Originally Posted by Bizzy

Hi Ufoolitics
Ok thanks for the advice. I made a 200 turn coil with a hollow steel/zinc core like blackchisel described. I am going to order more magnet wire today so I can make a bifiliar coil as well as an air core coil. It is my hope to be able to compare them side by side then share my results using my machine.
Thanks
Bizzy

Originally Posted by blackchisel97

Hello Bizzy, I was sure you're asking about Watson device. My advice with hollow core and number of turns was addressed to that, not the subject of this thread.
I tried several different coils and cores except what Matt described, which is also similar to the casting of magnetite cores with strong magnets at each end during curing process. What I believe is that the coil should have about 50-60 Ohms to keep input current low.
I got distracted for the past couple of days with testing scalar poles.

Thanks
Vtech

Originally Posted by kapierenundkopieren

Hello everyone!

I was looking for a better 555 timer with separated frequency and pulse width pots and I found this little circuit:
RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Signal Generator with Pulse Width Modulation
also here:
RMCybernetics - DIY Homemade Power Pulse Controller

I did a simulation with it and it goes nicely from 15Hz to 500kHz, if you push it it goes up to 2Mhz, but the pulse width adjustment is not good at high frequencies.
This circuit should be good enough for our radiant energy research.

...there are 4 switches in the picture because there was no rotary switch for the simulation...

Originally Posted by Ufopolitics

First, I would like to say hello to all of you, I am new to this site, so take it "easy" on me... I was referred here to expose about my findings by Mr. Peter Lindeman. Who I admire much, and got to read his articles out there on the web and agree with him in a complete way in his ways of thinking related to Free Energy.
To tell you first and briefly about me...I have been involved in Electro Dynamics since 1989, and have developed many different types of Motors and Generators from structural different embodiments, to the fields of electronics controllers and source converters of such machines.
In other words, I am not a newbie on this, Therefore, I do not make the typical errors and omissions of readings Parameters Required, or analysis of behaviors of related issues, getting or leading to the Wrong Conclusions... that's not me, I mean, I am not perfect either, We humans all make mistakes.

So here I go about this:

While developing one of the Types of Motors Generators Designs, I have been recently working on, and building different prototypes sizes (smalls, mediums and large), I was finding certain readings containing abnormal current behavior. And this type of Motor-Generator do makes more at output than what they get In. However, my point in this thread is not about the discussion of this Motors, but, I will tell you that I use the Counter EMF completely on assistance of the rotation, not against, like Physics says it always must, and that would be "impossible". This Motors are based on permanent magnets(PM) and Brush-Commutator DC types. And this is just as the development move into a higher stage, they will use other type of switching systems.
However, I had too intense sparks and got shocked outside its frame when I made contact with my hands and accidentally, touched one of the outputs terminals while in motion...I was working with a 36 volts machine...around 6.3 Amps Lipo Batteries, small prototype...so, NO, it could not be such high shocks from higher currents, even the output been over 80 Volts...still the amperage was remaining around the input parameters...to get that kind of Transients Sparks.
So, I started this search on them...trying to correct the problem and also the curiosity to find this wired source of energy...but then I found that I could create very Heavy Sparks and very robust and continuous by getting the two terminals I was shocked with, to short out...
Then, I took them apart again, went to my CAD programs, sketches, the 3D Animations...of Coils, Stators to Commutators relations...I mean dissect them in pieces.
And I really do not like to keep on going on the research part narration (basically because you will love for me to get to the point... ) and it was a lot of reproductions I made replicating the exact models, but at Static Configurations...
When I finally found the "Issue" I could not believe it...
My Motors-Generators (meaning 'essentially' their Rotor Coil Structure to Commutator via Brushes) were developing a "Behind my Wires" secondary electricity of a very ,extremely powerful characteristics running through them, at all times. Then I realized and understood, the times when I turned off completely the Oscillations of my Controller (I was using a Drain (Motor Negative) based on an N-Channel MOSFET's arrangement that I had designed and built) so that was impossible!...once that I turned off my oscillator chip from the Regulator side that feeds it, it kills,cuts, every single current coming from Source...and a small Electrolytic Cap was set on Input only, before Voltage Regulator stage. However it "literally" melted a heavy duty Mica-Copper Commutator to almost fuse it with the next ones. Before getting to this discovery, I would have never, figure it out what happened there.
This type of motor design have many characteristics that others in the market do not have, one of them is the fact of Never needing to Reverse the Electromagnetic Fields Polarity in order to achieve rotation, the fields just Turn Off or Turn On, according to the Oscillator Signals, and I achieve this, by the Coils Design inside of them. This design allows that at T-Off of the Square Wave (Circuit Opens) Rotor Idles, and keep going for nano seconds by inertia and the last magnetic interaction residues to the other Stator Pole where then is reversed "naturally" or by what The Physics call Back Electromotive Force, and this is How the C EMF Assist instead of "Oppose" to rotation.
This particular design allows the current to flow in a very organized and friendly flow that makes the consumption reduced to minimum values when rotation is constant, and even in higher acceleration times.
Not like anything else out there, where currents are in a complete War one against each other inside this Machines, whether being a DC, Brushed or Brushless or any AC Type, that because of the current natural behavior stays constantly colliding into each others at Positive- Negative Cycles.
Then I read Mr. Tom Bearden...about the Dipole Open, and all about the Free Energy concepts out there...and Nikola Tesla back in the 1800's tapping into Radiant Energy...and kept going..till I got to the essence of my Discovery...Then I could Not even believe it myself...what was what I was getting there.
I know many of you are going to laugh, I laughed myself...I did research the history all, my friends, because I do not like just to get my Lab results naked outside...I went all the way to Maxwell equations...to Lorentz changes of the Asymmetrical fields along with Albert Einstein...where they disregarded the Aether as been part of the Interchange with the Electromagnetic fields...then the Electric Engineering took a wrong course towards building the best way to keep killing this energy...to keep teaching new Engineers this are Parasitical and Transient currents We All have to Kill by "Choke", by Flywheel Diodes and Snubbers, and as many "Patches" (just to cite a few) as they could get their hands on.
But I will get here to the very bottom of this...discussion, or may I say 'Disclosure'?... I had found, it has always been 'present' between Us all, in every coil of enameled wire, in every inductor, in every Transformer, Motor, Generator, no matter type, or design...The Main Laws of Electrodynamics were sold to Evil...and we all believe them, we swallowed them...
And I really feel I am putting my knowledge and experience of many years at doubt here...with what I am about to reveal, and please, at any time I am trying to minimize, or underestimate the work of so many bright Scientists we have and had, and Engineers, developers, as all of You here, like me, looking for the Fountain of the Radiant Energy, The Cold Electricity or the Divine Force of Nature converted for our use as Energy Source...
It is the Counter Electromagnetic Force, the Back EMF, the one who "Opposes" very conveniently to our motors and generators desired motion sense...so we have no other choice than to keep using the Gas or Diesel Engines as Prime Movers to Generators...And Motors that do not have the way to compete to the fast and reliable Gas New Engines.
To all of You that are into Lab and practice work...that like to make your own things...solder, cut make weld..make electronic diagrams and form great circuits...that actually you do not need that much knowledge, really...just to make an Oscillator a Coil of wire (Core less [Plastic]is better than solid or laminated steel, but they will also work) and I will answer the reason why, during the thread on the comments) a couple of Fast Switching diodes...Meters, Digital Oscilloscopes(if you have it, if not some meters reads Hertz, you do need at least Two)...and let's do a very simple test...
Hook Up the Diodes to the Coil Inputs (No Secondary for Now, it works great with a secondary, actually even better, but for sake of simplicity, as a test only lets do it Simple)
The Diodes will be at BOTH ENDS of Coil, make sure you know which side is North and South at Core, according to turns sense (Right Hand Rule)...Ok, the Diodes are there to Block our Input to get out, so we "Input" our Positive-Negative Oscillating Signal before Both Diodes (DIRECT TO COIL), and we read outputs from outer diodes end...What they do besides blocking our current out, is filter our Radiant Energy from our transients, and parasites (hehe, the other way around right?)
Then set readers anywhere to monitor this system, set the Hertz Meters on Your Input Signal (before diodes) and also would be good to monitor your consumption with a Volts meter and Also the same Volts-Hertz at Output (make sure your meters have "Over Load Capabilities" (I melted a few chinese ones) or you will fry them, basically at output. Read Batteries or Power Source, and have ready a Load, I use Fluorescent BULBS (Self Ballasted) 120 Volts...65 Watts or Higher...or less, just be very careful when tuning the oscillations Up, or you will blow them, and they contain Mercury (Hg) not good for Human body...Now , according to the set up each one have..would be different, but I used Batteries, Lipo or Lithium Ion 3 packs would be like 36 volts (I have tons of Chargers and this batteries,...but others are fine too, I also used regular Lead Acid, even better they get charged within the system, since you guys and gals are gonna make "Overunity" here.
Below I will post a Rough Diagram I did to show my friends in Facebook and You Tube...
I will be here to answer any questions.
Thanks for reading me and excuse me for writing such a long post!!...but I wanted to express my knowledge, and how I got to this by complete accident... before dumping this 'Bomb' on you all!!
Have a nice evening

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=3&theater

Originally Posted by Netica

Hi Ufo,

I have 3 questions I would like to ask.


1- Just wondering about these diodes you spoke of in post 49 -

"And yes, I do know about the intrinsic diode on MOSFET's...in my circuits I always use an extra one right next to each MOSFET's of the Parallel Bank, since they are not as strong as a dedicated component specifically for those reasons..."

These diodes don't seem to be on the circuit diagram. Do they need to be included or are they not needed?


2- What is the purpose of the 50v 1000uf capacitor, and I suppose a 63v one would be ok to use?


3- I am also trying to understand the diagram with the red and blue arrows, showing the flow of hot electricity with red arrow and cold electricity with the blue arrow.
I understand that the diodes keep out the hot electricity, but it looks as if the cold electricity flows through the diodes as if they are not there. I can only assume that the diodes have no effect on cold electricity in the way that you are trying to show.

Am I correct in this understanding?


Thanks
netica

Originally Posted by PRECURSOR

Hi Pal,

It very impresive to hear your story of self Discovery on Radiant Energy...it is nothing like it (imagine being Tesla when he all alone discovered it in an Internet less world!!! I'm sure you would have been succesfully able to de-code most of the Patents based on the Radiant Energy (Bedini, Stan Meyer, E.V Gray of course!) these peolpe are more than just an epitome of the new realm of SCIENCE. I worship there works and so do i to my own.
any way, would keep in touch with you and discuss on my development in my work as it progresses.
Bye PRECURSOR

Originally Posted by kapierenundkopieren

@Ufopolitics

Hello Ufopolitics. Well the rise and fall time limit of the 555 timer is 100ns (as you see it on my picture).
You got me thinking, so I checked the rise/fall time at 528Hz (the frequency of your original circuit) and found out that the rise/fall time is rather big - 5us (microseconds). Your original circuit had a rise/fall time a bit more than 1us (microsecond) at 528 Hz.
So it's like you said - will have to test it. I hope it works OK.

Originally Posted by DilJalaay

Hello,
I found a video on you-tube where a Russian guy explaining the same circuit.

shematic free energy - YouTube



p.s: can any one translate it?

Regs.

Originally Posted by kapierenundkopieren

Hello Ufopolitics!

I'm very curious about your dual anti-phase channels idea. Can you make a scheme about how the N-channel and P-channel mosfets would work?
Thanks!

Originally Posted by wingstalysis

Greetings, ufoplanet,
Thankyou for taking the time to post, and its a shame that you have had to deal with some unpleasantness. I realise that their are many know it all techies on here with closed minds, but also many who are quite the opposite. It would have been a great shame, and loss if you had fallen pray to the negative ones'. I have a little electronic background from the Air force and thereafter, but it is only recently I've been involved with Zero Point Energy. I personally do not care to get into how it all works beneath the surface, as its far too complicated and not necessary. No more than I need to know how to use a TV etc. I admire all who have the gift as in yourself. You started this thread off with reference to a DC motor. I would greatly appreciate if you would share information on how I can use radiant energy for the the DC motor in my Mobility Scooter so that it and the batteries give me greater range, and can be charged at the same time. Please point me in the correct direction with circuit diagrams, and parts etc. I am looking into Bidini chargers, and relay charger systems, but am looking for something I can simply build and is efficient. I wonder if you are an ET...I Am? Thanks for all you've shared, and take it easy,
Wings

Originally Posted by fathershand

Hey Ufopolitics, I am really excited by the work that you are doing here. Please keep going!! We really need your help in cracking the cold electricity code.

Thanks for everything.
Tony

Originally Posted by Ufopolitics

Hello Wingstalysis,

...

Now, to run it with Radiant Energy if you have a brushed motor is relatively simple, all you need is a Primary-Secondary Coil of same wiring as your motor gauge...rated for your supply system (V-A). I would say that depending at the configuration of how many brushes, [if it has four or two] then you could figure out the turn ratio per contact of brushes-commutator to rotor coils, in order to build your coil accurately. Then, run the motor out of the Secondary-Primary (After Diodes) both in series of your new coil...You will get super power, the motor will run very cold to freezing levels.. and enough power to run a built in "smart new style charger" . NOT the type that have a One Ton of Steel, Transformer on it, but the light and modern switching chargers.

Actually all you have done, is to run the motor with what Physics call Back EMF, yes, "PURE Back EMF"...We took -this time- the "Parasitical" Hot Electricity out of our System...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Originally Posted by Ufopolitics

Hey Fathershand,

My pleasure!...Yes, eventually We will crack it...I had done it already, just waiting to hear from some guys who were doing my replications...

I have achieved incredible results...but like everything, there is always trouble, problems finding specific materials, components and equipments...Which actually tells me I am on the "Right Track"...

Now I am having trouble with the Core of a Coil am building...just because the center fine 5/8 steel core is overheating due to excessive high frequency oscillating opposite magnetic fields galore...Today I just Torch the heck out of it, to almost melt it...and submerged in cold water in order to crystallize it , to make it loose its saturation or magnetic 'memory'...will see results tonight.

The "Ideal Core" for this application would be a Nano Crystalline type of Ferromagnetic core...but no luck finding it in a near by store...

But will keep going...results as outputs are wonderful other than the heating problem. And I could add Heat sinks, or a small fan...but that is not a scientific solution...just a patch...

Thanks!

Ufopolitics

Originally Posted by fathershand

Hey Ufopolitics, would you please give a little hand drawing explaining the above . If I had that it would be easier to visualize what you are saying. I would like to build a small test motor using a car radiator fan motor as the electric motor. It's 12V, but I don't know the amount of amps it draws. I think the coil windings are 18AWG, but I'll have to look to make sure. I believe that it has two brushes.

Thanks so much!

Tony

Originally Posted by fathershand

Regarding the coil core: I'm sure that you already know this, but maybe it's worth repeating here. The core from most transformers, i.e., E-core is made from a metal that becomes magnetic when the current is on, but does not retain its magnetism when the current is off. Maybe you could cut up an E-core to use for your coil.

Thanks for your time.
Tony

Originally Posted by fathershand

Oh, ufopolitics, thank you so much for this!! I am starting to look for the components to make a test. I hope that you will have time to answer some newbie questions.

In your experience, how much drain will the battery sustain? In other words, will the battery "last" twice as long? I know that you can't give an exact answer, just give your experience, please.

Thanks you again!
Tony

Originally Posted by Bob Smith

UFO,
You mentioned,
Would it be possible to use 2 or 3 large ferrite beads, stacked on end? E believe every computer monitor power cord here in Canada has to have one; not sure about US.
FWIW
-Enjoying the posts and all the fine R&D.
Bob

Originally Posted by Ufopolitics

Hello Wingstalysis,

Well, there is a bit of info needed in your Scooter spec's...So I could direct you to the right paths...If it is a BLDC (Brush-less DC) Motor, there is not much I could do for you...but if it is a Brushed Motor I could help you. Then I would need the Voltage-Amps supply and the type of Controller it has (Brand-Model, Voltage-Amps and C.L (Current Limiting) ratings.
I had designed and built an specific Motor for a Bosch-Badsey Scooter...used to be 24 V 33 A System, dual gel batteries...and I got to run it with 36V 6.3 A...out of a 3Pack R/C Electric Helicopter LiPo batteries...for much longer time than the heavy lead acid-gel batteries...actually you could stick this batteries in your pocket.

I used exactly the same controller I have in this post...The typical controllers are built with a Heavy 'Fire Wall' against Back EMF...that would not apply here...it will overheat something in my type of system...batteries or motor...not good.

Now, to run it with Radiant Energy if you have a brushed motor is relatively simple, all you need is a Primary-Secondary Coil of same wiring as your motor gauge...rated for your supply system (V-A). I would say that depending at the configuration of how many brushes, [if it has four or two] then you could figure out the turn ratio per contact of brushes-commutator to rotor coils, in order to build your coil accurately. Then, run the motor out of the Secondary-Primary (After Diodes) both in series of your new coil...You will get super power, the motor will run very cold to freezing levels.. and enough power to run a built in "smart new style charger" . NOT the type that have a One Ton of Steel, Transformer on it, but the light and modern switching chargers.

Actually all you have done, is to run the motor with what Physics call Back EMF, yes, "PURE Back EMF"...We took -this time- the "Parasitical" Hot Electricity out of our System...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Originally Posted by Ufopolitics

Hello Bob Smith,

Well, I don't know about those ferrite beads...The core am working on is relatively small...It is 5/8 inches OD and 2 1/4 Inches long...and could be even shorter...it is the strongest area where the RE Interactions take place within the primary...

But I am building some cores...with steel dust collected from my work on the Coil Fins...broiled up to perfection then frozen...set over a bed of high temp resin...and carbon fibers running along...doesn't it sounds appetizing ..hehe??

Anyone have any suggestions what else could I add to this delicious plate??...


Cheers

Ufopolitics