Matt,

That video was to "Show Off", to attract viewers into the channel, must people are not knowledgeable of High Frequency-High Volts Low Amps...They compare with 120V AC 60 Hz, High Amperage(20-30A), and that they know it will shock you and(or) kill you, if you get your hands on water like I did .
So, let's get my previous video before coming here, behind, and then move forward. So it is clear I was not trying to use that video to impress you...or others here.

Now:

Yes I do have a DSO RIGOL 50MHz there, and yes the signal is what am getting, did you noticed how it deflects, and I adjust it?...however I was pulsing with another type of wave signal I was trying, which is just a Dual P and N Channel in Anti-phase, and that I was planning to disclose after we get this issues resolved with the simple N-Chanel (like the one on video) and in my diagrams here, I like to go from simple to complicated approaches...I do not like to start with a circuit full of components, then start explaining each by each and confusing everyone...so, yes it is the right signal, but Dual, both channels.

"how much shows up at the load...Shows what?...Voltage, Amperage, Frequency?
Ok the Scope showing waves...that is clear, however...Why don't you do something to help me here, here is the model number of DSO[DS1052E/ 2CH 50 MHz 1GSa/s] , go online check manual and tell me the exact set up you want on it...I think that's a better way.

I have told you before, kind of numb, and a very light tingling or cramp feeling, but no big deal.
However, if I turn on the Volume to almost blow bulb at very High Voltages...then I feel it more, but same sensation..in the video it actually did not shock me...but got me by surprise...it never did it before..but then I realized it does it in greater scale when both hands were in water at same time..
I am just guessing that I was being "bridged" by her, through both arms. But it was a bit higher than this one because I was lighting up at Higher frequency...and I have notice it increases when I turn in the neon blue lamps I installed for viewing meters better in videos, and also looked nicer...

Now there is something I just found out...when converting this videos and make me go back and stretch them in that particular frames...it is something weird.

After I turned off the light, right after there is a green pulse, just one(frame) so play back normal barely see it, but I kept stretching...and also by seq of 4-5 pictures...I noticed, and it is clear at slow motion...Before the green flash shows, I can see my cam capture a Spectrum of violet light, like a light cloud...around where coil and lamp are...but seems moving toward center, this is 1-2 frames,and as soon as is gone the green light strobe comes...this happens so synchronized, that have to go really slow...but in this video, if using a good editor, could be also done. I am uploading this also...but is longer...so takes time.

Any way, am glad You 'like' my Radiant Now'...

Regards

Hi folks, Hi ufo, ah ok, i kind of guessed you were using a 555 timer, i have that, could you give any frequencies or pulse widths you are using and possible coil details, thanks.
oh is this the green effect you are speaking of.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us
peace love light
tyson

Ufopolitics, I'm glad you came back. If you haven't been on energy forums for many years like some people here you probably haven't seen some of what has gone down here and other places. And this may help you understand why some things seem a little less than polite at times. There have been hundreds of people show up here and other forums out of the blue that say or think they have a free energy device or overunity device. Some have been outright fakes, some have been incorrect measurements and some have been just plain crazy stuff. Some have probably been done by the PTB to discourage everyone.

I think most everyone here is hoping to find a source of energy to power their homes or cars or even a small appliance. So after so many disappointments, disillusion and outright trickery there tends to be a somewhat skeptical nature when someone shows up that no one knows. We all just want to know how it works and believe that it really is the thing we have all been wanting. So many will ask questions and even find facts presented hard to believe and more questions will be asked. Just like UFO's. I firmly believe some are real ET presences but when I have had personal contact with people who say they saw one or were abducted by one I ask a lot of questions to rule out all the things that might fool some one into thinking they saw a real alien craft. That is to say I want to rule out all the things that might trick people so that I will know they saw the real thing and so I will feel I have further proof of their existence.

Matt on here is a great builder and experimenter. He's been around the block more than once So I believe he may be asking the more difficult questions with some healthy skepticism so that others here with less knowledge and experience don't get fooled again. I can't really speak for him but it's just my guess that may be part of the nature of the questions.

Many years ago I once was helping a well known researcher set up a radiant energy demo at an energy conference. The demo had a clear glass tungsten light bulb as a load (about 60 watts IIRC). When it was lit up he had me put a jumper wire directly across the contacts to the bulb. In normal circumstances that would of course cause the light to go out or go very dim. In this case though it became a lot brighter. I was told that it was because it was being powered by radiant or cold electricity. Have you ever seen this effect with your setup?

__________________
There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

RADIANT_ ENERGY_ULTRAVIOLET_SPECTRUM_GREEN_STROBE - YouTube

This is a sequence I noticed when converting formats on video today...

In this video is shown clearly, the Collapsing Radiant Energy Field, seen as an opaque transparent cloud, right above the Electromagnetic Field Radiation Vortex Generated by the Coil, it appears for just one frame, rated at a speed of approximately 30 Fps...In the following frame of this capture, a Strobe Flash of a light green color shows right at center of Light Bulb Spiral, and it also last for one frame of the sequenced images.
I had to stretch it to the Maximum limits of software in order to be seen accordingly.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hi ufopolitics, Never mind, it's ok. I would have thought that being a
somewhat scientific field we are engaged in the best way to present things
would be to show something then say, look at this, this is what I've done this
is what I think, this is why and what do you guys think. Then as well, if
people ask some valid questions they could be answered.

Your initial post is almost one big block of confusing text. To tell the truth I
am still not sure what it is you are actually trying to say in that first post.

Just coming along and declaring this and that is all well and good, and if you
want to just avoid any questions you don't want to answer then fair enough.

The questions I asked were fairly simple and worded well enough. Refusing to
answer a couple of questions is offensive enough to me to not want to post
anymore in the thread anyway.

Have fun not answering any questions.

If you don't want to clear up the definitions of the terms you use then I can
only assume you don't want people to understand what you are doing. To tell
the truth I am still not sure what it is you are actually saying you can do or
are doing. Fair enough. I can live with that.

Cheers.

__________________
First Imagine it. Then Build it.

Ufopolitics,

Great to see you here. I was worried you would not come back. If I might make a suggestion. If you will give us all something to build. Be as specific as you can about what it is we are to build. If it needs a coil, how many turns of what kind of wire, what diodes, etc. You have a LOT of new people here who would love to build, but really are lost. Especially since your first posted diagrams have disappeared, and you indicated that there was something incorrect in them anyway. If it is the circuit at post #20 that we should build (Which Vtech was kind enough to update) just say the word. BUT if it IS...
1.The easiest thing for EVERYBODY is to number the parts on that drawing and then give the information or specs for each part. Then people can figure out what they are doing.
2. There are obvious things missing from that drawing. How do we supply power to it? Just a standard 12 volt battery, or with a frequency generator set at some specific frequency? I know you mentioned a 555 timer somewhere in the postings. Dd we need one? If so, how is it connected into the circuit? It has 8 pins. Which one do we connect what to? And what will we use it for. (I know the answer to some of these questions, so I hope you understand what I am trying to do here, besides sound like I know noting about anything.)
3. What are we to look FOR when we have the circuit up and running. In other words, what test do we run to determine if we have it correct?

The more simplistic the task you assign us, the less confusion and the fewer questions that will waste your time. Then we can move rapidly forward to wherever it is you want to take us. But let's get a bunch of people with the basic circuit completed on their bench. Then a BUNCH of people will be able to answer the basic questions that come up instead of only you, and you having to respond to each new person that comes aboard. I hope that makes some kind of sense. When I first came here I did not know a resistor from a transistor, and I KNOW there are other people here who are in that same boat, but who would LOVE to build something if they could see how to do it. If you build it step by step and video it, you answer ALL those questions and many more.

David

__________________
Talent hits a target no one else can hit; Genius hits a target no one else can see. - Arthur Schopenhauer
Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened' General D.Eisenhower
The world we have created is a product of our thinking. It cannot be changed without changing our thinking. Albert Einstein
I aim to misbehave. - Malcolm Reynolds

PLEASE NOTE MISSING LINE BETWEEN D3 AND 12 V MOVISTOR!!...IT GOES TO GROUND

I will be posting here a relation of Components values soon, see if you could zoom and see in Pic Ok.

