really looking forward to see more about ufopolitics motor.

very interesting development there.. as for the solid state pulsing of coils, im still confused as to what is being done differently there than other similar circuits such as a joule thief or bedini.. i understand there is an alteration with the diode along the positive input rail, but other than that, im trying to figure out how it really differs from any pulser outputting spikes of similar voltage.
neons can be easily fried and bulbs ran underwater with normal blocking oscillators so can someone help explain the major differences here, at least regarding the separation of cold and hot electricity?

is there a form of electromagnetic radiation that simply falls into a separate category of EM radiation?

Kogs
with the reg and occ and fet setup all hooked up do you still have at least 2 volts on occ output. If so then follow up to gate and see where it goes below 2 volts. The problem may be there, such as too much resistance.
Dana

G'Day Dana
My wife wont like this But I Just have to give you a big
My problem all along has been the resistor connecting the Oscillator to the mosfet circuit it should have been 10k but I only had 100R
Like I said before I think it is just the nut on the end of the soldering Iron

I am really pleased with the people on this list every one is patient and wants to help even the NumSkulls

Tomorrow I will connect the coil and the CLF bulb then I can start to

I think this is this the way to hook it up at least this is the way I see it
Please If you would just check it over for me to see If I am correct



Thanks a million to all those who have helped me

Regards

The setup looks good. Getting the CFL to go is sometimes tricky the first time. Work in a dim lite room and touch the CFL which sometimes helps. Once you get the nack, it will lite every time.

Kogs, just give your wife the Hug as she has been the one who has been your greatest help.
Dana

Quote: "First, if you have 2.5 volts to the gate, that part should work."
This holds true only for some special FETs! Depending on the type you use you should rise the gate / source voltage up to 6 Volt minimum better 10V in order to have full ON channel state at drain / source. The requested min. VGS can be found in the data sheets.
Example:


You can see at this example the dependence of VGS / IGS and temperature. At 2.5 V you have some conductance but a garanteed death zone if applying more current. There is another graph wehre they state that at 2.5 V and 1A there are 6V at FET DS = 6Watt dissipation for nothing than a dirty shortcut!

Every individual type has a special behaviour. So consult the data sheets in order to not fry your FETs. The problem is if you do not control the gate right the resistance of the conductive channel DG increases but not overall - the condictive channel gets smaller. (imagine a houer glass with variaable constriction in teh middle part) So the increasing heat concentrates on a smaller volume in the center of the DS channel.
A 12V swing for FET control is a good ans secure choice for nearly all FETs available.

There is another view to the FET control. The gate contains a capacitor of about 1nF. The faster it is charged the less heat and the more OU. At minimum voltage the chraging / discharging procedure takes long time and the probability of FET death increases considerably.

I hope you understand that sonversely from transistors at a FET many parameters lead to heat death if not controlled properly. Many of you experienced this - but learn from this!

If you want to have success please do not take shortcuts at this item! Do it right first time!

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

Hi JohnStone
I am learning so much about fets from you and although I sometimes do not understand all that you say, little by little it is making sence to me.
What I was thinking about was how to get Kogs base voltage up a little for better function. I think that that would be in decreasing the resistance somewhare back in the occilator area. Now, just for fun, in the diagram that Kogs has shown, where might one start to get this done.
We do not want Kogs to blow anything else today. I know just enough to be dangerous and would probably guide him wrong. I will however learn the correct way to do this myself, from you, so as to better set my systems.

Thanks Dana

Hi prochiro,
I kow, I know how lost you feel in these matters. Now let's see what I can do for you!

Oh: Move the switch from GND to + lead. Disconnecting GND can destroy a lot of values you possibly can't replace!

1. First of all the question: what measurement tools do you have. A DVM is less than basic. Look for the good links from Larry regarding the soundcard oscilloscope. Another member suggested additionally an external sound/USB device for input in order to protect your PC from accidental damage. That is an extremely good tool for exactly this task. Focus on it.
Please take in account that this crcuit is the beginning only - later circuits get more complicated and it will pay very soon if you take effort in this direction.


2. You shoud learn, that it is very important to isolate functional units for test and examination. Perhaps you remember my circuit suggested - was devided in individual measurable circuits. Step by step they can be added up to a functioning oscillator.

2a:It does not matter that you have another circuit but please examine your oscillator first. You should know it to be functioning and not guess. No blind flight please!
If you have no oscilloscope please account for this voltage peak detector. I hope you understand it. You get after short time the maximum voltage of your oscillator output - independently of frequency and duty cycle. Imagine: You dip a bowl (capacitor) in water and it will be filled after a while to exactly the same level (voltage) of the water outside. You need to poor the water out in order to take another measurement.


2b: Examine the FET stage before you connect the oscillator. As I mentioned above it is essential for FET health to get it controlled right. If not - it will be killed.
Imagine: You grab with bare hands a fast moving rope. You will burn your fingers! This how a FET feels if you push much current (rope) through the drain /source channel (grabbing fingers) if not controlled right.
If you have suffitient gate voltage it is like the same rope moving through a wide metallic ring (drain source channel again). Mostly no friction, good guide for the rope.
As I mentioned above you should not be content below 8 or 10 Volt.
BTW: What FET do you use, I will tell you what voltage to apply - minimum.
Now, how to test the FET stage?
Put the coil apart for now and use a resistor instead as load. You can calculate the current depending of your voltage. Start with 1 A (12V / 12Ohm or 24V 24Ohm)

• Connect the resistor directly to the battery and measure the current.
• Connect a LED with a 1K resistor in parallel to the resistor. It will go on if you reconnect the assembly to your battery. The same will do the FET later on.
• Build the assembly above with FET in series. See schematic
• Connect a 10K pot to 12 V and measure the varying voltage at the wiper.
• Connect the assembly to the FET (wiper = gate / GND to source)
• Increase V3 up to the minimum V2. Now you have the minimum voltage for driving 1A at this current temperature. (Operate circuit short time only because of heat)
• Similar measurement with more current - check voltage necessary
• Check with coil (1 Ohm) again -> for very short time

Now you have educarted yourself and know what your FET stage is capable of.

3. NOW: You are ready for connecting your oscillator -> BUT: start with 1Amp and LED again and perform the steps above with oscillator.

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

Boy, you said a mouthfull there. Thanks from me and Kogs.