Hello Cacharreo,

I am glad that -at least- you saw the purple light!!

However, I will tell you some issues in your circuit...

1- Your 12 Volt power source is too low voltage to also drive the Drain-Source outputs.
2-Your Coil is too short of Turns, you need to go at least 200 Turns, but with higher voltage...and better MOSFET's
3-Your MOSFET'S are too slow (RdsOn 3.0 to 4.0 Ohms) it needs to be in the Milli ohms range, like 0.02Ohms !!...They have to be very fast switchers. Also, their Amperage at Pulsing rates are too low...(IDm=7.0 Amps), they should be at least 15 Amps.
I uploaded the Data Sheet of your MOSFET'S below, just without the last three letters "DFI"...

To my opinion you could see the purple light because that occurs at low frequency and low voltages of Hot pulsed voltages...but in order to go full blast and light up heavier loads you need to make your circuit more robust...

At least a power source of 24V / 4.5 Amps, and reducing voltage with a Voltage regulator (like LM317) to supply 555 timer source to 13-14 Volts...but using the Full 24 V to drive MOSFET'S Source-Drain lines output.
When you do that, then you have to add 220 or 330 Ohms resistors between MOSFET's Gate and 100 Ohms R1, that goes to leg 3 of 555. Also the Gate Biasing Resistor (R3) would have to be increased to -at least- 40-50K...(try simulator for best results...I used a 47K at 36V 6.6 Amps.

Now for the Oscillating circuit you did a great job!!...and that is why you are getting Radiant at Neons...
Now, when you step to higher voltage circuits, should not go too high on neons or will blow them into just an orange light, similar to typical, but brighter...but will never see on them again the purple-white plasma ball.

Purple light is beautiful isn't it?

Regards

Ufopolitics

Attached Files

IRF822_N_CHANNEL.pdf (330.0 KB, 25 views)

Hello Ufopolitics, thanks for your fast response.

Cacharreo not have a good translation, maybe junkyard, maybe homemade gadget, something like.

I appreciate your advices and I have in mind them. But I take the opportunity to investigate the material I have around.

I armed 2 rails with 3 mosfets following your especifications (330 and 47k),
mosfets are not good yet, only test, i know it.
I also want to try a new coil and different turns, to compare my previous results.

On the power I want to use 3 batteries of 12v and power the oscillator with the battery 1, ¿ok?

Yes, the purple light is beautiful.

Attached Thumbnails

   

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

torpex,

if you are running MOSFETs paralell, you need good driving current. Connect output from generator to TC4422 chip - http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/79492.pdf

Connect one side of 33ohm resistor to MOSFET gate and second side to driver TC4422 pins 6,7. Do it for all of them. One TCxxx driving paralell MOSFETs. This solution gives you very steep pulse and enough energy for driving

See datasheet of TC4422 and DO NOT exceed power supply and let me know how is going.

regards,

Cinan

Hello Ufo,

Welcome to the forum and thanks for sharing your insights.

I have seen these anomolies and was wondering if you are documenting them in the three stages?

IMO, from my data I collected the Radiant appears as we all know when the switch closes. However, this can be analized frame by frame and obtain a clearer understanding of this anomoly.

1.) As the switch closes the Radiant is drawn in as segmented sections/pulses as seen in one of the pics I have.

2.) There is a green flash that acts like a gaseous substance, or smoke like in appearance that has a scalar component. Also, there is a plasma discharge that is not linear and I have placed the capacitor in different positions to see if the effect was perpendicular to the magnetic field, it was random and thus could not be directed like a conventional EM wave.

3.) As the Radiant gas dissapates the current flows and generates sparks that we expect to see at the close of the switch in EM theory, not after like when Radiant is present.


The clip on YT you uploaded "Skin Effect Radiant Energy" you can see that with the naked eye the green flash when you short the Gator clip together (close switch) and when I paused the YT clip at this closure point the green anomoly is there for all to see.

I'm only up to page 4 of this post as only starting reading this today and this has demanded my attention and so I hope you don't mind my late entry in this discussion.

P.S - I will attach the pics I captured from your YT clips and I have some of these effects in the "Help with my first Bedini SSG" post.

Regards
Zero

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Hello ZPE,

Interesting comment and !!

Yes, a few days after that comment I posted...I started to edit video at slow motion stages with Adobe Premiere, I made Three clips starting from Low to Lowest at end...And definitively there is an Ultraviolet Spectrum followed by the Green Strobe...right after I turn the Oscillator Potentiometer to lowest position...