COIL 1: Coil I used in the latest video, is a solid steel core, @3 Inches in Diameter.
I wrapped 120 T of Gauge 18 X 3 Layers (I winded this way for purposes of Lab work), to test Inductance between them and best options as Primary-Secondary as Input.

COIL 2: Guys, don't sweat over the Coil as of yet, My best experiment was with a Plastic new Roll of Coil from Factory 16 Gauge just adding diodes at ends.
Actually that was the best test to prove Opposed Magnetic field (Radiant) was higher strength than Original, when it turned the Rare Earth Magnet.
Remember, you have a Dialer to tune your right frequency,so it is adjustable to your coil, of course use common sense and calculate Resistance, Volts and Amps...according to Input .

My Input: Lithium Polymers Pack of 3 X 11. 6 aprox= Fully charged to 36V
2100 MiliAmps Each X3 =6.3A




http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

Hi UFO
I'm very glad to see this thread -really looking forward to seeing more of your work and trying a few things when I can.
Bob

ufopolitics,

Thanks for the circuit, nicely laid out and mostly clear.
I was able to see most of the compontents but D1-D3 look like 4005 not sure
but also could be 4007 which is more common. Also there are two C3's one is
1uf and the second is 0.01 Tantalum cap.

I did a coil calculation on the first coil with 18 awg. at 3 inch's in dia. and 1.7
long came out as, 3 layers@120 turns 40 turns per layer 3.25 outside dia.
and 96.81 feet long. 3 inch Dia. thats a good size chunk of steel.

I though I was close to something simalar I had been working on, so I wanted to try the water test.
No luck, my bulb stayed lit, but very dimly. I did not try the finger test. yet.

Mark P

Hey Bob thanks,

I am trying my best to perform in a timely basis...
Will like you to give it a try..I believe it is a very easy circuit to start with, simple and it does the job...later we could add a lot of enhancements to it...it needs it!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Thanks for posting the very detailed and well illustrated circuit Ufopolitics. I can read all the components easily enough and I am familiar enough with all the components (and even have most) but I have a question that maybe even some one else can answer as I'm not really up to speed on some of this. I see the input is 36 volts from your Li-Poly's (roughly 225 watts available when fully charged?) but I can't tell where the output is to be taken from. Are the Drains from all the Mosfets tied together on the chassis which then has a single wire coming off of it as shown in brown on the upper right side of the picture? Maybe I've answered my own question if that's the output? I'm assuming the spot marked +12V is just a reference that the LM317 voltage regulator is set to output 12 volts?

__________________
There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

Hey Mark,

What Bulb are U using?

D1,D2,D3 ARE 4005, However MUST FAMILY OF 4000 will do the job, typical gate diodes.
Now the ones between legs of 555> 7,6 and 5 are 4148, they are signal diodes...germanium I believe.
Now there is a 12 Volt Movistor parallel to D3, for protection.

OH SHUT!!...Just saw a line missing right there!!from D3 and Movistor should go to Ground!!...it is not doing nothing like that!!

Sorry because I do not have completed the part list, there I explain better...
The 1 uF, you could also use a 0.01 and see what happens related to wave

Be back

PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AT LINE MISSING IN BETWEEN D3 and 12 V MOVISTOR
IT SHOULD GO TO GROUND!!

D3 and MOVISTOR are in parallel, so their back common end line should go Negative!!

Sorry about that!

ufo,
I was using a Feit BPA15/CL/LED 120v bulb, but I also have some Helical 20w
simailar to what you are using. I may try them tomorrow, I dont think that my
freq.s are high enough for RE yet, but I did put the scope on it and have some nice looking waves.
Ive closed up shop for the night, but I will dig out my freq. counter and see
a little better of what's going on. I have all the components to put your circuit together but not the VR 250K??
Not sure what voltage reg. that is?
Were your transistors bias matched?
Mark P.

Ufo,
Like this...
Mark P

Attached Thumbnails

 

I might be wrong but I was assuming the VR250k is a variable resistor or center tapped POT of 250k.

I think the circuit you drew is what he intended although I would have probably drawn it like this

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

Yes, You may be right there mate, I think he did mention variable res.

As far as the circuit, that works just as well, but I may run this thru the
CNC machine and I wont be cutting over existing traces..

Mark P

Ufopolitics,
I am not sure but the coil you have in this video "post #89" is fairly small, compaired
to the description of the coil you mentioned yesterday.

COIL 1: Coil I used in the latest video, is a solid steel core, @3 Inches in Diameter.

I want to get this replication as close to yours as I can, because if I get it
wrong it may not react the same as your set up.
Mark P

I think that may be the pot that we see towards the end of this video he posted earlier. Have a close look towards the end as he shows the circuitry.

SKIN_EFFECT_RADIANT_ENERGY_COLD_ELECTRICITY - YouTube

Good morning EWIZARD!

First, I wanted to thank you for Your very kind previous message, I could feel your warmth and your joy!
While I understand everything you explained, and also agree with you completely...
Related to the circuit on Osc:
Yes, I would say not practically...but exactly! you had answer that question.
The Heat Sink attached to the body of MOSFETS, I add later a Copper bar for drain Connector. I cut the center legs off the Mosfets.

I used an Aluminum channel as sink-chassis-Drain Out (posting some pic's here of oscillator opened) that I drill holes then make the thread for bolts to hold the MOSFET's..

Yes the 12V is exactly that, a reference to show my regulated Input to 555
Nice talking to you!
Regards

Ufopolitics

Yes it is a Centered tap Potentiometer

Hey R12003!!

Yes, it is somewhere around 2.0 Inches in real core (where wire goes on)
I was lead measuring by mind, and the upper part...You know the saying...the Males tend to increase the size by a couple of inches...

It is actually a Dolly (That's what its called) used by Body men, called also tack of steel, to back metal when straightening with hammer..
Like I said before, the core could vary, you could adjust the output to it and it will fill the wires..to the point of starting creating the 'invoke' of RE.

Hi folks, Hi ufo, thanks for sharing more information.
Body dollie like from this think in lower left corner of picture, i read these are made from special alloys.
Panel Beating Set 7pc Drop-Forged - Panel & Trim Tools Bodyshop Tools
Have you ever tried ferrite cores or do you think solid steel is better.
I know Robert Adams at some point mentioned solid iron cores were his preferred choice for cold current, i think.
peace love light
tyson

Hello Farmhand!

I understand you completely, and I agree with you, My approach in my first post was too long, and I did not use an organized manner to display all this info, that has come to me as a rush, downloaded in a very brief term of time, while I was involved in a different field of dynamo-electric machines.

I tried in my first post to best describe , first, about myself a bit, what I have been involved for the past years, so you guys could know about me...Then You are right , I tried rushing all my desires and my findings to openly explain about something that, up to this point, I do not understand it completely, however, I have gathered together tons of alternative related literature...I did wrote a big block of text, and mentioning about motors-generators and behaviors was a confusing issue to get to the point where I wanted to reach.

At this point I have abandoned completely my motors-generator project, just to dedicate the time and attention that my discovery requires, and trying my best to deliver as clear as possible to others so they could try to replicate my set-up properly.

It will give me A great satisfaction to hear at least from one of you, that He had tried, and it works wonderful!

And I want you to understand that, the same urge you guys have trying to find answers to things that you do not understand..and that you have been searching for a while long, I have also same desires to download to you all my findings and my conclusions in great detail..

And in the same way that you will find joy by finding out it works great and that , yes, we got it...
I will also will find a great release , that I have been able to fulfill my task, my duty, by channeling properly all I have found, researched and develop to all of you.

I could relate as the relation between Source-Drain in Electronics...Give, Provide, Source and ...in the other end of the conductor...that could be thousands of miles away...a right Absorb, a proper Consumption, an accurate Sink had taken place...Then We All could then start analyzing this Phenomena all together, or may be by Groups aligned at different points of our planet...discerning every single behavior as everyone, I know, will be trying his best to achieve.


This discovery is deeply controversial, it defies the laws and behaviors that we all had been thought for generations, over a long period of time, so I understand it is very difficult to 'see' beyond the limitations we have acquired for so long.

I could take easy, a very long series of pages, in order to fully disclose to all of you here, how, I got here...- and that is, only from "the technical side of the Coin"-...It was a long road traveling by walking slowly....that took me years of long days and long nights, and when I finally landed to see what "it was"...I could not do nothing else but laugh...laugh to myself...deep inside, while my mind was traveling so fast over all the flashes in our history...all the articles and books I have read, all videos I have seen...all the pain we have had for so long trying to thrive...then I stop laughing...then I felt a very deep sadness inside my heart.

But , Now, WE, better than never before, must get all together on this...and help each others , to create such a rush, such a force....that no one on this Universe could stop.






Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello Skywatcher!!

You surprised me with that Bulb in green picture...at first I said..."This looks awfully like my set-up!...but I don't recall taking that picture?..

Don't "sweat" over the Core, the Steel Core like this, works, but then later on, I found it works better on just a new, ten pounds, unpacked wire spool 16 Gauge made of plastic...with this same set up and circuits.

I have observed , since the constant and so fast changes in Flux directions,(on longer times of operation) it creates somehow an increase in the temperature of the steel core, however, not in the wire. That leads me to think that over time, the steel molecules suffer great stress, getting the metal in somehow a "fatigue"...therefore this solid chunk of steel works fairly good over time, since it weights pretty good, so it is not a piece of cake to "disturb it.. .

My first test, I did it, in an empty rotor core of a 12 pole laminated steel from a 12V Gas Pump small motor, however, winding it not like motors go...but in a way that the coil keeps same centered direction.

I am in the process of creating, first on 3D Model, then in Real Model, a pretty good type of structure that best fits the requirements of this type of Systems.

To my concepts, it would be better if there is a Hollow center. (Air Core) And the Center Core Material, Where Main Coil wire goes, being of some sort of strong plastic, Mica or composite, that attaches to a Heat Sink piece within. In a Cylindrical shape.
Further On, I believe we need to offer a good steel path for the Flux to travel outside this center core...on both Poles, North-South, where the Magnetic Fields Radiates its Spectrum. and it doesn't need to be of any solid structure...but just made of fine strong lines defining North-South Field-Lines configuring a similar form of a Toroid Volume.

Anyways...my desires to communicate with you are so big...that I go beyond your question-doubts-concerns...and may end by confusing you even more...so, for now..just don't sweat over the Core.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hello Ufopolitics & All,
Due to some issues I couldn't participate in the past day but I managed to learn a bit about Mosfet and have this first circuit redone with proper diodes and N channel Mosfet. I could not find thicker wire yet (I'm not fully unpacked after last moving) but I tried one component salvaged from some state of the art power control unit which I got from scrap yard couple years ago. It consist of three toroid chokes in series, wound with #14 wire. I believe that cores are made from iron powder (they're black).
I got 9W light going right away and I was able to further reduce input A by raising a bit frequency. I got down to 160mA at 12V. The only warm spot is the base of CFL, while transistor remains cold (no heatsink). I had few ideas about different oscillators before I saw one posted by Ufopolitics which looks just fine
I'll try to find the rest of required parts. For now I just use variable signal generator as a trigger.

Ufopolitics,I'm glad you have decided to come back.

I also updated last schematics so the copper traces are not crossing. Otherwise, one would have to make a jumper. Hope you don't mind.



