Hello to ALL!!


I am very glad to see how many of you have gotten involved in building this little oscillator...I am waiting from a response once you have tested...even if it did not worked out...I know it does, if it doesn't is because there have to be adjustments done on the signaling, regulating voltage or else...

I want to tell you all something very important, that I have written here before, but I will write it again.

Just want touch, some important issues here today...

Do not spend a lot of money on this, I have seen many sending me the whole set for body work...in pounds I believe, that's too much!!...I said it works even better on an Air core...So, please read me carefully, whenever I answer someone else, even if it is not related or within the scope of your doubts. This is an Experimental Circuit, I just brought it here as simple as I could find it, but it will get more clever as I keep going.

Whenever You are going to do the first testing, make sure of:

1_Set "Gauges" everywhere you could, Digital Meters, Oscilloscopes , etc.
Mainly you need:
A Voltmeter on Input (between Coil and Diodes, where you hook Input. This measure is one of the most importants...If you see nothing happening and "spending over 2.0 V...something is WRONG!! . So STOP, and go over everything again.
A Volt meter on Batteries Terminals...This measure will allow you to "see" if the Load is kicking back to your Oscillator, if it increases too High, STOP...Recheck your load , that is why I recommend CFL (Fluorescent Bulbs), they are your pilot light.
A Voltmeter on Output (After Diodes) If the light doesn't even attempt to light up...and you get huge voltage here...STOP!!...RECHECK!!
Ammeters on Input Versus Output.
And finally a Hertz meter on Input and Output (Here I want you to record on video if you could the behavior of this two gauges...
At normal set up, they should start at equal values...approximately (I use a TWIN set of same brand meters (EXTECH), this is because there are less chances of % of errors, same manufacturers use same components and designs...so they should be performing pretty good.

There are some meters, that when reading this type of electricity, they start jumping at High-Low...very fast...NOT GOOD!!...It happened at my Motors-Generators...And they were not cheap either, so the $ does not always means they are great,you will never get a good reading with them, therefore is a waste of time.
There are some Chinese Meters that are cheap, but very precise because they have built inside a Compensation Analyzer, and other designs as Logic Controllers , etc...so they do a very fast math and reads out a very good average value.

When doing the POT turns for the first time, GO SLOW!!...VERY SLOW, here watch your Hertz gauges, this should start giving some minor signals at very, very low values of Frequency...a very small pulse...ONCE You have found this point, MARK IT, then go super-slower...to get a faster pulse. (Here at this very first puling is where you could hook a Neon 120V like in my latest video..and here Radiance will come to you at ZERO VOLTS from Input Voltage...Here you have to establish another mark at the highest peak you get the neon to Pulse this light ONLY!!...Once you start getting the Normal illumination, you HAVE PASSED this stage, then STOP, and take Neon Off. and keep going on the CFL...(DO NOT PUT CFL AND NEONS AT SAME TIME FIRST USE NEON, even though the CFL will also do this reading, however the real picture of Radiance you will only get it with Neon, they are beautiful colors and is worthy) put a switch for both On-Off, so you do not get distracted where you were at.

Do not try a Halogen or Tungsten filament Incandescent lamp...it will turn it on , but you will get MASSIVE negative feedback ("C EMF")..and your Coil will overheat, Later on We will even light a Metal Halide Sodium HID Bulb...but NOT NOW.

I have to keep moving ahead, there are tons of things coming on, some are related some aren't...
I am "reviving , and enhancing to newest technology improvements, a few Nikola Tesla patents, Motors-Generators and Coils...And some new type of Oscillation..
But I will like first to see some of you, at least one, got it going perfect...then He-She can stay here while am gone to other sites-or Forums..

And last, I know this is a public site, so anyone could see-read this Posts, and this Goes mainly to them, as You have read me before on this.

