ASYMMETRIC ELECTRO-MAGNETIC ROTATING METHODOLOGY FOR MOTORS AND GENERATORS ASSEMBLIES.


ABSTRACT

A new concept to the Art of Electromagnetic Rotation Methodology, that includes new structuring of the Mechanical Architecture of an Electric Motor and/or Generator or combination thereof, extending to the methods for processing their Input-Output governing data.

Static and rotational components, particularly individual isolated groups of coil elements performing dual functions as a Motor and as a Generator at specific angles within the 360 degrees of rotation. An specific and unique feature of this methodology is the non reversal of the input current-voltage polarity within the actuating individual isolated coils during the motor stages, causing a non changing magnetic field pole projection due to a one sense or direction magnetic flux in their respective cores, rotation occurs by switching intervals of On and Off Times at specific positioning, such that a repulsion and/or attraction is constantly obtained at T-On, of individually orderly sequenced North-South poles.

This particular switching times On and Off creates a one direction, non colliding electronic flow within the isolated conductive coil elements deriving into a pulsating current dropping to zero (at T Off) to Max V in (at T On), equivalent switching codes as to the electronically controlled Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) utilized to control the current feeding input in Electric Motors and the Input-Output parameters of Power Source Converters, this identical Data-Transfer, based on Pulsed Signals, establishes a common language of operation between machine and input-output control commands, leading into a robust communication protocol.

The advantages that comprises a Motor and/or a Generator driven directly from the core by pulsed signals, extend to the incorporation of Optoelectronic s as to replace the Old Fashion, brush-commutator switching systems by an emitting pulsed width modulated (Infrared PWM as an example) or linear optical signal (Signaling steadily where On Off occurs by mechanical-magnetic loosing angle of interaction) to an Optoelectronic receiver connected to the Power Switching Executing circuits, delivering a less friction, low noise, more accurate and precise communication Network.


ASYMMETRY TO ENLIGHTENMENT - YouTube

A more detailed explanation will follow, as also some videos of working models...


Regards and get ready...


Ufopolitics

Attached Files

5_POLES_2_STATOR_ISO_FINAL.pdf (56.6 KB, 352 views)

Thank you, UFO, from my heart, for your generosity. It will be a blessing to many...
Bob

Hey Ufo,

Thankyou for continuing to share all your knowledge via open source and that action has never been lost on me
I think it's best for me to watch this a few times and process the information before I comment my friend. I have so many ideas/expectations for this clip and very eager to finally answer my fundermental questions about Radiant energy production the way I see it.
Clarity to define the Asymmetrical concept to energy flows is pivotal!!!

Regards
Zero

Hello to All,

To show you guys...that this is not only CGI Animations...but also Real working Prototypes...here is my Bosch Motor pictures with dual commutators and already wound...also already mounted in a Badsey Scooter...This motor could run myself...at high speed with just three R/C LiPo's...for very long times...I can carry an "Extra Pack" in my pocket...


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@ufopolitics:

Wow! That is impressive workmanship.

Will your "part 2" have some basic DIY instructions and/or measurements for input VS output, etc?

truesearch

Thanks a lot Ufoplitics for sharing your knowledge, it really opened my mind. . I had to seen twice the video to got it.
In the video at the minute 11:30 you show the input and the output, I have a question in this point. How would be the conection of the right side (output) with the left side?,

Best regards.

Hello,

Here are some pics of what you will do with this little RS Motors...
The reason I chose this particular one, is because it is simple to take apart, the shaft length allows the installation of a second commutator (this is very important feature to any motor to be converted without making a clever project!)

So, one motor will have to be "sacrificed" to build one...this is the draw back of this...however, larger models that supply separate replacing parts will work great without buying two motors...which could become very expensive.

The sacrificed motor we will take off the commutator, very easy and smooth operation...it is attached to shaft and secure through splines built on shaft...cut wires, and clean extra resin from clearance with blade to see exact gap between comm and upper armature core resin...to start pulling it apart exactly from there. if you push commutator from elements or mica base...you will crack it, or separate Duck Tail Copper element...Comm is ruined and goodbye 6 bucks...

The next step would be to cut the frame smaller ring off the sacrificed motor...that will support the second commutator brush housings at the "Asymmetric one to be". Now you will have to make exact measurements here, however this motor gives us a pretty exact line to be cut right below the brush oval window ..careful, you could throw out $6.00 in seconds...it must be filed down to exact spec's, then take out the Magnets springs that hold them together...pull magnets out and weld frame...no heat to magnets!!...it could ruin them. Besides it is much better to test rotation to be freely spinning before welding it together, use some crazy glue as "tack welds" first...till you get it right. I will give exact millimeters ring size further, I can't now...

I will also post the procedure of windings, I used 30 awg wire (Radio Shack Red Wire), 25 turns per coil...so a Pair will have 50 turns and should read around +/- 1.2-1.4 ohms.

Now, this motor uses a type of winding I call the "Pyramid Shape" (You will love the "Sacred Geometry" ones coming soon) However, this pyramid type is meant to be expanded to odd pole numbers. Pyramid because the two coils (Serial connected Pairs) configure an open V, where the "point" where the two lines converge will be your indicator to each pair center, each coil winds exactly as being just one angled coil, in order to have one side of Pyramid N, and the other South.

You must decide which end of motor would be your Positive input/start side, it would be your marker to wind, so mark it, color it, I normally use the longer shaft part where we mount the extra commutator. And each Pyramid point would be your coil pair number. This motor needs Five(5) Pyramids, meaning, Ten Single Coils (10). All Coils are wound exactly same direction, and try to keep them "balanced" by exact number of turn.

One of the most important part is to set the commutators elements exactly linearly aligned upper and bottom...in order that upper-low brushes will make EXACT timing contact per segment-per coil pairs.
The second very important part would be to load the whole diagram in a CAD Software and rotate to see exact angles of contact in further to come more complicated models with more poles...The positioning of brushes related to Stators is VERY IMPORTANT, as where you have connect to commutator element!!

Later on (and I love this feature to verify contacts from already assembled motors-generators on this systems), is the fact that with a digital meter on continuity set mode, connected to Upper Positive to lower Negative (Motor Input), you could check each pair of coils timing and contact, by slowly rotating the shaft...as further on is a great way to detect any open coils for repairs...

Below are some pic's of the model building it...

This little motor, will brake the Symmetry...it could run linear (attached directly to a 10-12V Battery (not a car battery please!, I have not tested with too high amps!)...If you input 10V, it will shut straight off the two outer flow end terminals around 5 to 8 Volts 9 (because of resistance and commutator losses)...
However, if you attach (like I mention on Asymmetry Video)...the two bottom terminals positive output with negative input Still feeding lower negative...and attach a meter at upper positive input, and upper negative output, we will be connecting Input battery with extra output out in series...then we get around 15 to 20 Volts, depending on RPM's and under load it increases output voltage-current. Pleaserealize that also a mechanical energy is being generated,...and with lot's of torque!...Try to stop this little motor...and you will be very surprised...

However, when pulsed by an oscillator, since it is getting an interrupted signal...it will produce more...and the more you accelerate it...the more it gets out...

There are ways to connect it as a SEPIC Converter circuit (Two Inductors DC-DC Single Electromagnetic Primary Inductance Converter)...I call it the SEPIC MOTOR...Where Inductors are no longer just sitting in a circuit board...but performing also a mechanical output.


Regards


Ufopolitics


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Hello Truesearch,

Yes I will..in time...I am still taking a little rest from long video editing-making...
So far below you will find the Radio Shack some instructions on making it...

Regards


Ufopolitics

I already have some of this wire, will that work ok?

When you say weld, will a standard soldering iron suffice, or is some arc welding required?

Can these devices be self-running with no outside power? (even if an initial input is required), by somehow connecting the output back into the input.

Ufo......can't wait to see the video / results from that little motor!

Hi folks, Hi ufopolitics, thank you very much for sharing your work.
I comprehend how you have the 5 pole armature coil wound with the 2 stator magnets.
So this arrangement allows more of our input voltage to charge the armature coil to create a magnetic field, instead of the usual symmetrical counter emf loss plus commutator loss, which destroys at least 75% of our input voltage.

What is the percentage of input voltage loss due to counter emf with this pyramid-V coil pair style geometry, or is it more a case that it aids rotation.
I'm still trying to fully comprehend how it either prevents much of the typical clashing of induced counter emf or aids our input voltage.
Gotta go to a birthday party, though later, I am going to draw this on CAD, so I can rotate it and see things better.
I seem to recall, Robert Adams designed an asymmetric design like this also.
Thanks again.
peace love light
tyson

Hello to all,

The awg for this little motor is 30 gauge...Red wire from R/S...not like I wrote before 26, which is the Green wire...

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello Tyson,

Yes you got it right basically...but let me clear some small clouds...

We provide Source to Input, energized Pair of Coils build a "per-conceived" magnetic field that would be immediately attracted repulsed away from original positioning, Coil will disconnect from source, and will travel free...separated from original brush contact...here, in this nano seconds...it will build an opposed magnetic field, therefore an opposed voltage potential (just like the Inductor does at the Booster-SEPIC-Buck Converters, that is why I spent hours building the 3D Graphics of the Inductor part at my video...lol)...Inductors, as my Coil in my first Thread...build an opposed magnetic field provided by Radiant....The "Princess"... . I have much better proof of that fact, coming soon...well not too soon...but coming.
When Coil reverses magnetic polarity, it happens exactly at a point where it will assist rotation...(And here you guys could understand Joe Newman statements, as well as many Free Energy Inventors...that their motors used the C EMF to "assist rotation" which did not make sense to anyone..but I did understand what they meant...

You have to realize that Symmetry creates the Counter Effect, by providing an inverse Input to Source...that is NOT the normal reversing that occurs when Coil is interrupted... or Inductor in a booster circuit board...Symmetry KILLS the Natural Counter Effect, by creating a fake one with Hot electricity...The Natural Radiant Counter Effect will never get out ever...unless we FREE those Coils at least a small portion of the time...

Resuming, We are using the Commutator Switching, just as an Electronic Oscillator Switcher, but mechanically operated...So, Charged Inversely Inductor will travel to "Delivery Brushes"(Output) where We collect it...

You Guys need to get "Familiar" with The way SEPIC Converters work...I could not do it on video because of time... But a SEPIC is a Dual Inductor Converter...it performs a Charge-Discharge Alternatively of both Inductors...through a Non Polarized Cap between the two Inductor legs connected to output...I have done exactly same connections with my motors...except the Inductors are also performing a Mechanical Rotation (using their swapping magnetic fields)
A CUK Converter is more complicated function and it "inverts the output",so it is NOT a good example for this understanding...

And Yes, We do "Add" and not subtract the Input to Output Values...they are not opposed anymore, but on our side...therefore:

Ea (Input) and (-Ec) (Counter?)..NO MORE, it should be written as Ef (E forward), and have a + sign in front...then it will be:

Ea+Ef=Ev (Effective Armature Voltage)...disregarding R to One Ohm (1.0)

I hope this explanation made it a bit clear...hope so...


Regards


Ufopolitics

UFOpolitics, Many thanks again for sharing this incredible info. Do take a good long rest and then some. You've earned it. That will give the builders here time to round up some parts and time to put together some good questions.

I've sent a message to a person who I consider to be a master motor builder who has been involved in overunity work for well over a decade. Hopefully he'll join in here. I know he's aware of some of these concepts and has done a lot to bring awareness of coil shorting to collect back emf. I expect he would be one of the first to get a useful replication built based on these ideas if he checks in here.

I like to jump in to something bigger than radio shack toy motors if I think the concept is good and I think this is good to go. Can you recommend a particular motor(s) that would be good to work with and which would have enough power to drive a scooter at least? I think motors with dual commutators are somewhat of a rarity as far as finding them right out of the box aren't they?

__________________
There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

Ufopolitics thank you for sharing your knowledge .... i have a question .... if it is not out of place .... you mention pair of isolated coils .... would a Smith Coil / Caduceus Coils ... when looked at its form and the way it behaves can they act as a pair of isolated coils .... just wondering

ps: if you are interested : recent docs have been posted on it : Caduceus Winding (Smithcoil) | Paranormalis

__________________
"You cannot invent, you can only discover" - Gordon Plummer

Hi ufopolitics, thanks very much for clarifying.
I think I comprehend better now.
This sounds similar to what garry stanley was claiming with his dual rotor air core motor, though the method of reducing induced counter emf briefly was a little different and similar at the same time.
So it is the collapsing magnetic field of the coil that is neutralizing the induced counter emf upon entry into next commutator segment, which allows most of our voltage input to remain intact, for charging of coil to create magnetic field for motor purposes.
And the pyramid-V coil geometry with proper armature/stator geometry allows for this collapsing coil pulse to be in a position to not only naturally neutralize the induced counter emf, but in this case, causes an additive motoring force, whereas without armature/stator magnet geometry, we would only be partially neutralizing the induced counter emf and not have the added motoring effect from the collapsing coil pulse.
Hope my comprehension is closer to the true function, if not, take your time with a response, as I know you are working to share more practical replication information, which is probably more important.
Thanks again for all your sharing.
peace love light
tyson

That wire will work just fine...28 and 30 awg is just a hair away...

Those little motors could be solder with a 30 Watts Iron...but it will take longer to heat the metal to the point of melting the solder, scrape it good to clean it before...do not melt the solder with iron...but try on right next to it but on body of motor metal, till it starts melting...then melt it right on crack area...must put it on a vise...Now, you could use the Q-Bond I mentioned on your magnets thread...that works great. Or any other fast glue like crazy glue...it will not be for ever though...

No device could be a self runner just like that Wonza...that you just hook out to in and vuala...sorry...there are more things involved my friend...caps, tronics...delay circuits...etc

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello MonsieurM,

I looked at it...no, that is some complicated winding...when I said "isolated" I meant not connected to the rest, independent...isolated pairs of coils...they are just connected between them in series and to each commutator segment...and so every one in the system...not internally connected as a whole serial bunch...like typical Symmetric motors...

Regards

Ufopolitics

Ok I have taken the commutator off the sacrificial unit and placed it on the back end of the back end. It was touch and go there for a while. When pressing it back onto the other shaft I flipped the case over and was able to tap the shaft so it went through the bearing hole while the commutator was equalied against the outside of the hole. That worked very nicely without any real force just very gentle taps.

Next step I think will be to cut off the back end of the housing. There are four little dimples around the perimeter and if I understand correctly I should cut just past those. But that will be tomorrows task.....

What a trip!

Les

Hello Les_K,


Did You see my pictures above?...of the 5 pole close up?
There I have pictured almost the whole deal...you could see where to cut...I made the video spinning...but transferring, plus putting it all in one track and uploading it is a trip...
Hope I will get to sleep some hours...lol

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hi

Thought I would share a few thoughts about removing the commutator – which behaves like the witch! Here’s how I got mine off. Using a knife blade remove all the insulation varnish/resin from the rotor face adjacent to the commutator to be removed. Using a fine saw blade, hold the blade flat against the rotor (where the resin has been removed), and draw the blade over the plastic of the commutator, to make a cut, removing just a blades width of plastic all around the commutator , thus exposing the shaft.

The commutator now needs to be pushed up the shaft to remove it. Make 2 tools using 20mm x 3mm x 60mm aluminium. In the aluminium make a saw cut the width of the shaft and about 10mm long, and camphor the end, so it will fit under the commutator. Using this, and a 5 mm nail against the rotor face, you can lever the commutator upwards. Note mine made quite a sharp snap when initially levered up, thought it had broken, it hadn’t. Use the other tool as packing, when you run out of movement.

Hope that is of some help.

Regards

John

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G'Day UFO
Looks great can hardly wait to get my first part going then this Perhaps a motor for My Bike then a Motor for My Car
Thanks for sharing
Regards

UFO, Thank you for sharing.

On SEPIC converters, there is plenty on the the internet.
For a kick off:

SEPIC Converter Circuit Basics - YouTube

Thanks Ufo! That lets me chose which iron to buy.

Sorry, I realize there's a lot more involved, I was just wanting confirmation if it would be possible. So eventually we could all have a device like this in our homes powering all our devices without any outside fuel, just a large battery to store the power that gets generated. I know much work would have to be done to get there, but is something like that possible?

Also, how would this device work being used purely as a generator? E.g. being turned by wind/wave power? I assume you power get power out of both sides?

[center][b]Report: UFO shots down WITCH over Florida; Military says not to worry, it was just a weather balloon. Later eye-witness reports of same UFO chasing FARMHAND down the road with a ....Broomstick.[center][b]

Wow, go away for a few days and you miss the party. Ufo, thats amazing, thank you so much, you got a big heart ufo.

Thug

Yes, The pictures were a great help. Mine looks just like your pictures show.
I should have made a little video of the process... I may try and do a quick one just to show the process. I was pretty tired so I fell asleep right after I posted But your description of the process and pictures were great!

Thanks UFO,
Les

UFO,

I am a bit confused about how you have wound your coils on the armature.
Please expand on that.

With regards the casing, clearly you have basically are joining two frames together after butchering them!

I found a motor from an old electric drill in my bits box which has a long commutator. I and planning on cutting the commutator in half in situ and add
another set of brushes from another motor!

Much Regards

UFO,

I love what you are doing, and how you are doing it.

One of my favorite things in life is when a NEW common sense takes the place of an old tired one. Congratulations on your accomplishments.

We now believe in UFO's.

Hi Ufo

Bravo ,thank's very much for sharing

i will give a go to your very unconventional and interesting motor

here i am ready for the winding, but need some spec on how to do the pyramid.
Thank's

good luck at all

Laurent

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UFO,
I know I am jumping the gun here but if you refered to one set one the commutator connections by numbers 1,2,3 etc and the other set by "A, B, C .."
it would save a lot of confusion!