Thanks
Vtech

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

Hi folks, Hi ufo, thanks for sharing the latest video.
I'm using an air-core right now anyway, so not concerned about cores yet.
Though I do notice that when i try and power a cfl like you are showing with a 555 timer, 24 volts and my 5 strand coil using 2 transistors, 2 - 24awg. strands per transistor, using the diodes on both coil legs, that it takes much tuning to get the coil resonate or vibrate properly with the cfl inside circuitry.
What happens when using the 555 timer, the neons across my transistors glow fairly brightly.
Though when I use a joule thief variant circuit with my 5 strand coil, 24 volts input, the neons are not lit at all and the cfl is very bright and the transistors stay cool.
My guess is, the joule thief variant circuit is automatically matching its vibration to the cfl circuitry for best performance.
Just offering my experimental observation comparing the different pulsing methods.
peace love light
tyson

Hello Skywatcher,

My pleasure,

Ok, Sky, let me see if I understand what you are saying...

"I'm using an air-core right now anyway, so not concerned about cores yet.
Though I do notice that when i try and power a cfl like you are showing with a 555 timer, 24 volts and my 5 strand coil using 2 transistors, 2 - 24awg. strands per transistor, using the diodes on both coil legs, that it takes much tuning to get the coil resonate or vibrate properly with the cfl inside circuitry. ."

I do not get it, really...because "it takes too much to tuning to get the Coil resonate"
You are changing what of my circuit?...or you are just adding a joule Thieve...without moving anything else?

When writing, please, be a bit more explicit...

Did you move the Diodes positioning at all according to my diagram, and related to the Coil?

You mentioned what had happened after you put the JT, but not describe what happened before?

Did you take any readings with my "AS IS" Original circuit at ALL?

Ok, here the point is not to start adding nor taking off anything, till you get it working fine, AND have taken measurements properly...otherwise we will be here another 185 years...

I mean Sky, just because it bothers to 'dial' a bit more...No, please don't. is Not the idea here.

I never used any joule arrangement there, my transistors run super cold...
Number one, Sky, you are using just two transistors...what specs?are they fast switchers, RDsOn?

See guys...Ok...I know what am gonna do...just write an answer post to all..


Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hello to ALL,

Ok, I had spent hours preparing diagrams and notes and uploading photos here...
And all this effort was done in order to follow a duplication of my circuit..
And that means to build it AS IS, maybe playing a bit here or there with the tank circuit of 555, that's where you made adjustments to the square wave.

This is a simple Astable Operation of a T555, but modified a bit. So if anyone does not know about this op...there are many sites dedicated just to playing with waves, and the resonating part of 555, which is the two resistors and Pot, at legs 5,6,7...and the 001 Capacitor to ground...that's it.

If having problem with tuning...it could be the Coil was not done, either with enough turns, improper wire, etc...or something else was not ok.

So, I recommend to put in the Tank instead of the 1K resistors, replace them by two 10K Trimmers , before soldering set a mark (I do it with fine markers, of different colors) At 1K on wiper and body, so you do not get lost , also try different Cap sizes .


And I tell You why...Here, the Idea is to test FIRST, my original circuit AS IS...and The Two Diodes is the WAY I made a special diagram, very neat, nice colors to be understood well,

The main deal here, and the cause of all the arguments...is to replicate my design, that you ALL have seen working, then ...
Come back here and tell Us your readings

I want readings BEFORE TWO DIODES OF:

1-Voltage
2-Amperes
3-Hertz
4-Oscilloscope Signals Recordings

I want Readings AFTER TWO DIODES OF:

1-Voltage
2-Amperes
3-Hertz
4-Oscilloscope Signals Recordings

I want readings before Battery connected of Voltage and Mark Start Time
of Test, Then after finishing the test, mark time and take readings again.

It is very important to have at ALL TIMES Meters on this, including one at Battery Terminals, and tell you why.

If you are going Driving the Pot "Blindly" (no gauges, no readings On) and pass to a too high stage...You are gonna fry everything there...
Including the Coil...

I do not know if you read my post with Matthew here , where He told me about many of you replicating this experiment (In Your Side is an Experiment, in mine it isn't anymore)...and, That You all guys will come back here to tell me How it went...
The point is to test it and read it, then tell Us your "experiences"...

After each one has does that...then you could put even an Old Transformer on it, if you like...but not before we finish this "Stage" please!

This organized way we all come back and talk about it...

Cheers

Ufopolitics