They are completely independent frames (Ultraviolet and Green Lights) and they only come up in a couple of frames, meaning, our normal sight will not be able to see them.

After I found this, I started debunking other videos..(sounds weird, I am "debunking my own videos...

This two effects, green strobes and Ultraviolet Cloud occurs only when I start "dialing" Up frequency to excite Radiant Field...or when I start decreasing to lower Freq. to shut off oscillator...
At start it is amazing to observe how they pump in-out till light gets fully lit...

Below is the video I edited, I have it as 'Unlisted' on my Channel...so you could not see it unless you have the link to it...

RADIANT_ ENERGY_ULTRAVIOLET_SPECTRUM_GREEN_STROBE - YouTube

Great to have You around ZPE!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hi folks, Hi ufo, Hi zeropoint, if you notice in this video i just made, you will see that same green light effect when i turn off the cfl, just thought you might like to know, since your mentioning it here.
Joule Ringer!
Super Joule Ringer 2.0 With Peanut Butter Base Mod - YouTube
peace love light
tyson

Hello SkyWatcher and ZPE ,

Here is a video I just uploaded (also unlisted on YT) that shows same effects, but at start.

Ultraviolet-Green Effect at Start of Oscillations - YouTube

Now, there are also "Capturing Errors" here, that I have also noticed in other videos..like the Purple Neon, and that is Shutter Speed versus Real Timing ...it can not keep up with pulses from Light emitted pulses. So we get to see the CFL lighting half way up, however, can see the Off upper part of bulb...that is because our digital capturing system utilizes Interleave layer progression or overlapping layers/frames...so, we are watching the off part from previous layer...while shutter is sweeping/masking new lighted layer in ...

However we can also see clearly the parts/frames where the bottom part of CFL and the wood is lighted up with purplish light-shadows, as we also see reflections and refractions of purple and green light on the walls of oscilloscope and other areas...so this lights are real, no capturing errors there.


Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello UFO,

I'm glad you found my comments of the stages of the Radiant events interesting and I believe you confirmed 2 of the 3 stages in your YT clips.

I seen the anomoly clearer further along in your clip, except your hands are covering most of the light in the background. The second clip you posted is much clearer to see the green/ultraviolet effects at the swith closure in the CFL.

Regards
Zero

Hey Tyson,

That is good news that the Joule Ringer circuit can generate Radiant effects as the transistor fires the CFL. I have not made that circuit but from what I have read or seen it contains interesting properties.

Thanks for posting your findings in the circuit.

Regards
Zero

Hey Ufopolitics,

First let me congratulate you on capturing these anomolies and placing the effort to look frame by frame at the stages of the Radiant effects appearing in the CFL.

The DSO in the background was clearly ( to me ) showing the inductive spike generated from the collapsing magnetic field and the scalar wave present after the instantanious voltage in the coil. I will have to snap a few pics from the YT clip to see the frequency change at this point, or is this in the 2000Hz range that you uploaded pics of in the first post?
I noticed in the clip that some of the Radiant anomolies were present in the CFL when the DMM was reading 13Hz ( or less ) and not sure if this was due to the lag time in the shutter processing in the overlapping frames that you mentioned.

I do have one thing for you to try if you have not as of yet, move the digital camera back to capture a meter or more around the CFL. During the Green/Ultravoilet effects in the CFL there should be a unidirectional pulse that appears after the Radiant, there is also an effect that sometimes can be seen as Radiant sucks the energy from the outside environment.
I seen this clearly when I shorted a Radiantly charged cap after I turned off the light and then checked it frame by frame on the computer.

Have you pinpointed the frequency yet that this inductive spike obtains the Radiant effects?

Finally, I'm sure you have seen Eric Dollard's experiments in "Tesla's Longitudinal Electricity" when he obtains these effects on the outside of the light in series with the Tesla Coil ( you can see the green flash in the globe ) and is speaking about the Radiant form compared to the conventional EM energy.
Now to the point He places a capacitor's positive leg over the light and is able to extract power from the Radiant gas the appears on the outside of the globe. The negative leg is connected to a sink to provide the earth ground needed for his experiment.
You CLEARLY have this same effects in your CFL and could replicate Tesla's patent from the Dollard experiments shown.

Thanks for showing an interest in the anomolies present in your findings as everyone I talked to about these FACTS has not seen the significance of what is happening. I'm happy that many people are viewing your post and will have a chance to see this effect.