THIS FINDINGS I HAVE MADE, CAN NOT BE PATENTED NOR, INTELLECTUALLY, PROTECTED, THEY ARE BASED ON A SERIES OF ANCIENT LAWS on PHYSICS and ELECTROMAGNETISM, that SCIENCE MADE SOME "MISTAKES", AND SOME FORGETTING, BUT AM NOT HERE TO JUDGE THEM, I AM HERE TO DISCLOSE THEM OPENLY, AND PROVE THEY WERE AND ARE WRONG, WITH REAL LAB FACTS THAT MANY OF YOU WILL BE WITNESSING WITH ME THROUGH HERE.
SO, IF ANY SEE DIAGRAMS HERE, AND COMMENTS THAT WE'VE FOUND RADIANT ENERGY TAPPING, PLEASE, DO NOT ATTEMPT, TO COPY AND WALK NOR RUN TO THE DESIGNATED AGENCIES, TO MAKE THEM PROTECTED , I KNOW YOU MAY HAVE A VERY CREATIVE MIND...BUT ALL YOU WILL DO, IS CREATE SOME HEAVY AND PAINFUL, STOMACH ACHE IN THE USPTO or ANY OTHER COUNTRY, EXAMINERS OR ATTORNEYS FIRM...DUE TO TOO MUCH LAUGHING!!


THAT GOES ON EVERY DISCLOSURE I MADE HERE OR ELSE, MUST ARE BASED ON "PRIOR ART" APPARATUS, DEVICES, INVENTIONS OR LAWS.



Cheers and good luck on this!!


Ufopolitics

Yes indeed it is the facebook me

if you host some diagrams at archive.org, it says you can select them licensed as public domain.... a good reminder nonethe less

this next revolution will not be bought and sold, ... it will be built

@Ufopolitics
Great lightshow (I have seen all your video's)
Will try to build your circuit but there is some info missing.
About the coil: how to wind (primary and secondary) and what cable/gauge type?
About the driver: guess the picture Ewizard made is the correct one, right?
Thanks for this marvellest piece of work!

ps. Does the setup work when you put the coil in a Faraday cage?

Bert

Hello bbem,

Thanks!

The gauge is 18, No secondary, just One single coil, so far for this test.
I did 3 layers of 120 Turns each in series.
It works inside water also...

Cheers and looking forward to hear from You

Ufopolitics

What is the direction of winding ? Right or left ? What does 3 layers means :
1. normal winding technic
2. trifilar when all 3 are wound in the same time and then connected like this : end of 1 to the start of 2 and of 2 to the start of 3
3. one layer first then on top of it second layer then on top of it third layer and in the end connecting as in point 2

regards
Boguslaw

Hi all!
Hello Ufopolitics!

So nice of you to share with us your knowledge, I appreciate this very much.

I'm going to build your circuit, so i first did a simulation of your 555 timer only.
The duty cycle on time is fixed at 2ms and by turning the variable resistor, the frequency of the pulses starts rising very slowly. When the variable resistor is at 70%, the output signal is at about 50% duty cycle and the frequency is 262Hz.
Can you please confirm if this is correct?

...I included the picture for all to see the schematic, i left out the movistor...

@Ufopolitics
Looking at the schematic Ewizard posted (don't know if it is copied from you) I see that the voltage over the Elco is 72V (potential over -36 and +36Volt).
The Elco however is rated 50V.
Any idea what is wrong here?

Bert

Hello[quote=kapierenundkopieren;180140]!!


Yesssss!!!!! Now, That work looks AWESOME!!!

Yes, that is perfect, I knew at least ONE of You guys will give the final touches at great detail.!!!

That is wonderful!!

I am going top check exactly the "starting point" where Radiant enters first time...and measure wave and Hertz...
Of course I am going to go by your schematic now...

The movistor is there to protect the 555...and its surrounding circuitry...that's all..
Now let's Rock and Roll!!!

I got a Coil design almost ready...that looks like made in another Galaxy...so get ready!

I will get back at you

Thanks so much!!

Ufopolitics

Hello Boguslaw!

Three layer means One first...2nd and third..One on top of other.(I use masking tape between layers, or any kind of higher temperature flex paper. to damp/reduce vibration noise, ..connected outside Coil, meaning leaving terminals extended outside the coil, this I made it like that for testing purposes...Then you could connected "Bifilar"..like you just said (1 to 2 to 3 ...Layer 1 gets One Out , Layer 3 gets One out) BUT all have to project same Magnetig Orientation that is VERY IMPORTANT!!, Otherwise they will cancel and will never work!!...I also check induction levels playing with just two inseries and one primary out etc...

All Layers winded in same direction, to have same N and same South in COMMON.

Light and Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hey Bert,

Could you please show here that schematic?...I have no idea...I will check it later...
What is the Elco?

Sorry, I am lost and running...lol

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hello Ufopolitics & All,

I found few resonant spots starting quite low. At about 160Hz was one of the strongest and I had to reduce input a bit since neon started to go white/purple. My DMM across the battery went crazy. I used square wave with 2-3% duty cycle.
Yes, neon glows happily under water too (tap water). I tried few coils but they have different wire and number of turns. They all worked. I'm looking for one bifilar (or trifilar) left after some other tests. It should work better than single wound. There is a nice resonance showing on the drain, sort of "trumpet wave".
I hope to have some time tonight to put 555 oscillator together. I'm running on 24V since these are the only two identical,small batteries I have. It is hard to see anything with 100Ah in series.

@kapierenundkopieren very nice job

Thanks
Vtech

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

I believe Bert meant "electrolytic capacitor". This is the same schematic which was first posted by you and later modified due to the missing ground connection.
@Bert,
There is 36V supply here, not symmetrical like -36 - 0 - +36 so cap rating is ok.

Thanks
Vtech

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

Thank you for information, but still there is a missing direction of winding which is important but mostly overlooked. Coil can be wound in right or left hand style or most commonly named : Clockwise (CW) or Counter Clockwise (CCW) and this cannot be changed by orienting coil in 3D space ! So this is important to give us detailed description or schematic in what direction you wound your coil and from what end you started and how then are ends connected to + and - of circuit.

This is especially important if you give us on which Earth hemisphere you are and if there is any good or bad bio effects while running loads attached to your circuit.
Operating frequency would help also.
I really want that we start safe and I'm fully convinced that circuits like that could produce good or bad radiant energy called in the past by many names (like orgone and bad orgone)

@blackchisel97 and @UfoPolitics,
This is the circuit I was referring to.
According to Blackchisel97 the voltage used is 36V (and not -36V and +36V).

ps. Finished my coil (CW wound), need to build the driver now and order parts.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hey Boguslaw,

This is just a single Coil , that if you like could go the 360 Turns continuous (without breaking them in layers) I did it because it helps when testing other parameters (like the way this electricity induces into the next layers before Hot Electricity does, etc) and doing some math also between Current, Voltage and Hertz, Load On-Off, etc,etc.

Now winding the Coil I started CW on top of cylinder core...and that is meant to be the positive, therefore, that upper part next to (+) will give you a North Pole...
All other layers I did the same exact way.(CW)..I put a white sleeve to mark which one was first layer...and 2, & 3...

Then joined :

1-Layer One (1) Negative (-) to Layer two (+)....

2-Layer Two negative (-) to Layer 3 (+)....

3-And I used as Inputs Layer One (1) (+) and Layer Three(3) (-)

I hope this helped


Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hey Blackchisel!!

Great!..That's same I got...on Neon, kind of bright purpleish blue-white ball of plasma running between electrodes...
Just a couple of questions...
Did you read when it started to change to "Normal Neon Illumination"...like the typical orange...or it kept white purple at all times?.
Did you read (Hertz and Wave %) when you lost it..(meaning loose the purple light)...if you ever did...
Because You are having same as me, but I loose Radiant at certain point...then it gets regular Neon Light...and I can keep going up...but no sense...I lost Her (Radiance I call her as a short for Radiant Energy to Cold Electricity Process)
And yes,, She is a Female and a very beautiful one!!...lol


Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hello Ufopolitics, Yes, there is a certain spot at very low frequency when it happens (it may happen higher too but I tried to keep input current and pulse amplitude as low as possible). Increasing frequency will result in bright but "normal" orange. I'll try to get freq. readings off my scope- it is the only way I can measure atm.

Thanks
Vtech

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

I got some data, however, it maybe a bit chaotic due to highly disorganized workspace
I used very low dc (3-5% on time). The only variables are function gen. output and frequency. I also monitor current and battery V (37.7V).
I started with just enough pulse amplitude to get transistor working and slowly increasing frequency. First neon response (orange floating) appeared at 40Hz. Slight increase in gen. amplitude resulted in purple plasma but current draw was high - almost 180mA. Next, much brighter spot occurred at 312Hz and I had to reduce amplitude to save neons (I have two in parallel). This and the next spot - 555Hz were both at 100mA. Another one at 650Hz and 85mA and next at 1.113 kHz (which was the last point with purple glow) at 50mA.
Brightest orange was observed at 1.800Khz.
I can run 9W CFL (most efficient spot) at about 4kHz and 11kHz (approx.25mA) with reduced amplitude, after igniting.
This test was done on my first coil setup, three toroid chokes in series, wound with approx. 50T #16 each.

Thanks
Vtech

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

Hello Blackchisel,

On your neon measurement (On Low Hertz) it was great, and you were able to retain the Purple Light..."Slight increase in gen. amplitude resulted in purple plasma but current draw was high - almost 180mA..."
Ok, Radiant Energy enters our system at T-Off times, but it requires of our Magnetic Field to be there...therefore increasing amplitude or frequency gets you more Radiance..So, when you increased the Gen Amplitude (either at a percentage of On or Off or both, it made it flow in.

Now, The Toroid is (I am pretty sure) your problem at Higher Increase of Hertz...tell you why:

Toroid s are Not "Open Magnetic Dipoles"..They do not project the magnetic field spectrum defined into space...instead they 'wrap it' inside the toroidal ring core...NOT GOOD! . That the reason you need so much frequency to light up a 6W CFL...

I do it in a 65W at @2000 Hertz of Radiant magnetic field...while Mine (Input, between diodes and Coil) is at 800 Hz...
That's Big time difference.
Blackchisel, please measure Hertz at Input of Coil, before diodes, and After Diodes (Output to CFL) Please..And don't need Scope just Hertz Meters will do.

You will see a huge difference with a plain cylindrical Coil...I am sure of that.
Because you have a very solid and well defined signal control there...so, to me it is Your Toroid Coil...


Cheers


Ufopolitics

Yes, I agree about the toroid. I used to get something before winding proper one. So far toroid gave me best results but h. freq. I also tried conical, single wound and it worked too.
The only way I can measure frequency is from the scope. My DMM's don't have this option. It seems that I have the same reading before and after diodes

Thanks
Vtech

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

Hi Ufo and kapierenundkopieren,

I have noticed that the variable resistor on your diagrams are set out different. Assuming that the connection marked "W" on Ufo's circuit is the wiper arm of the variable resistor, kapierenundkopieren has a different connection as the wiper arm. Can someone please clarify this connection for me please.

Thanks netica

Yes, you're correct, "wiper arm" should go to pin 7 of 555. There is no need to make any other modification than switching wires at 250K pins. I posted earlier modified layout and drew VR on it. Post # 116.

Thanks
V

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

Thanks blackchisel i've just checked out the earlier modification, I wonder if this would change kapierenundkopieren's simulation.

I managed to wind new coil with #18. Unfortunately, all I had left from other projects was enough for 300T. I got 60T per layer and separated each with tape. All layers connected outside in series - 1E>2S, 2E>3S etc. 1S connected to positive - which will become N pole. I tried aircore first and later fitted with iron core - welding rods. With core I have neon and CFL brighter @ lower A (9W CFL fully lit @200mA air vs 90mA iron core - 3.3W). Same purple dance in neon at lower freq. but I had to increase ON duty. I couldn't get same effect as with toroid (or Rodin) @dc 3%.
With CFL connected I have a wave very similar to solid state - "h". I need to fix my X10 probe. I'm scoping at X1 and have to scroll up and down to see only 75%
I'll try different transistor tomorrow. I don't think this is right.

Thanks
V

__________________
'Get it all on record now - get the films - get the witnesses -because somewhere down the road of history some bastard will get up and say that this never happened'

General D.Eisenhower

http://www.youtube.com/user/blackchisel97?feature=mhum

Yes it does change the simulation. If the wiper of the pot is connected to pin 7 of 555 (like ufopolitics original schematic) you can only vary the duty cycle and the frequency is fixed at 528Hz. I think this is incorrect, because ufopolitics talks about changing the frequency and the duty cycle, so i think my schematic and simulation should be correct.

@Ufopolitics, can you please clarify this? Is the wiper of the pot in your schematic in the right place?
Thanks

Hello Blackchisel!!

I am very glad that you've got it in better with that coil, 300T is Ok...However the more Turns the better out Hot side will work at lower temperatures.
You got better results with Iron Core, because of the "Hot Side" develops better its flux, therefore, Our Magnetic Field becomes stronger, this makes the "Magnetic Invoke" for Radiant much faster and efficient, and less expensive on our side.
But Radiant Energy does NOT requires to do "Her" flux in steel. She moves in the air...(That is Her Medium)...So Induction occurs in a Secondary without steel core. This fact is better for Us, since Hot requires Steel to develop and grow flux...so in a Secondary with air core...Hot will be present at very minimal levels. So We here, achieve a perfect Isolation of Radiance.

Thanks Blackchisel, am very glad of your results!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hello kapierenundkopieren,

First I want to thank you again for your great work...
That circuit I've got is NOT Perfect, however it will give you the readings I mentioned. Like I said before here, I got that circuit from a Guy that builds electronic stuff...then I modified to the Spec's of my Motors (Voltage Regulator, and other things)

But You, kapierenundkopieren,Has gotten it and given the other parameter We ALL also need to play with...and I will explain in another post am about to do, related to my newest findings.
The Frequency MUST be able to be adjusted...In mine It can't...reason why we can not "accelerate" all the way...because we approach an "almost" linear signal with very little T-Off...That KILLS Radiant Energy.

The "Perfect" Square Wave for Radiant Energy capturing, should work "Inversely Proportional" to Our Hot Electricity...Copy that?
Meaning, We start with progressive and wide T-On's on our pulses at 50%...That Originates (on Our Side) a very Strong pulsating magnetic field that Invokes Radiant in our circuit....Then we keep tuning at 50% till we get Her very Solid...(The point I mentioned where Our Hertz remain while "Radiance" side keeps increasing...NOW, At this point (I call it Saturation of OUR MAGNETIC FIELD in the Good side of it). At this point Our Square wave should be slightly DECREASING its T-On and widening the T-Off (I know this may sound very stupid for many, but the thing is that we are trying to use our side as less as possible...while we allow Her to GROW.

Now, based on this totally new principle and concept....is that We must start conceiving and designing, our perfect capturing System to finally conquer Radiant Energy in a very Robust way.

Thanks again kapierenundkopieren,
Excellent work!!

Ufopolitics

Hello Netica!

Please read my comment #177 that I respond to kapierenundkopieren, your answer is there.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hello Everyone!!

INTRODUCTION:

Last night I made Two great findings related to a more robust form, to get Radiant in our Systems...Every time since the first day, when I discover this great and simple form of capturing Radiant Energy....I had experienced a Duality of Feelings that is not normal in a typical mentally sane mind...Happiness, because of my great discovery...and a very deep Sadness takes over without being able to fight it out of myself...

So, I will "Divide" this post today in two parts:

1- The Technical and the Happy Side, That I know must will be interested on, since this is what this site is all about...
Here I will disclose my latest findings that really, I considered very useful to all of you. As it will radically change our minds completely.

So, if you wanna "Skip" my other post...please do, I will understand it...However...We are made of a great nerves system, that works very synchronized with our thoughts and behavior through all our lifetime on this Earth..So, I needed to "Release" this "Other Side of Me, the Human one) to you also as a kind of "Therapy" to myself also...I hope you could understand me.

2- The Political-Economical and very Sad part of this "Movie"...
As I move through, making great progress with this great discovery, I can not avoid to look back...at our history simultaneously...
I can avoid to coincide and understand the so many great men along our past who stood up against the Orthodox Science...trying to reveal their great and asserted findings...As also I see that the Conspiracy have been very real and truth...to keep us the way we are...Using ancient technologies, based on Fossil Fuels exploding and burning...at very high prices that includes our life as mankind on this beautiful planet to be extincted, wiped out of our Universe.
You all know the rest...

Thanks for reading me


Next Two posts coming...above


Ufopolitics

FIRST RESEARCH TO A BEST RESULTS COIL DESIGN-IMPROVEMENT: A PARALLEL MULTIFILAR COIL

I am in the process of building a Better Core based on my findings, research and developments...And I got a very robust one last night.

I tried a Plastic Core (actually a "modified" 1 1/4 Inch of PVC pipe-line) In order to have an Air Core based Coil...I turned 600/ 18 Gauge wire on it and got better results than with the previous Steel Core 360 T, however, I was looking to get rid of that "Dive" Radiant is taking from very low pulsations, when I get that beautiful purple plasma dance on my Neons... to Fully lit Bulbs...There is a Gap, that she disappears ...and as I keep slowly turning...I can see How much she "Fights" against something, opposing for her to come in...till she wins...and we get Her.
Well, last night I overcome that.
I thought I will give it a try to a Bifilar Winding as Nikola Tesla patented in the early 1900...with the same 600Turns/18gauge...So I went through all the trouble of passing all the winding to an empty Roll...and making it bifilar (For those who does not know about this method...is just simple, Instead of using one wire, it uses two strains and then connected in series. This gives a Parallel Electromagnetic Field effect, while having the connection in series.) When I tried testing it, to my disappointment it DID NOT worked out, the Coil got hotter than usual, and much less Radiance out...than the regular straight 600T/18Ga ...But,I did not "hide" inside the windings where I did the split-connection ...since I am "testing" it is not a good scientific approach to give things by completed and granted, when all we are doing here is "experimenting"...

So then I separate them and wire them in PARALLEL...AND WAS THAT great results!!!....PARALLEL BIFILAR connection, got rid of the "Dive" I had....I am getting now a fully lit lamp very straight and robust, while my consumptions has decreased considerably to our advantage.
I am getting a very beautiful dancing light of purple plasma on my Neon...However, since parallel is also a strong approach for Hot Electricity to travel, I am getting also Orange Hot light mixed up...which is no problem...Radiant grows on Resistance, so the Diode "leak" of Hot into my side could be easily resolved with a very high Mega-Ohm resistor...I am sure that would be a solution...since I do not think We have a 100% , Zero leak current Diode as of yet...If you think of a better solution, please share it here.



SECOND RESEARCH RESULTS: CARBON FIBER IS A MUCH BETTER, EFFICIENT SUPER-CONDUCTOR FOR RADIANT ENERGY THAN THE "OLD" COPPER MATERIAL USED IN OUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS UP TO NOW


I was trying to create an Induction through Air of pure Radiant Energy...And I did...better and faster than Hot Electricity, no need for a Huge, heavy piece of Laminated Steel core...However, when I got a Ring I had made of Carbon Fiber, from a previous project....and wind it... it did not worked !!...nothing , absolutely no Radiance came out...after trying with other materials and having great positive results...I had Isolated the Enameled wire...from the Carbon fiber...still no signs of Radiant...This triggered my Scientific Curiosity...to try other tests...
I got just a piece of carbon mesh made with Polyester Resin...and tried to install it in series with a Radiant Lit Bulb...Nothing happened...Radiant did not go through!! ...And if anyone does not know...Carbon Fiber is a great Hot Electricity conductor, no matter with what resin you do it with...
The fact that Radiant was not going through Carbon Fiber did not made ANY sense at ALL to me...since Radiant goes through Our Carbon Resistors like they were NOT there, not even getting them hot!!??
So I did another experiment...just to conclude and made sure My deductions were correct.
I had a Radiant lit bulb...a CFL, fully bright...and just got the connectors (WITHOUT SEPARATING THEM, BUT JOINED TOGETHER) And got them to JUST "touch" the Cylindrical piece of carbon fiber...and guess what happened?!....Radiant went off completely!!...I had to reset to zero pulses and re-try to make sure it was not due to anything else...but yes...every time I just touched a "live wire" with Radiant to a Carbon Fiber mesh....got it OFF COMPLETELY...and IMMEDIATELY AS CONTACTS HIT THE SURFACE OF THE MESH.!!!

Then I turned everything off...lit up a cigarette...and started to process that brand new data...to get to conclusions....Did you get it by now??

Well this is the thing...A Carbon Fiber mesh is like a COMPLETELY SHORTED OUT Circuit Board for Hot Electricity...where Every single copper line is shorted out...without any resistance at all...Will you expect the Bulb at other end of that Circuit Board to EVER Light Up in a circuit where every single millimeter of copper line is shorted out?...Absolutely NOT

Radiant is much faster than Hot electricity...however she is not as aggressive and explosion type, fires and burning like Hot Does....Radiance simply goes away...not one spark...just the light went off...I had to Invoke her again FROM ZERO every time I did this testings...meaning, the one we've got, we shorted...She's gone.


This Fact LEADS into IMAGINING the greatest, ever made before, much better equipment-developments that We could be designing in a very short time, and that so far...it belonged to a Stephen Spielberg's Science Fiction Movie...like Motors and generators that have a Fiberglass, Kevlar or other light composite material not as heavy as the "Old Piece of Steel" but STRONGER than it...
But the BEST...is to build Electronic-Electrical Circuitry, like Circuit Boards for Radiant Energy, based on printed carbon fiber lines in a bed of isolated mica or fiberglass..So, Copper is NO LONGER required here...AT ALL!!
Imagine a Motor based on a Light Kevlar Composite Core-Armature-Rotor-Stators Structure?...very light...and very strong...an ever lasting machine...
But...Now let's wind it...guess what?...No more High Temperature Enamel, Copper wire, required either..!! as the Oldest Material used into Electromagnetism!!...Sorry Copper, but say Goodbye to Hollywood!!
An Isolated Carbon Fiber strand like a human hair size....stronger than Copper...5 times stronger than Steel Alloys (HSLA- High Strength Light Alloy) Holding higher temperatures than copper...and never getting "crispy fried" like many motors and generators when they short out..We will build the REAL SUPER MACHINES HERE LADIES AND GENTLEMEN...!!!

But that's NOT ALL...

The Super-Magnetic Fields that a Coil made of Carbon fiber strand creates...Isolated properly ...goes beyond our reality...into Science Fiction levels...I am talking Anti gravity...properties...that's how fast and effective they are...(We do not have Isolated fine carbon fiber wires as of yet available...just the "Old typical" Spark Plugs Cables that are carbon made inside, but isolated with a heavy Silicon cover...not good for winding a Motor...So We have to build them ourselves...layer by layer...sandwiched with resins...(Epoxies or Polyesters).

Now let's remember...that Carbon is a very cheap material...I could say One of the cheapest in our planet...

While Copper gets expensive by the minute...

This is a FACT....and is happening NOW...You could go ahead and verify what am saying-writing here today...Go ahead...I encourage for You all to test This and the following test I will be exposing!!


Have a Super Nice Weekend!!



Ufopolitics
(The Disclosure is NOW!)



P.D: I decided , after writing all this...that I really do not want to spoil our joy and happiness...with sadness right now...I feel better that I shared this with you all now..So, no, I won't...I will let you "figure out"... what would I have posted as my next comment entirely to your imagination...

Cheers!!