTAND how it works, build another one and change that one, not the first one. Go slow, take notes and do every test you can at each level. It is thru UNDERSTANDING your circuit and going over your notes that you will be able to modify and improve what you have. When you put everything you have into one build and change it, when it goes up in smoke you will be at the begining and starting over again. That is stress----- as you now have nothing and no notes to get back on track. Keep up the good work guys.
Dana

Well Dana I guess I could stop spending my money to fight the cancer that is trying to take my life and put my money in building this instead and the days that I have trouble doing anything I could just ignore the pain and just do it. Just ignore the pain so I can keep up and not bother anyone. I don't have all the time left you are talking about. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Larry

G'Day UFO
Thanks for your comments
The regulator with 36v actually outputs 12.4 volts I was testing my circuit using a very small SLAB 12v sitting at 12.95v
the diodes I used were too large I realised when someone else pointed it out some time ago but as it worked I left it alone.

On the Oscillator I had the larger diodes as I presumed that they were necessary as they were the only ones on your original circuit for the Regulator and oscillator and there was much discussion as to the fast Diodes and therefore I used them.

I see now that I was not understanding properly.
even so now I have after including the 2 Jumpers I stupidly left out
the oscillator while still using the small 12v to test with gives me from .0?% to 99?% duty cycle

I now ask you does it matter if I leave the larger diodes in place, IF NOT I will replace them if necessary.

Tomorrow I will test with the 36v and if OK will connect up the mosfets,coil and the Bulb to see how well it works
As I understand the Radient comes best with the shortest ON time( the smallest Duty Cycle)
So Please should I start with the duty cycle at 50% or greater?

Kindest Regards

Excellent!!
Your Oscillator will work with those diodes...however, the 1N4148 are designed for that job Ian, so the heavy rectifiers are faster, but they will not "filter" (will leak small reverse currents) like a signal diode never, but the only thing that could be wrong in your circuit (due to not putting the signal diodes) would be a bit of a coarser signal when tuning the Pot to Hi-Lo frequencies...meaning, it may not render a clean signal ...but it will not cause any dramatic or severe damage to anything...except a "noise" in the switching...

You could just use a small piece of cable and jump it through the outer contacts above the board, and not take the whole socket and remove soldering off...easier...
Great!!

Run a test without removing them, observe the behavior of output and lamp...basically at steady high frequencies(600-800)...and watch it does not keep blinking but a steady illumination, and Hertz do not vary too much.

What do you mean by run a test with the 36V "without" mosfets??!!, I guess you are referring to check low frequency signal output from gates connection (leg3 of 555)?


Yes that is correct, 50% duty cycle is fine...but the Pot to increase frequency must be at highest resistance...meaning, zero hertz at output then dialing slow...very slow up.


Regards and good testing Ian


Ufopolitics

Hello Larry,

Then do the test with your power source Larry...and check the consumption and input, that is great you have that meter!
So please, do not wait for two months !!

I am not afraid of LiPo's Larry...I have run them to a point of heating up and swelling like balloons ...hahaha...however, nothing happened so far as getting on fire or exploding, I have also taken them apart, take the bad cells off and make up a new set by exchanging cells from other battery...and soldering with a 75 Watt soldering iron I have for those purposes. ..At the Hobby Shop where I buy them, they offer me to get one of those "explosion proof" bags...I never use them...so they call me "LiPo Dare Devil"...

But will tell you something ...they are the best batteries to run tests with this set-up...Oh!...and motors...You know they only last (under typical conditions) 10-15 minutes when running any given R/C Brushed or Brushless Motor right?...Well, I got them to run for long hours Larry...and not going below factory spec's per cell (below 2.9V) at all...

By the way Larry...I call "Open Loop Circuit" to any given circuit that "switches on-off" or opens its contacts at any given time during operation...Hot Electricity flows only in closed circuits. I know that Larry...However, Radiant do not require closed circuits...it works on just one connection contact...and bulb lights up...
Relating to Motors-Generators we know the "All Closed Loop Windings"...or Symmetrical, like Lap winding...short circuit motors, Closed Loop Machines...they are at "all times" closed...not in mine Larry...and they just need to open for a few seconds...that's all we need...

Regards


Ufopolitics

Now I finished my update for my PWM generator / FET driver. Find the update on dropbox.
This is all I can advice up to now. Unfortunately one document can not forward the whole science reagrding this matter. But I am sure the essentials can be understood and are suffitient for building successful replications.
As I am very restricted in free time I will focus from now on to get my setup ready for experiments.

If you have a functioning unit - DON'T jump to this one. Maybe it will be of use for further setups being built from new.

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

JohnStone
This is truely a good day. You have given us the most excellent and controlable and repairable PWM set up one could hope for. Thank you soooo much. Another reason it is a good day is that Kogs should be hitting the start button on his circuit.
I will make the 12 volt changes at A and D as well as Item E3.
Another reason it is a good day is Bob has some info on the carbon(CF). We also have a lot of questions to be ironed out.

Just added some minor changes to the recent doc.

I feel sorry if I hear that some of you are seriously restricted in funds and components. But I feel happy if I see that YOU being affected get things running - that's real SMARTNESS!

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

To all
Stay tuned because within two hours, Bob is reporting with pictures on our setup using .010ma input and 103 volts out. Much more to do as every success brings many more questions. In case you are wondering what the delay is, he must drive 15 or so miles into town and sit in the parking lot at walmart to use the wifi to send and recieve emails. What a guy.
Dana

UFO,

Last night I decided to build a second coil with CF (carbon fiber) for testing as a secondary coil. I have posted pictures on Photobucket (Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket) the following is what I can remember at this moment.

The first attempt failed (I now believe because it was too far out from the center of the core). I used a spool w/ a 3" hole in the center around which I wound a 2" wide insulated CF tape. Around that I wound four 300' strands of 19AWG copper magnet wire, Litzed, in parallel (all beginnings together, all ends together) connected to the UFO circuit using 4 MOSFETs. The CF coil was not connected to the circuit. The idea was to simply harvest Radiant Energy with the CF coil as a secondary. Nada.

So this time I built a CF coil that was about 2" in diameter having 7 "wires", 15' in length, of 1k tow (that's a 1000 fiber strand). I set this coil inside the one described above and hooked the copper coil to a UFO circuit with two K2837 MOSFETs on my combined circuit. The CF coil I attached to different loads during the test period.

With no results at first and measuring very little voltage in the CF coil, I eventually placed NTE576 diodes on the CF coil leads and bingo! 47v! while the ammeter showed almost no draw on the 24v Primary. (Unfortunately I have not yet received my new meters, having burnt up 3 in two days, so I was using a 5A meter.) The draw was well under 100mA, around 10-25mA probably. I had a huge Neon bulb (1.5" dia. bulb) that I could never light, but it did light on the circuit Output at lower levels so I used it to help indicate the strength of the normal circuit Output.

I found a NE-2 Neon would light if placed across the CF coil, and brightened if I touched it (grounding it). So I hooked one leg of the NE-2 to a lead from the CF coil and one to a free-standing coil...and it lit well! Then I added the other lead from the CF coil and it brightened a little more! This is freaking me out at this point. I dropped the grounding lead and it bounced off the huge Neon and I saw a little flash...so I touched the grounding lead to various places and found that if I connected it to the Neg. of the Output, BOTH the NE-2 and the huge Neon got much brighter!!! We're on to something here folks. I've got both CF coil leads going to one leg of the NE-2 and the other leg going to the Output Neg. and everything likes it.

Most of this testing was taking place with less than 100mA draw. I found that a maximum CF coil voltage of 122-127v was obtained using just under 200mA of 24v. I did see flashes of 130v or more, but nothing that I could reproduce. Going much above 200mA the draw would jump suddenly to 5A and I don't know what voltage this produced as I was more concerned with getting it down so a to not let the smoke out of anything.

In the pics, you may notice that the CF coil is leaning off to one side. I found that this is where it produces the best. It also did well very near the center, but after repeated attempts, this other spot did best. As you said, the Cold Energy is in the center and Dana (my comrade in arms) pointed out that Romero placed magnets off-center on his coils.

All in all, for a second try, I think we've done well...indeed. And we're having fun.

Bob

Hello Bob!!


Great testing man!!

Yes the Carbon Fiber has very "unusual" properties when it comes to Radiant...
I have also noticed that adding a ground will make it stronger, You've got Her in Bob...Radiant could only use one terminal to flow energy into a Neon...or a CFL...
Now, one thing I noticed on your pictures is that the CF Coil inside is too narrow width compared to the Primary you have...I tell you that the closer secondary could be to the inner walls of your primary...the better results you will get out. When you lean it on one side it was getting closer to a partial side of inner wall...that is why you've got better output there...so imagine every area closer to primary inner walls...

The other thing you could try is making a small spark gap...with a couple of carbon brushes from an old motor...sharpen the ends to a finer point...secure them isolated and attach both ends of secondary to them...then get a neon just close to its space..and watch it glow in your hands.Is a nice tests.

I am very glad you got the oscillator going again!!,...Great news man!!

Yes, we will get there soon Bob!!

Warm regards friend!


Ufopolitics

UFO

Both Bob and I were waiting, biteing our nails, to here from you. So I have a lot more carbon and heat shrink comming and will try my vaccume trick on them to get them together faster. You are saying to just fit the outside of secondary within primary core giving more direct contact, and do you have any suggestions with the carbon length,number of wires ect. I can think that as in a copper coil the same type of design would apply, but as the carbon takes hours and hours to stuff into the covering, any best quess would be helpful to start with. The rough cost per 100 foot of carbon in heat shrink is 21.60$. Again, we will both rebuild our coils to the exact pattern and length you suggest. Bob is such an excitable person, he keeps calling me and saying , guess what, guess what, guess what. I was checking out conductave epoxy, boy that stuff is not given away. Any suggestion about termination methods. I thought that a copper heavy wire with the tow rapped around and conduction epoxied in place???
Also is there any thought that if we made a larger primary with a larger core diameter, and then having more surface to react with a larger secondauy might be cool. We have many new questions and this week will be full of testing. Thanks for all your advanced direction.
Dana

Hi All
I have made what I would call carbon fiber magnet wire. It is round and has an insulated coating. (not shrink tube). I will test it to make sure it works before I post any more about it except it's cost will be (if it works) around $25 for 4500 feet of 2K size, but will be labor intensive unless I can come up with a way to mass produce it.

Later
Larry

UFO
It seems that using the tape style of 2" carbon (which has its own covering) can be rolled over the core like a traditional wind and then the copper primary can be rolled on next which brings them even closer togeather. This works the same as long as the diodes are in place. One funny thing is that if you set up the coil that way, putting the intercore coil in does nothing.
Dana

Hi all,

I had a strange fault, my LM350 regulator has exploded unexplained. I've used it for several days and today "boum". Occurred when the circuit was adjusted and changed at low frequency. Only 24v input. Luckily I put a zener protection, has made its mission.
if it was the radiant ... I was scared

The circuit repaired:



@JohnStone
Excellent work and good documentation. A doubt:
What is the difference between the 555-8ma and a specific mosfet driver?

@Bob,Dana
I'm glad that the circuit is already runing.
What was the problem in the circuit?

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro