Ufopolotics,
I posted your quote and the following on our 3 Battery Generating System thread:
"If you caught what he is saying and what he is trying to demonstrate in his videos...That what we have called CEMF in motors is the response of the radiant to the EMF. We put a charge into a motor which is EMF. It creates the electromagnet and then collapses, and the radiant creates and sends an opposite polarity charge right back at us, which we have called CEMF.

And I believe with a standard DC brushed motor wired between two positives like we are doing, that this radiant pulse escapes the motor, hits the supply (primary) batteries, and charges them. And that is the spike we see on the scope that is higher than the battery voltage (or an over voltage spike)."
Dave Bowling

Hi Ufo,

I have rebuilt the regulator to the latest specifications you have laid out and it works well, works at around 13.7v, I've also used a larger heat sink and temp is not bad.

The only problem is the same thing is happening with the drop off in power to the coil. I have done all the checks with the regulator and it is supplying a constant voltage and amperage without a problem. Supplies to a higher load separate to the circuit as well.

I have measured the voltage to the gate of the mosfets and have found it to be the same as before. Max I can get is just over 5v and quickly drops off to a max of around 2.5v.

The batteries I am using are 3*12v gel cells. I have tested them all individually with 2 halogen bulbs at 70 watts total with no problem.

What do you think could be the problem? Maybe its something to do with one of the components in the 555 circuit.

I can light the neon for a few sec. before it goes out.
I couldn't help connecting a dc motor up to try. It spun it up but as soon as it reached speed the power drops off.

Thanks for help
netica

Hey, Ufo,
Hope you are having a no worries day. Thanks Bro' for your kindness in answering this RE newby. I realise sometimes it may be somewhat frustrating having to deal with individuals not unlike me. I am with your assistance getting up to speed, but, it will take time for sure as this RE area is very sophisticated and is only really for the gifted. Yeah! Ufo, I feel somewhat intimidated by you due to this. However, I realise this is my problem not yours, for you really put yourself out to explain things in great detail. My humble request is: would you please kindly show the detailed schematic drawing of how I should wire up this, as I am somewhat confused, especially with regard to how charging when accelerating, when you also mention the LiPo charger?and want so much to be successful with applying your ideas, as I know others here are determined to do so as well. Lastly, Ufo, and this is also very important: the diodes you show connected to the new coils for back emf and protection from the Hot--quote: The Diodes should be the lowest resistance than the IN4000 family (rated @600 Ohms)...I use the NTE576...rated at 400 Volts and @400Ohms. besides being a bigger body diode...however, I have Blown them with low voltage input but RE feed back spikes when Load was 'demanding too much' ...but there are many available that would do the job, Fast Switching is very Important! Thus Ufo which safe fast diode do we use which will not blow? what are there part numbers and/or specific Type, Ratings of I and v etc? I want to buy these all important diodes for inclusion.

Thanks in advance Ufo,
Take it easy, and stay frosty,
wingstalysis

Hello Netica,

Ok that sounds right on regulator now!!...yes voltage should be somewhere there...13.7 V

Ok, without the Coil on, or Diodes (my set up)...could You try a regular DC Brushed Motor right off the Drain and the Positive?...let's see what it does.

Test it for High speed, starting slowly from very low pulses. You have said you tried a motor , but I am assuming it was with the Coil and diodes...

I am assuming you have same "Tank Circuit" (RC) at 555 , which is the two 1K and in the middle the 250K Pot...plus the ceramic Cap of .01?

What is the Amperage of each battery?

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hello Turion,

I am sorry I have been busy and only answering to typical problems and questions related to my post here.
I have not had the time to go over your other thread related to the DC Motor and three batteries, could you add here the direct link to it...I do not promise it would be very soon , but I will give it my best of time stretch to go there.

According to what you're saying here ...

Ok, a regular DC Brushed Motor will receive a "pulse" through the brushes-commutator contact elements to a group of coils...that configure a N-S-N-S around the armature or rotor (This is looking it in a fraction of a second that takes one single pulse). This N-S-N-S are "flashed" related to the stator which is also in an order N-S-N-S, so there would be a series of repulsion-attraction processes between them...so next "pulse" the ones that were N now are South... and so on...
This kind of processes are "too fast" for Radiant Energy EM Field to develop enough strength...it will just "flash a spike" to your system...called CEMF...
In order to gain RE Field, We, with all this specific oscillators, coils and diodes...still have to "Tune Her In" along a process of invoking from low to higher increases of frequencies over a period of time...

Resuming, and according to what you have described above...yes you are getting Radiant Spikes...but is being suddenly cut off by the reversed polarities of incoming Motor sequences...no time to develop properly...

Regards

Ufopolitics


By the way... I love your slogan's below...

Ufopolotics'
Here is the direct link to our thread.
3 Battery Generating System

I do not mean to jump into the middle of your thread. I just wanted folks to know that what you are saying about those spikes from the motor is real, and it shows up on the scope and as increased voyage in batteries. It is not a fluff charge either, because I have pulled those batteries out of the system and run loads on them. They had both voltage AND amperage. I have seen it charge batteries from 0 to 12 volts in seconds. REAL voltage. It is amazing stuff when you see it happen.

Dave

Hi Ufo,

The motor test I have mentioned was as you thought with the coil and diodes.

I have now done what you suggested and connected the motor straight to the drain and positive in place of the coil.

Test #1 - I put the setting to full on and switched on the circuit. The motor speeds up then after a few seconds the speed drops off and it stops.

Test #2 - I put the setting on low and switched on the circuit. You can hear the motor coil vibrating but it doesn't move, as I turn it up the vibrations increase but motor doesn't move even up to full as the power to it from the mosfets drops off. This is doing it real slow more than a few seconds.

The power drops off in a few seconds whether on high or low, on low it doesn't get enough power to run unless I turn it up quick, If I do it within a few seconds it speeds up then it drops off.

I have the circuit as the diagram with the two 1K resistors on each side of the 250k pot. I have two 10n (103) or .01uf ceramic capacitors one from pin 5 to ground the other from pin 2 to ground.

The batteries are 7ah.
I tested before and after a charge with exact same results.

Thanks
netica

Hello Netica,

Ok...so your oscillator is not doing its job at all,

At least we have now a good Voltage Regulator working good...

This Oscillator is actually a controller for motors...so it should run motors perfectly , I mean brushed motors, not BLDC (Brushless DC),
So there is something wrong in your oscillator part. Your MOSFET's are OK.

Netica, do me a favor...

Make a diagram STRAIGHT from your own circuit, meaning, do not even look at mine or at any other diagrams...right from your real prototype, make it and post it here...so we could see it openly and I could go over it like if I would be looking at your real set-up...

I guess that is the only way we could solve this matter from a distance or remotely...

Thanks


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

One thing I found is that I left out the 12v MOV component, between pin 4 and ground. I don't know if this will make any difference though.

netica

Hi Ufo,

I have found a mistake that I have made with the tantalum capacitor, I didn't know that they are polarized, I have checked and found it has pos to ground,
it is also only rated at 35v so may not be high enough, although I don't know if they can go over a few volts. I'll make the changes tomorrow and see what happens.

netica

Hi Ufo,

I fixed the mistake with the capacitor it's now 50v and polarized correctly. I rebuilt a new circuit to be sure.
I have tested it with a DC motor and it finally works.
I have measured the voltage at the gate and it goes from .06v to 11.3v.
I tried it on the coil, it goes but not with the magnetic power I thought it would. Not like if you connected it straight to the batteries.
I checked the frequency and found it wasn't what I expected, at the low end it it was a bit up and down, I found it mostly around 360 to 460 hertz. The old circuit did the same and was part of the reason I built another.

I connected the coil and the neon for a first test. And this is what I found.

The neon flashes a little at the low end then goes out.
As pot is turned up the neon first lights quite dim then as you turn it up it gets brighter. The circuit was stable for the first time so I could set it where I wanted and turn it on and off at any brightness.

I set it at a reasonable brightness to take some readings of power consumption of the coil.

Voltage was 3.35V
Amperage was 0.5A
That gives us 1.67 Watts.

The neon warmed up when it was on.
It is a 240volt neon rated at 24 watts.
Its hard to relate brightness but I would expect it to be a little brighter in normal use but still a pretty good result I thought.

Also the regulator was running at 38V and .015A thats another .57 Watts.
Still pretty good for 24 watt neon.

When a metal tubing core was placed inside the coil the brightness dropped by half.

Thats it for now.
netica

edit: the neon I have been mentioning was actually a floro, sorry about the mix up.
edit: the voltage on this test will be inaccurate because I have found that my meter cant keep up with the frequency.

Hello Netica,

I am very glad you have solved the problems!!, well the Oscillation problems...

Ok, let's go by "parts"...

Straight to the batteries?...Well, You are supposed to be connecting it straight to the 38 Volts output from Drain (negative) and Positive from batteries...this does feed batteries but with pulses ...
What Gauge on Coil?...How many turns?

Frequency at INPUT was 360-460 Hz, right?...How about OUTPUT Frequency (After Diodes to Lamp)?

What kind of metal?...why tubing and not solid core?...My first test was on a very solid piece of heavy steel...remember?

The Air or Tubing Cores are for other kind of oscillations....Dual Anti-phase Channels...You've just finished the Single Channel Oscillator to run properly (I guess)...So, no, it is supposed to be on a solid core...and it is suppose to increase light if everything else is fine...

I believe there is something wrong there still, when going up from low hertz...100 to 200 Hertz on INPUT...from Oscillator the neon was supposed to give you the small ball of purple light coming up down...did it do it?
It is supposed to...till you gain more frequency it goes into regular illumination, but brighter...I have used 120 Volts Neons, not 240V.

However I think you have done a lot of progress so far, and I am very glad!!

Cheers


Ufopolitics

Hey Turion,

I watched your video...and also your friend on same project.

Now, I get a vision of what you are talking about...and yes, I do understand it well what is going on there...

The Motor is a PM Brushed motor, as you have written in your posts...well, even another type..a Motor have "closed contacts" , meaning closed circuit, continuity at all times you connect it between potential...and those contacts lead to the Coils disposed inside...
Ok, what you have there is a Motor that when it is connected to the three batteries it acts like an Inductor...when NOT running, I meant...so, when the Positive from old battery is "Less Positive" or the same as "More Negative" than the Positive from the Source Batteries...it builds enough potential to develop a magnetic field inside the motor, strong enough that allows rotation...And, of course, the more loads you add to the Batteries at Source...the more "Negative" the Positive from used battery will be...so this will create a heavier EM Field on Motor...accelerating it...
Now, Radiant will flow and charge the battery...remember Radiant-Cold runs opposite to Hot current...so at the "More Negative" Positive of Hot will be Radiant Positive...and that is what charges your battery...

Actually the Old to be charged battery, works in this circuit like a Non Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor...and Your Motor is at Off (idling) as an Inductor Coil...till it starts running.

Remember there is either "Excess or Lack of electrons" what determines which one is "Positive" or "Negative"...all "relative" concepts my friend. There is always a "More positive than"...or "More Negative than..." in any electrical-electronic equation.."

Just something else I just remember...Your friends video adds a very heavy mechanical load on that motor...and then it gains power at charge up...this is completely logical...when He is loading the motor ...it slows RPM's, therefore there is more "Time On " per Coil inside motor. so more time for Radiant to flow out...
This motor is running on Linear source...not pulsed...however the commutation inside makes it "pulse"...when rotating.

To convince yourself of what am talking about...set just a Diode between the Motor and the Old Battery positive terminal...blocking positive from Battery to motor, and allowing Negative to flow instead , but allowing incoming Radiant Positive from motor to battery...and let's see what happens.

Cheers


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

As best as I can measure the frequency at the output with no coil connected is all over the place.

Turning from low to high
It starts at 480 goes down to 200 up to 350 down to 270 all in the first less than quarter turn then the rest slowly goes up to 470.
The first circuit I made done the same thing and I built a whole new one with all new parts except the mosfets and resistors connected to the mosfets.
So I can't run it at 100 hertz

When connected to the coil the voltage goes up from 0 to 34.

The coil is .9mm diameter thats around 19AWG and is 6ohms
I think theres around 1200 turns

I don't know the type of the tubing I used however I also tried transformer material with the same dimming effect.

netica

Hi Ufo,

I have tested the mosfets with a separate voltage to the gate to see how the coil energizes through the mosfets without the circuit.
And it was quite powerful magnetically much more than with the circuit.
And the neon flashes with each disconnect.

netica

Hey,

I've been trying to replicate Romeros selfrunning wheel for some time now. I havn't got it selfrunning obviously (Romero released further information about how he did it), but what I have might share similarities to what ufo is presenting.

Let me explain: I am pulsing what originally is a driving coil in my setup with a NPN transistor with the help of a hall sensor. The hall sensor is placed close to the coil and seems to pick up the coils magnetic field resulting in fast oscillation. At this time my input drops from around 1A to 100mA (15V in) but the coils voltage is 60V peak to peak at a frequency of about 200kHz (well above audible range) measured with a scope!

Now with the two diodes method I've got my motor running very efficiently. Maybe just a little more than 1 watt input. I am using two fast switching Schottky diodes to collect the oscillation output. I connected the diodes like shown in this thread (thanks to ufopolitics). I am feeding the output to a second driving coil which is creating one spike to just overcome the drag. The second coil is also catching some of the oscillations from the first coil.

Happy with the result. I've made a short video.

Thanks ufo for a possible explanation and especially your free sharing, it is clear now that our minds keep blocking us from what's possible. We are trapped on the hot side and in our conventional way of thinking. Know-it-all attitude is bull****. People are getting demotivated by this kind of crap. Everybody can contribute and everyone is welcome. People should work together and show respect for each other. We would go well beyond more rapidly.

Chal

Hello Netica,

Number one- Your Coil is too small of center diameter. Too small for Radiant Energy Field to thrive over an overwhelming outer field from Hot. Have to widen the center to -at least- 30 mm.
Forgot to tell me the length of coil, but I imagine with 1200 T of 19 AWG...is pretty long unless it "grows" in diameter.

Did You look at my last video?
DEFINING RADIANT ENERGY FIELD (Part 1) - YouTube

It shows VERY CLEAR that Radiant Energy is located, exactly, at center of Coil.

You have to be "Sure" how many turns you have, That's TOO many turns....Too much Resistance..
Are You using an Inductor already made for this test?

Originally I gave the spec's of my original Coil Diameter...close to two inches core Internal Diameter...I also gave the amount of turns (120 X 3 Layers of 18 Gauge, that means a Total of 360 Turns) that is around one quarter of the Total turns "you think" your coil have... and I really do not understand , if You are "replicating" something, How come could you do it with so much difference between my spec's and "still" expect to render same results as mine??

The Output frequency is meant to be read WITH COIL ON...and , of course Diodes also...otherwise it will be crazy...
Once you have set up your diodes on...and you start oscillating without a LAMP or load at the other end....it will result in overheating of your MOSFET's and the whole circuit.

You still have something wrong with oscillations going to Gates...It should do exactly the same thing by turning the Pot slowly...exactly the same thing as when you manually "disconnect it"...flash the neon and have lots of power (magnetically) on Coil...

Check on the Gates Biasing circuit with resistors to ground, I believe they are 47 K each one from gate to ground...It seems your circuit is NOT making a full disconnect of MOSFET's at T-Off...If you had a Scope you should be able to read that "Drop Off" what it looks like...it should be "COMPLETELY" vertical down...otherwise it will not work out...
MOSFET's needs a resistor to ground from Gate, (N-Channels) that is what makes them turn off completely when 555 signal is High, as a spring in a Relay, otherwise they will "dim" voltage, or create a triangular wave...never Off completely. Now, if you are using the SAME MOSFET's I specified then the biasing resistor Gate-Ground is the same as mine...any other MOSFET's I have no idea which value resistor will turn them off completely.

I am trying to help you Netica, but if you "assume" your own spec's, then I have double work...dealing with the typical errors in your circuit, plus trying for you to stay also with the spec's I gave a long time ago...it will take Us a pretty long time that I do not really have...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Thank You Chalamadad!!

Thanks for posting here your positive results based on my original set up...I am very glad you have gotten it running better than ever before!

Also thanks for the grateful words...most people don't "come back" to express them here along with results, where they originally got the ideas...and get "lost"...like many have debuted (landed) and then exited here like a UFO leaving the Galaxy...

Thanks again

Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

Unfortunately I have not been able to get the circuit to work properly, I haven't been able to get the frequency to work correctly, I don't know why so I have put it aside for now and built this one RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Power Pulse Controller
I hope this circuit will be good enough. Could you let me know what you think. I have got this going first time, with this you can adjust the frequency and the duty cycle.

I tested it with a bulb and dc brushed motor and it seems to work well. I connected it to my coil and the 555 and comparater blow after a few pulses, I have simply replaced them for it to work again but this will need some sort of circuit protection. If there is something I could do to protect the circuit could you please show me, although it may be ok when I try it with the coil you have specified to build but I don't know yet.

Don't be to bothered about me using the wrong coil I was just using something I had lying around to try the circuit out. Now I have something working ( or at least quite close ) I can start work on the coil.
I will try to make the coil around 50mm inside diameter. I would like to know how close the steel core needs to be to the coil. I intend at this time to wind the coil on a plastic tube then put a core inside. The core will likely be some sort of mild steel if that is ok. How much gap can I get away with for it to work, or does the coil need to be wound straight on to the metal core.
I will be using 19AWG is that OK ? it is .1mm smaller diameter than 18AWG.
Does it mater if it is wound clockwise or counter clockwise?
I will wind continual 3 layers 120 turns each layer.

Please don't get to upset with me but I just couldn't get that circuit to work after building it twice I just don't know why. I don't mean to waste any of your time, and always appreciate your help and advice. And if you think this new circuit will not be any good please let me know.

Thanks Netica

Hello Netica,

I believe that circuit is the one Kaper brought over here to Us. I like it, however it is more complicated as the one (mine) You were trying to replicate...and still it needs the Voltage regulator.
It uses a separate Comparator than the 555 intrinsic one, and I guess it performs better as an isolated, dedicated for that purpose component.
I have not tried that circuit, but I do want to build it, I also made some comments about adjusting it to Dual Channels...by using the other comparator Input-Output B.


I am not upset Netica...I just feel unable and helpless to be able to help you achieve a good oscillator.

The core could be with a plastic one (I use Fiberglass cores that I make myself , using as a mold the steel bar I am to use...and also PVC tubing...) then you could "enhance" its magnetic properties by adding the bar of steel, heat it up to red flaring (500 to 700 F)...and cold water...to make it loose its magnetic memory, and isolate it from the rest of any other outer core that could bring flux from your oscillating pulses electromagnetic field. So, just make the steel bar the same length of Coil, not expanding , sticking out of Coil limits.
The steel bar should be as close as possible to the walls of your plastic inner walls...but have some "play", a very small air gap, so it could slide in-out easily.

It really does not matter how you wind it, as long as you know the magnetic orientation and where the positive-negative terminals goes to make that happen,...and write it down on the core. That is very important to be sure, when it comes to set your diodes opposite to the flow of your pulsed current.

I always mark Positive and North next to it, when I start to wind up a Coil, on the top, going Clockwise...Now, that is my "Hot Positive" current coming in from oscillator...Then Diode on that Positive goes like:
(+ Hot) l< To Radiant Negative...and Negative terminal of Coil : (- Hot) >l To Positive of Radiant.

If you have no idea where positive or negative goes to make upper North or South pole...then how are you gonna set the diodes?...and how would you be able to test that inside the core there is a magnetic field of opposite polarity?
Besides also knowing where is your induced current in a Secondary...but that is not your case...so let's keep it simple for now.

Regards

Ufopolitics

hi netica,

use your circuit from rmcybernetics, just isolate the fet with it's own powersupply. I'm using a jfet from a projection tv, rated at 72 amps and 500v, .15us., I built circuit for my Don Smith attempt,

IMAG0157.jpg

ufo,

I built your circuit and it lit four 125 volt neons very brightly, a placed a 10 nf, 400v cap on cold side of diodes and it was much stronger.
5.2 watts ( 10.4 v, .5a) input, (380v, .003a)1.14 watts on cold side. But the cool part is it lights on the cold side very brightly, I fried one by itself.

I do not have a scope (yet), sorry.
I only have red neons so I can't make out the purple glow.

tried a silver core with two rolls of silver dimes but not much different maybe a little better light.

Will try your double coil next, and I will get a fan motor to try.

Also am gonna try this in Don's circuit when I get a chance.

Thanks for your info ufo, also would like to build your little motor with the led, that was very smart, well done.

thug

@thugugly or ufo
What is the frequency the 555 needs to generate?
I tried several frequencies such as 270Hz and 330Hz.
The lamp is flickering but I do not get the radiant energy in..
Bert

ps. I adjusted the 555 circuit since I couldn't find a 250k var. resistor.

bbem

Now I'm using a 2 nf cap which should have a range of about 1 khz to 85 khz, but it also worked with a 220 nf which should of had a range of 10 Hz to 600 Hz.
My measurements were taken with the 2 nf.
Sorry, but I can't tell you the exact frequency, no scope.

Thug

bbem

You must have an old vcr or something around that you could hack for a variable resistor.
There everywhere!

Thug

@thugugly and ufo
Thanks for the info/help.
Glad that your circuits are working!

With the PWM driver of UFO we can manipulate the duty cycle at a fixed frequency (286 Hz?).
Since I changed the var. resistor (to 100k) and couldn't reproduce the effect, I was looking for the exact frequency of UFO's/your circuits.
Note: I am using diodes with 48ns recovery time.

Bert

Hey Thug,

That was great!!
I am glad you have improved the circuit with the Cap with better results!
But mainly, thanks for coming back here and sharing your results with Us.

You could try the motor right off the primary also, and will notice a smooth acceleration as you tune up.

Also measure your consumption at the Input.

Just one question, what are your Coil spec's?...gauge and turns and resistance?
You are using pretty low voltage at input, so, should compensate Coil spec's accordingly.

Great, I am looking forward to your new testings!

Thanks, that little motor proved that there is NOT just ONE field, but TWO, another one of opposite direction-timing, and of much stronger effect, as well as showing there is an Induction in static mode, due to the changing fields, as it made Us understand Radiant "space" a bit better.

I am working on reviving-re-designing an old motor-generator from Nikola Tesla...but adapting this diodes set-up.

That was smart to add the Caps, it helps retain radiant in your cold side, great improvement!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello Bbem,

Unfortunately, you need a Pot, a Variable resistor to "Tune" Radiant In.
Radiant does NOT just come in at a given static-fix frequency, it depends on your set-up, and everyone is different, now, once you have Radiant on, then measure frequency and then it could be brought in at that specific one.

Radiant comes in as you increase frequency, you will be able to find the "right starting spot", the range where Radiance starts coming in your circuit, and then move forward to obtain brighter-higher gain results.

Until we find a perfect square wave design as progression and shape goes, it has to be tuned in.

You will get Radiant, don't be disappointed!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

@Ufo
Thanks for your swift reply.
I am using a variable resistor (multi turn) of 100k.
Was thinking that I needed to use a specific frequency.
My guess is I need to find the answer in the proper choice of MosFET and diodes.
Bert

Hello Bbem,

Ok, a 100k linear not the "audio" type...
And if you use that resistance value, then you should play with higher than 1K end resistors between V.R...
I will give you a hint...but please do not tell anyone here...

I use trimmers (small variable resistors, board mounted) as the resistors side to side of V.R Pot...and I adjust them at the right resistance, before turning ON the system!!...BUT NEVER below 1K!!...or you will blow the 555 IC...

I mentioned this "hint" in a previous post...there are no secrets here.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello Thugugly,

I have two Extech digital meters that measure Hertz...and also two Radio Shack's Amperage Clamp meters...that do it also...you do not need a Scope.

They are not that cheap though...Extech's go for like $100 ea...and RS around $50.00...but much less than a Scope

Cheers


Ufopolitics