Maybe this can be used as a tool to measure the amount of Radiant energy extracted by the amount of gas present on film and then we can refine the principle to yield greater amounts?

A simple experiment that all one needs is a capacitor, camera and CFL to capture the Radiant as a plasma corona discharge on the outside of the bulb. Then scale up as needed.

I will have to spent the night reading this post so I up to speed on all the topic covered so I do not waste your time asking questions from earlier pages. I could not help myself when I seen in your clip that you achieved the same radiant effects that I have in capacitors.

Regards
Zero

Hey N8,

Has been a few months since we on the same post, how is the 3 battery generating system working out? I commented on your YT clip mate.

Paramagnetic material will not retain any residual magnetic flux induced by the ferromagnetic materials. Also, the black sand that Muller utilized in his motor had the the same paramagnetic properties to obtain the faster RPM due to no drag from the magnetic field in the shorted generator coil.

I can grab the link from BM2 if you like for the Paramagnetic material if the supplier has any still?

Regards
Zero

N8,

My name is Bob French and I introduced the paramagnetic material to the Monopole2 group last year. A friend of mine had me test it for paramagnetism and it turned out to be the most paramagnetic material that he had ever found. It has worked for me as a core just great. Min2oly has been using it successfully also, as have others. I call it ParaCore and my friend, Jerome Chambless sells it. E-mail him at "jeromechambless@ymail.com" to purchase some. I don't think he has much left and has had trouble making contact with his supper due to their winter work schedule back when he was trying.

Paramagnetic means that it is not magnetic, but becomes magnetic and polarized when in the presence of a magnetic field. So it is perfect for a core material in many instants. On a rotored machine there is next to no kogging (drag) at low speeds (at any speed for that matter) and retains no magnetism during switching operations. Min2oly shared that his rotor speeds about doubled with it. I ran my 6PM (100% stock parts) at over 10,000 rpm on 12v using this as the core. And the spike of the "h" wave was straight up and straight down.

I think that it might be of great use with this technology. As I understand it, the reason an air coil works is because the air has some O2 which is paramagnetic. Oxygen in the air is not dense, so I think something like the Paracore, that is very dense (sort of like rock dust), might be much better than an air core. (?) We'll have to see.

This is my first post. I just finished reading the whole thread (over three days) and I'm totally impressed and anxious to start building. Many parts are ordered. If anyone would care to suggest exactly what to build (particular timer setup, particular voltage regulator setup, and particular "mine" circuit setup) I would appreciate the input. I already have numerous coils that may work. I will have to determine the N-S of them. They are all wound the same direction (if looking down from the top, the wire wraps around in a CCW manner; is looking from the side, it starts on the left and continues across the front to the right and then around the back). Can someone tell me if the inside wire (beginning) is + or -? N or S?

Lastly, I'd like to say how happy I am that UFO has graced us with this knowledge and has been so kind as to disclose all details and encourage others to do the same. UFO, thank you! thank you! thank you!!! I am looking forward to your next video and the info forthcoming.

Thanks all,

Bob

Hi, Cinan, I am back home again after a long trip. And feel very happy to hear you have finished the firmware and software of the PICgen already! I am interested to have them for my replication of your circuitry and for driving the UFOpolitics coil.
I have to buy photo sensitive PCB to copy the circuit board yet, not done due to the long trip away from home. Sorry.
aaron5120

Hey Ufopolitics,

I'm up to speed with all the posts now and ready to start replicating your build.

I have most of the parts on hand but will have to order the MOSFETS and the NTExxx fast switching diodes, but will use the 1000v @ 200mA 1N914/1N4148 series that I have already if the FET's arrive first.

PVC tube I have for other projects is 57mm OD and will match your 200T of #18 copper wire or the 1.4 Ohm coil perameters, height will be 50.8mm. Sound ok?

I enjoyed the second YT clip with the anti-gravity effects in the bloch wall of the coil where the Radiant is greatest. I now see there is more to the relationship in the polarity of the magnetic field ( Radiant or EM ) in proportion to the magnetic particles in a constant state of flux.
The Faraday motor is a simple example that most of us have seen or made. However, your experiment achieved the same result off the coupling with the Radiant EM field and the speed of the rotation is determined by the position in the coil in relation to the bloch wall.

Regards
Zero

Hello ZPE!

HOLD ON!!

This Diodes will blow as soon as you turn that dial!...they are low power signal diodes...they are good if, set after the UF505/NTE576 in series...Voltage does not matter, high repetitive current will increase/replace Higher Amperage...they are great as filtering once the ultra fast rectifiers are on line.
If you have the 1N4003-4004 up to 4007 they will work fine...not as fast as 576...but safe.

Yes, the speed of motor depends also on pulsations...I am making a more robust model where the rotor is made of aluminum cylinder and two magnets...stator is the main coil...split in two parts, there is a way to "trick" Radiant Field to flow/manifest right at center between two coils...However this is not the best of best of examples..

I am very glad you have almost everything ready to go!!
Anxious to hear how you've achieve it.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello and Bob French!!,
Thanks !, it is my pleasure and my Duty to disclose all this and the upcoming developments of this set up.
I am glad you are about to start replicating my set-up!!

Paramagnetic materials are a very vast field of research for this purposes, and that material you are writing here "Para-Core" (love the name!), sounds great!
One basic issue we must have in consideration when choosing this materials, is their ability to SWITCH/SHIFT Polarities at very High Frequencies...If they can stand that test...then they are great prospects.

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo!

Very interesting thigs you have here, this thread got me to actually start building something. I've been reading different projects on this forum, but yours is the one that got me started!

I'm waiting for diodes and mosfets to arrive, i ordered STTH12R06DIRG ultrafast 600V 12A diodes and FCP11N60 MOSFET. Still working on the coil and i need to get my batteries. I don't have any hertz meters yet, but i'll get them sooner or later.

Hi all,

@cinan
Thank you for your input on the driver TC4422. Although for the moment I go to follow the steps of Ufopolitics's circuit, I am very slow and I go step by step. Great job on our pc-controlled oscillator.

The 555 pwm oscillator has the disadvantage to vary frequency lightly while adjust pulse width.

Yes Ufo, IRF822DFI has lower espec. than IRF822. I have updated one rail to mosfet SSP16N50C3, I believe that he is a good candidate, right?

@Bob French
Hello and welcome Bob French!.
What's important is the sense of the coil, should be left hand coil.
If he gets connected wire 1 to + and wire 2 to Drain then side 1 will be the north
If he gets connected wire 2 to + and wire 1 to Drain then side 2 will be the north

Left-hand rule for coils:

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hello Torpex!

Hey thanks for helping Bob French on this, there are a lot of misleading and wrong info out there when it comes to magnetic orientation in a Coil...

I've got blisters on my hands blisters for so many motors I have winded...I use my right hand rule...I had measured themagnetic orientation and the way your image is is perfect, except you are using your left hand...I use my right.




Thanks

Ufopolitics

UFO and Tropex,

Thank you for your help, but I am still not completely clear. UFO says right hand rule and Torpex says left hand rule. Does it matter?

All my existing coils are like the pictures that Torpex posted. The arrows in the coils are what? Current flow (negative to positive flow)? What is wire 1 and wire 2? Where do I find these?

I am getting my head wrapped around putting the LM393 pulse generator circuit and the new LM317 voltage regulator circuit as replacements for the 555 and old LM317 circuit shown on UFO's circuit (updated with the missing wire) so I can build one. All the parts are ordered and I'm drawing it all out. I'm planning on a 4 MOSFET circuit. Is that a good start?

Also one of my coils is made up of 4 wires, each is 19 AWG, 500 ft. long, and the they are twisted together (Litzed) and then wound on the spool as shown in Torpex's pictures if started at the bottom of the hand and end near thumb. Would this coil be suitable?

Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

Hello Bob,

Ok, You could use either hands...hahaha

Meaning it is relative terms we all use to make it a "General Rule", But basically it consist on seen the arrangement from positive-negative direction of wires versus North-South ends.
At the end here I will post a picture of Coil connected to battery in symbols, where N-S are also written...no more hands...

However, for the first time tests, magnetic polarity does not really matter, but how to connect diodes versus positive and negative from pulsing hot side.

Related to the oscillator...The ones I have are based on 555 timers...I have not made the LM393 yet...and as far as I know, no one has come here to say how great the LM393 works as of now.
Now 4 MOSFET's should be fine, must be low RdsOn, and spec's much more ABOVE your voltage/amps source. I am supposing you are using N-Channels only for now...Not dual anti-phase, I hope.
I would like for people testing this for the first time to start from the simplest ways...
The Coil you are mentioning should be a monster, meaning great prospect!!, it is a Quad-Filar Coil... However, measure the Resistance...because if too high you will need really heavy oscillation power to pulse it at fast rates. As great Ultrafast rectifiers to control/regulate the flow accordingly. I also would like to know how many turns it has and core OD size and Height ?...In order to properly advise you Bob...


In order for this tests to be successful everything should be balanced properly...like in must electronic-electrical-electromagnetic systems...meaning, if Coil is too heavy, and oscillator and source too weak...you will get very low and poor Radiant results...
If Coil is too weak by being too high on resistance...it won't do it...
If it is too low on R because too little turns...and too heavy gauge wire...it will blow MOSFET's and possible even oscillating circuit also...

This test should be done with meters measuring almost every parameter as possible...from Batteries level to outputs...Inputs, V,A,Hertz, etc...


Regards


Ufopolitics

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Hey Ufopolitics,

I will have to draw your circuit out in my notes on paper so can add the correct diodes to the diagram. I have on order the NTE576 (5 pack) and a 10 pack the NTE587, there are ultra fast switching, 200V @ 4A as back ups. I have the 1N4007 series but was going to use all ultra fast switching and the NTE587 are half the price of the NTE576.

On my description of the anti-gravity effect I did forget to mention the speed of the pulsations is also a factor in determining the revolutions
I'm looking forward to seeing that design in operation, is the aluminum is affected by eddy currents, magnetic drag or are the Radiant results inverse to conventional theory. These are springing to mind

Will keep you updated with my progress, well is 3 of us working on this on BM3, Mr Bob French is one of them

P.S - I'm found close to your MOSFETS on RS, NTE 2395. N-Channel; 0.028 Ohm (Max.); 60 V (Min.); 50A Drain; 150W; -55 to +175W.
But they do not have the NTE2397 from your diagram. I was getting worried that I needed the $50-$80 FET's and could easily see this circuit adding up.
However, the NTE2395 are only $10.50 each in a 2 pack

NTE2394 were the ones I should of grabbed. Will rectify that soon with my next parts order.

IRF740 MOSFETs x2 I have found and FR604 (600V@4A - 155ns) diodes when I checked through my parts.

Regards
Zero

Hi all

@Bob French
The sense of the coil certainly is a bit confused. We say the same thing but with different hands, hehe
In Left hand rule current flow positive to negative (conventional electric).
In Right hand rule current flow negative to positive (physics electrons flow).
In my previous drawing current flow + to -, it is Ufo especification. In the coil we have 2 wires, he that connects to the positive this will be the north.
But remember, i am a newbie in this thread, Ufo is the big boss.
I would like to see one of that great coil's photos.

@Ufopolitics
Our last coil's drawing is symetric 2D, according to look at him produce an optic effect in 3D, and for me vary the sense, perhaps?

My updates:
rail with 3 mosfets SSP16N50C3
Power source 36v (3 batteries of car)
LM338K regulator fixed to 13.95v

Results:
That's rocks, with one eco lightbulb of 9W and another of 15w (230v). Brilliance does not belong to the 100%, it's my guess that it belongs to the 120-130%
current drain is 300mA to 640mA.
Still I am wearing the insufficient coil, only 100 turns.
I have also increased frequency.

Ufo, what is your current drain?

Diodes:
At present i use BYV26-E. I want to try with:
31GF6 (3A, 600V, 30ns)
BYT12 (12A,1000v, 155ns)
DSI60 (60A, 600V, 35ns)

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hallo Aaron,

I've tested sw today at it seems working well. I need to change Xtall on my board, as I have slower one and timing is different. Once you'll be ready, let me know. Manual settings ov Freq and D.C via encoders is not done yet and I will implement it if necessary later on.

BR

Cinan

Hello Torpex,

very godda I have very small coil with special wire, and resonant point is around 15kHz. 25W incandescent light bulb is fully lit, 230VDC on it. Because of higher freq, DC electrolyt. caps can be used without any problems. Duty cycle is of course load dependent, an in my case is around 35%. Will do another tests once I get my semiconductors

But I still don't have any green or purple light flashes on my Panasonic ECO 230VAC bulb....
Maybe you have guys different bulbs or I am doing something wrong. Dialing speed is very slow as advised and start freq. is 80Hz, lamp starts flashing more and more and suddenly dies. When I'll climb up, it gets bright from zero. Maybe really batteries matters...

Regarding coil:

Current flow is confusing ! It flows electrically, so RIGHT hand rule apply.
Tested with DC supply and compass.

@ Ufo,

did you get time to make pictures or vid ? We want to try magnifying of flow, but I cant imagine how. If extra coil is inserted inside of pump coil, HOT induction will takes place anyway.... and we need to magnify only COLD part... how ? I am very well trained to understand irrational things

cheers,

Cinan

Hi cinan

what is your current drain and specificatios of our coil?

It's my guess that green light do not show at a glance, appear in the video.
Purple light appear in neon bulb (power source 12v), only neon connected.I have tried to make photos or to film it but the camera does not get it.

I believe that I am wrong, I thought that Ufo's drawing was real and I checked it against the compass, but I forgot that the geographic north is the magnetic south in reality. Ufo, please, can you clarify it?

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hello Torpex,

And again, this is for all the ones asking about polarity versus magnetic poles...

It is not that important, really, as setting your diodes properly...
Unless you are winding a motor...then polarity is VERY Important...Now, for just a Static Coil...means absolutely nothing...so, just start your Coil the way you please...Clockwise or Counter...whatever...BUT, make sure you decide which end will be positive...apply some small voltage and read magnetic poles...that is all about it...
Whatever Hot polarity would be...Radiant will ALWAYS be the Opposite...
In that picture I was relating exactly to that fact...N/S in RED is HOT...
And N/S in BLUE is Radiant Orientation.

All other data is completely Relative...like
"Wherever Positive terminal is that where South is..."
No!!...I could run the wire to top of Coil and have it right there, next to North...so, it is relative...
What I am trying to Convey here... is NOT to sweat over simple stuff that could be tested and verified in seconds with any compass or permanent magnet...

Now, The Diodes in that picture related to Battery polarity and MOSFET's Drain...is perfectly well...no errors

Related to Green light...You will NEVER see it with your eyes...is too fast...one frame over 60 per second...1/60 Sec...followed by a bright white shine...You must film it and replay it later after slowing your video editor also...The type of pixel resolution and video processor of your Cam must be a good quality one...a cheap camera will never make it...

Related to Purple Light...It is a very "UNSTABLE LIGHT" , it occurs only for a very low frequency rates...below 80Hz Cinan...I am talking about from 8 to 9 Hz...going up very slow...record and annotate Frequency when You see it...but should be between 10 to 30-50 Hz...then is gone...and if you keep going up...you will never see it again in that same Neon...but the orange bright light.
And again...I have made a video just to show the Bad capturing equipment tech we have so far...not advanced enough to capture that light...

RADIANT ENERGIZED NEON - YouTube

It is shown there...BUT NEVER the way it looks in Reality...never!!


Regards to all

Ufopolitics

Hello Cinan,

Ok...

The Green light...I explained in post above...will never see it plain human sight.
The Purple strobe of plasma...will come on on very low frequency (lower than 80Hz)...above also...try starting at 9-15 Hz...slow up.
I have tried a 120V Neon...no resistance on it, like must come already soldered to one leg...if so...take it off. I do not think it will make any difference being 120 or 240 V...

Now, you wrote...

You mean... is that the coil you are using for this project?...that can stand 230 Volts DC ?!
Then , please, (and I think I asked you this before), can you measure Resistance on this Coil?

You've said "special wire" on it...What do you mean by special?

For what I can read and understand...You have a Coil like a Transformer, must be fine wire, and huge resistance...it will never output Radiant based on my set-up.

Cinan, could you please give me spec's of this Coil...awg, turns, resistance, OD and height...?

And last...

Sorry Cinan, no I have not got the time yet to make video...I took some pics but came out too dark.
Please, don't rush...I see you want to "jump" and have not even got the purple light yet...

...Not necessarily... HOT will NOT thrive in an inner secondary Coil...IF...We do not provide the 'adequate' steel frame structure to transfer flux from Primary to inner secondary core...
HOT will get there...but very weak...Milli-volts...while Radiant/Cold will be in K Volts.
Remember Radiant medium is the Ether or Aether..Hot is not good developing Induction at Air Cores/Gaps...

Regards

Ufopolitics

Sorry but I have to say that the plasma like effects that you detect in the neons can be made using a simple reed switched coil....using no external power supply! I have preformed experiments in this manner which caused the gas in the neon to transition from the standard orange, to bright orange, to pink, to bluish green to purple to white, at this point the electrodes begin to go incandescent, if you can maintain the necessary conditions, the electrodes will go from incandescent to burning white and will fuse. