"Charge rate is often denoted as C or C-rate and signifies a charge or discharge rate equal to the capacity of a battery in one hour." from Wikipedia. So 3C means it can be charged 3 times as fast as it's 1 hour capacity or if talking discharge it can safely be discharged at that rate.

__________________
There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

You can get them at Hobby shops...they are used in electric drive systems for R/C cars and planes...If you're unfamilier with them, get shop to help you understand. They can be dangerous if not use properly... as in big fire.

Morning Everyone,

I am new here, if I can put my 2 cents in?

UFOPolitics Circuit is just a simple circuit, not a half H Bridge or anything. Really a single Fet on the Ve- side of the coil should do exactly the same as his circuit. Make it low RDS as you can find, check the datasheets on the part, like was already pointed out.

I tend to agree with EMJunkie, you no doubt as I have played with this circuit and variants of it for ever! I also think the secret here is in the Coil and the Diode's connecting the coils!

The Voltage Regulator could easily be replaced by a standard 12V Regulator with a 50K, 2 watt resistor behind it! If the circuit youre using is not working that you have tried to replicate. There is quite obviously a resonance there also. So by finding the Coil resonance and having this coil/set of coils connected this way should yield the same results!

Anyway, thats my 2 cents worth. Good Luck!

may The Light be with you!

This actually jogged a memory - I saw this quite a few years back: Catching Radiant Energy
This is the same circuit - 2 x Diodes on the output here also.

may The Light be with you!

Hello The Light!

Hey that was more than 0.02 cents my friend!!

Yes, that is the circuit, I mean like you´ve said before and I have repeated here also, there is not much at all about the oscillator-controller that I had brought over on a Single N-Channel MOSFET, except that it could be regulated from low Hertz...
I have 'moved' to a better oscillator based on Dual Antiphase Channels, One High Side P-Channel and a Low side N-Channel. Excellent results, much better response from Radiant and easier to manipulate. Idk if you have ever played with a type of oscillator like that, but it is not a Half or a Full Bridge configuration.
I have not moved forward into that Oscillator waiting for the members finishing their replication on the first model. Do not want to complicate things.
Now talking about the circuit and the explanation of your link above:
There are a couple of things I do not agree with what He says about the Coil:
1- It should not be made of fine wire...I mean the primary, I had much better results with a Dual Strand of wire 18 Gauge turning 660 on an OD of about 1 1/2 Inch. However, the original was even less turns (360) and a heavy steel core.
2-Second, I do not agree on keeping the resistance as high as possible...All this will lead to a High Voltage with very low amp values...On Secondaries you could do that, not on primary. My Coils have between 2-4 Ohms (Primary Now) secondaries are higher.
I had done this spec's testings with no big of a deal outputs.
However, I read the guy is playing with only 12V supply and Milli-amps .
According to my concept, a Scope will "read" anything, even a turned on Fluorescent above it...depending on how the Sensibility has been set.

Resuming...Thanks for bringing this circuit in this Forum!!...It Backs Up my disclosure here in a great measure!!

Light to you too!!

Ufopolitics

I see now where the problem is on this circuit...It triggered when He said "The Highest Spike I've got..."
Radiant is a very uniform wave signal, watch my video on resistor test, it is clearly there in the Scope. There shouldn't be Spikes at all...either the diodes are not good for the purpose or the Cap is doing it, or due to the resonance created with coil.
You can NOT charge an Electrolytic Cap with Radiant ever...it will blow it.
However, He is working the charge out by adding very slow pulses...it may work but will take for ever. besides the circuit is enclosed in a loop...no load added...

The point here is to find the highest frequency-resonance that you could drive Radiant at High Levels. You have to go gradually (I had said it a few times now), slowly going Up till you reach the highest peaks.
I have gotten Radiant at pretty high levels in the K Hertz values.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hi Everyone,

I was looking around at lunch and found what I believe to be a very handy link for Inductor Self Resonance.

Self-resonant frequency of Inductors

I think this will help alot of people that are struggling with their coils.

This link gives a ton of good information.

May The Light be with you.

Hi Everyone,

I have replicated the circuit and Coil setup with the diodes and my Replication of UFOPolitics Setup is Under Unity - by a long way.

I am getting less than 40% output on my setup and this is at resonance. I get 89% if I use a closed Core.

I need more information.

May the light be with you

P.S. I think Inductive Collapse is not the way forward - Unless I am missing a very important piece of information. Also your Diodes are drawn the wrong way around on the secondary coil as per the description on the Drawing you released, UFOPolitics - Just thought I'd point this out for others following this thread.

..

I have given up on the regulators here none of them have worked for me so I found one on youtube - LM317 Adjustable Voltage Regulator Tutorial.
It is adjustable so you can set the voltage to whatever you want, 12v in this case. ewizard has also suggested using an adjustable one.
It worked well. I set regulator to 12v and connected it to the rest of the circuit and it also worked well. I quickly tested it with 3*12v bulbs, then with a coil. I could feel the vibrations in the coil, thats all I have done for now.

netica

Hello The Light,

Absolutely there is something not right in your circuit-set up.

I could BLOW on video, I mean, "Literally and really" BLOW in shattered glass pieces a 120 Volts/40 Watt CFL with just my primary reverse Radiant Energy through the diodes using on Input FOUR (4.0 VOLTS). And you tell me my circuit is " Under Unity-by a long way"??!!

Yes, definitively you need more info...may read a bit more the whole thread, something wrong there.

: !!??

That what this thread is all about , Inductive collapse to invoke Radiant in, at those "Collapses" or TIMES OFF.
So, if you think "Is not the way forward" then -by all be means- be my guest, open another thread and propose your own "Way to The Light"...

Answer: NO, they are NOT wrong, secondary is shown to be wound in, exactly, the same way as primary, as a matter of fact, in CAD is just a CLONE, a Copy of the primary coil drawing. Radiant flows in complete opposition to our Hot electricity and period. If the Primary is set up to flow in ONE Way and Secondary is Identical, the Flow is ALSO exactly the same. Therefore Diodes Go exactly the same as primary.

Then You add...

I mean, You've got it obviously wrong, the whole thing, just by stating diodes are set wrong , this opinions happened way back at the beginning of this thread...by people who did not understand this simple set-up...you are still on the Hot side, viewing it from there...and of course diodes look wrong from that point. However, you have the audacity to still "warn others" here on my thread??!!

I have spend thousand of hours on this tests, I would not accept someone to "just step in" and "try" to judge, criticize and 'try to repair' my own set-up... when it is very obvious you've got it all wrong...period.

So, either you try to "comply" and repair what is wrong with your set-up...or ship out and like I said before...do your own thread my friend.

I gave you a nice answer to your first posts.
You brought over a link stating same circuit "few years ago" so "nothing new here"...right?, well I thank you again for doing it, it proves my diodes set up is perfect. However, I am way ahead of that circuit brother.

May the light be with you (if you are able to see it)

Ufopolitics

By the way...You sound very similar to EM Junkie...very...to the point I could say is the same person.
maybe am wrong. hope so

Would be good think to find a way to charge electrolytic capacitors from radiant.

Hey Boguslaw,

You portrait a picture from Nikola Tesla in your profile...makes me figure you know a lot about Him...then you should know He conceived and patented specifically designed capacitors, oil based, for Radiant Energy and High Frequency electricity...some even 'adjustable'...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

DEFINING RADIANT ENERGY FIELD (Part 1) - YouTube


A demonstration of facts about Radiant Energy Electromagnetic field existence, range of action and behavior through a simple tool I have built.

1-One is Motor action: The "Tool" rotor will rotate faster than a motor, (and no bearings, just a rudimentary tool)...based on an exchange of Two Electromagnetic Fields, One from our pulses, generated at our 'On-Times', and an Opposed Radiant Energy Electromagnetic Field, generated Naturally as our pulses drop, collapse to zero point, that's where Radiance enters our system. This Motor runs 50% on our expense...50% of Radiant Energy ...

2-Also proven here, that the Blue LED (Light Emitting Diode) lights up, NOT due to rotating motor action , (by locking motor action and still lights up) meaning as the Old, Ancient Laws & concepts from Classic Physics Dark Ages...That the Coil is Induced by rotating, moving , therefore, cutting the Electromagnetic field lines in opposite directions (Faraday/Lenz 1800's)...

We have come up a long way Baby from those times now!!...Now the LED is lighting up by pure Radiant Energy Light. LED are Diodes, they only work one way, this diode is set up to be lit by The Opposite Field only, not the one we are generating.
I also show the range where Radiant is within the Coil...Center of Gravity point of Coil is the Most point where we receive the peak of Radiant Energy power.


Ufopolitics

Thanks Bro' for your kindness.
WingsTalysis

__________________
I AM THE ONE

Thanks so much Rubberband. Actually I feel like a bit of a nana, as UFO did state in an earlier thread the type of batteries to use, and to make matters worse I have those batteries which I use on my Electric Jets. Blows all my fuses that three such batteries can power my Mobility Scooter. Exciting stuff. Thanks UFO, and you kind thoughtful guys for not telling me off!

Love and Honour,
Wingstalysis

__________________
I AM THE ONE

Great vid Ufo
Hope I finish replication soon.

Hey Wingtalysis,

If those batteries were 3C (Fastest Chargers available)...and you have the New style low consumption Smart Chargers (They are very light and small)...for the whole pack, with the 'Balancer' included, you could add those in the scooter...and charge them up while accelerating...How is that?
You connect the charger to stabilizer and stabilizer to batteries specific plug to do that(Charger-stabilizer in closed up loop mode)...not the "Discharge" plug...then make a special Coil Secondary just to feed the "Charging System"...
There is a charger...(I got two of them) Thunderpower TP1010C, can charge up to 10 LiPo's at 10 A, it is a 12V Input Charger, (It requires 12V 25 Amps) but requires the Balancer to charge them on the other side plug...
Still you will have xtra room to carry an "Extra Pack" just in case...

And then...Let's Rock and Roll!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hi UFOPolitics,

I was merely pointing out, you wrote on your diagram: "D3,D4 are set to kill Induced Hot Electricty on Secondary." The diodes on the secondary Induce Hot Electricity, this is the way it flows by means of induction from the Primary to the Secondary. I am sorry if I upset you, I was only showing my findings, with a little frustration added in there.

I do obviously have something wrong. I will keep trying and see what I get.

May The Light be with you.

Hey The Light,

Look, I came here to make a Free Public Disclosure about my findings, plus my R&D on this subject and that is, my first "priority" here... my expertise on this fields is on my first introduction page...
I am also here to help others replicate my set up, as much as I could...
But I did not come here to teach from scratch Electronics-Electricity...nor to argue with people that just landing here and start criticizing my set up...telling me Diodes are wrong connected and else, or trying to teach me...how to do it..That's not why I came here. And it is very rude and ranting to do so, without first, reading and going over my posts-videos.

I hope you know by now that Hot (Normal, Typical) DC and AC does not Induce in great measure, meaning robust, just by winding one coil on top of another one, without a huge bulky and heavy steel laminated E frame... Otherwise there wouldn't be such huge and heavy transformers in the market by now...
My set up does induces Hot, but in the Milli Volts range that would not even lit up an LED...(And that is , precisely the way I want it to be) So it is completely disregarded, and not concern with it at all... In my latest video I show that...when I turned the small coil South Up, the LED should lite up by means of Induced Hot...but it don't, why?...it is a plastic-air core. I just do not mention not to confuse people...I measure Hot at all times while comparing to cold...
Radiant Energy does NOT need a Bulky frame to Induce into another coil...its medium is the Air...Her Flux Radiation does not work the same as Hot...at all.
The set up with the Motor could be done with an Air core...simple as that.
I am making the "Happy Motor Video"...I will show all diodes set up there, plus I will Infrared read temperature on motor...with just Hot...and another identical...(no time to wait till it cools down on video) with cold...The difference is outrageous in temp, in speed and in consumption... By far.

I have several controllers-oscillators from factory...Curtis 48-36V to Hobbico (small ones) built for electric vehicles...and for R/C Models ...none of them work for this purposes. They have built in diodes for every MOSFET, plus "Safety Flywheelers" to kill Radiant or C EMF, plus they are designed to 'resist' the High Impact of motors start up...so they start at High Frequencies of Time On and very Low of T-Off...not good either.
That's the reason I had to build them for this purposes from scratch.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Greetings, UFO,
Koolio, most appreciated your kindness. Here is a web address HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : LiPo, LiFe, NiMH Battery>Turnigy Lipoly I located here in the UK that has chargers and Li Po. Would you have a quick gander and let me know at your convenience what you would choose from their Thunderpower Li Po and charger range for my project. My present LiPo are only 1c 2200ma. Also explain what you mean by stabiliser. I understand what you are suggesting to a reasonable degree. When you get the time would you make a quick drawing so I do not make any costly errors in the wiring up etc. Only if you have a spare few moments. Thanks again Bro' for your sharing.Nuclear video on proving Radiant Energy. Can I Email you from this Forum or otherway, as I have something important to ask you, not valid to this thread, which I would appreciate your input on. You have a no worry day.

Love and Honour.
Wingstalysis

__________________
I AM THE ONE

Hey Wingtalysis,

A stabilizer is an additional equipment (some chargers have it built in, however I have not heard of one made for packs of LiPo's...it charges the batteries through the 4 terminal plug, where one (black) is general ground for all) and the other three are for positive of first cell, then second cell plus first and the third red cable is for positive of all three. This is the way to charge the LiPo's, where, first, the stabilizer makes all cells of equal to very close values by adding a small charge to the ones who needs most(it takes a reading first of each cell)..Then proceed to the normal charge. This is a better approach when charging heavy sets of LiPo Packs...like 36 Volts or more.
But, at same token, leave you the "discharge plug" free to be connected to the loads (Oscillator-Coil_Motor) while you are charging them from the other side.
So, first have to make sure the Charger is completely compatible with stabilizer, so better be same brand...as recommended by manufacturer.
The Thunder Power 1010C has an external (optional) stabilizer that connects to it through an interface cable...so they are in complete mutual exchange of data.
You could write to me here I always answer my mails.
But my regular email is: ufopolitics@gmail.com
Thanks

Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

I have tried the completed circuit out.

I initially got my air coil to magnetize really well and was able to vary the strength with the pot on the circuit, You could hear the frequency rise.

I attached the neon light and got some pulsed light from about 1 pulse per sec. to about 2 pulses per sec. I turned up the pot the neon went out then turned on like it was connected up normally to 240v socket but dim then slowly brighter but not as bright as a normally lit neon. I repeated this a couple of times raising and lowering the pot. Then turned it off.

Second try I turned It up to where the neon lit dimly, left it there about 10-15 sec. and the thing started playing up. Then turned it off.

I seemed to be getting power to the coil in a sporadic way as there seemed to be a problem with the drive circuit.
I now find that I get frequency to the coil but very little current, you can hear and feel an extremely light magnetic field and frequency but thats it.

I changed the 555 but that didn't help still the same. I don't know if maybe the mosfets are damaged in some way or it is a component in the drive circuit. I really didn't get a chance to do any thing with it unfortunately.
However even with the extremely low power in the coil I can still get the neon to light for awhile then it shuts off.
I didn't have the time to measure the frequency before things stuffed up but they seem a bit messed up at the moment. I just don't know whats wrong with this drive circuit.
I have just checked how much power the frequency circuit is drawing from the LM317 regulator, it starts at about 60ma and slowly increases and I find that what little power is going to the coil drops off when the frequency circuit draw reaches around 98ma and higher. I don't understand what is happening and why the draw isn't constant.

So now I'm stuck and not sure what is wrong or what to do.
Any advise would be appreciated as it would be pointless building the thing all over again as the same will happen.
The coil I am using is 6 ohms, the wire is 0.9mm diameter, air coil. And the coil is not the problem it works well when energized separately.

netica

Hello Netica,

Based on your description, you are not getting enough pulses and power to Coil.
1-Seems like 555 circuit is not working very stable at raising up frequency. Now this is an oscillator (low voltage side) problem.
2-It seems that MOSFET's are not driving a full up scale up (amperage plus volts)

I may conclude as if your voltage regulating system is not Sourcing enough power "On Demand" from circuit, as you turn the pot on.

Don't get frustrated, you have to do some good measurements there...

1-With system on and while you turn Pot up , Check leg#3 of 555 output with a voltmeter with ground reference, then check at the other end (after the 100 ohms and the 330 ohms to Mosfet's Gate), see how much voltage is getting there ,and if there is a difference between them.
2-With system off, Check Mosfet's resistance value on Internal diode,one by one, by hooking up a continuity-diode check meter and put positive tester probe on Source leg, Negative probe at Drain. It should read some value between 400-500.
3-Check the voltage regulator apart from 555 input, isolated, but apply a 12V load, an automotive halogen bulb, for example...and see if it holds on the power...while you reach the high output.
4-With power On and turning Pot Up, measure Output between Drain and Positive (Input at Coil), see how much voltage are you getting there...

On my circuit the LM317 Output at the point where I marked with red arrow it delivers around 13. something volts...
and do not worry, 555 can take up to 18V.


Let me know...however the test wuith the neon sounded very interesting.

Good luck in the testing

Ufopolitics

Could not help but notice the similarity in your "Defining Radiant Energy" video
with the Joseph Newman motor. Yours is using radiant energy to produce
mechanical force, whereas, Newman's uses mechanical force to obtain
radiant energy ( or at least I think that is how Newman's works). Both
configurations are similar. If your radiant motor was increased in size, it
would appear that you would get much higher RPM's than a Newman motor
of similar size. I may be all wrong, but what are your views on this. Thanks
for the demonstration.

George

ufo, please find private messages top right of this page. thanks!

Hello George,

Nice to see you around again!

Yes, very good observation there, and the comparison with Newman Motor is just right. Structure wise it is the same config.
Newman Motor uses a mechanical approach , a commutator and contact brush...and Inner permanent magnets...

The little motor I demonstrated runs 50% on our pulses and 50% on Radiant Energy...so it should be pretty efficient on our side.
Our pulses regulate the speed...since Radiant Energy power depends on our frequency to run faster or slower.
And exactly as you are saying, if we expand the radius of inner coil, plus get a heavier set magnet mounted on bearings...we should get a pretty good response in speed. At the same token if we also add a coil to it...we will convert it in a "Motor-Generator" Assembly...and could run the power outside by continuous slip ring contacts...just like an "Alternating Current Motor" plus a Generator built in...
Actually we do not need slip rings, just by isolating (by splitting) the Core in two copper pieces direct it to each axle-shaft also isolated...we could get the power from the two shaft sides...

Why don't You make it George?...

In my next video (Part Two) I made a similar approach to Walter Russell's Cone Coils...and the results are impressive...anti-gravity inside the core, George, on magnets...plus a much bigger range of Radiant Field that allows me to almost drive the motor and LED outside the Coil...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

Thanks for your help and direction,
After doing what you have said I think you worked out correctly that the regulated power supply isn't good enough for the circuit.

1- Voltage getting to the mosfet started at around 6v but very quickly dropped to between 0 and 2.6 volts and .03 to.05 lower at leg#3.
2-The values for the Mosfet's internal diode resistance were all between 445 and 449.
3-I put a higher load globe on the regulator and found it didn't power it at all, the voltage dropped right off straight away and the amps started at around 500ma and dropped off.
4-Voltage at the coil starts at 33v but quickly drops to 0v in a few seconds.

I have also increased the voltage output of the regulator to 13.8v but this has very little benefit.
The LM317 gets very hot, I think the difference in voltage 38 to 12 is quite allot for it to handle.
So it seems like I am back to the original problem of finding a good regulated power supply to work with this circuit.

Thanks again for your help Ufo.

netica

Hello Netica,

Yes because of your description I figured the Power Supply was not responding "on demand" when Higher requirements are set by the whole system.

I really can not see why you are so stuck with the voltage regulator system!!, I have even thought you may have the LM 317 connected in reverse related to Input-Adjustment legs (The two on sides)...We all know that center is Output, however the basic confusion is at the A and I legs...This transistors are "resettable" they hardly go bad unless fried...by a very high voltage exceeding its max values (36V)
It shouldn't heat up that much (I mean LM317 heat up...it is normal...) unless doing long times at high peaks (full blast)...Do you have it on a Heat Sink?
It also seems like you have not enough Capacitance response in your power supply...meaning, your Electrolytic Caps ain't working right somehow, either are not good, or are connected the wrong way.
The little caps (2.2 and 10 uF) as the 1000 uF are very important to this regulator, makes it more 'robust'...I mean there are only like 6 or seven components total here...
My only mistake in the latest Update was the resistor parallel to diode to be 220 ohms instead of 2.2 K...just the one to ground is 2.2 K...but the rest is identical to mine, and it is working perfect.
So, my only conclusion here is that you, are connecting the LM317 the wrong way...check it out again...slowly...easy...
also check the Caps at the regulator...connections and conditions...
The other thing is...What batteries are you using?..LiPo's?...How many Amps?
The Batteries am using are Fully charged 37 Volts, totaling 6.6 Amps (2200 mA each pack out of three that have around 12V ea)

Good luck...and please do it carefully, I am waiting very enthusiastic to see those Neons bright up your skies there...

Cheers

Ufopolitics.

Thanks UFO for confirming my observations. I always eventually wanted to
try replicating a Newman motor. Now that I have seen your design concept
and kind of understand the operating principles, from what I can tell this
would be a superior device. From what I have learned, and demonstrated
for myself, it is not that difficult to obtain radiant energy. The problem is
being able to utilize it or convert it to an efficient usable form. With your
approach the conversion seems much simpler.

George

Thanks George!

There are ways to make it happen in a more robust way...and has to do with the oscillation signals...So far my Dual Channels are working great, however am not happy...The way it should be done is slightly while going up, start reducing our Times On and widening our T-Off's ...This is completely inversely to How every controller-oscillator works...but I am sure it will render absolutely wonderful results.

Definitively you are right, this type of motor could be superior to a BLDC and of course to a brushed one...the thing is...oscillations have to start again from zero if it collapses, I do not see it that "robust" at starting point/response...that's why I am mentioning the oscillation issues...
However, I have not been trying to make-design a motor here...but just to demonstrate there is absolutely No "Single" Collapsing field Story teller any more...
There are "Collapsing Fields" on and off...where the cause for changing polarity an Inductor is due to the Radiant Opposite Field coming up...

Regards

Ufopolitics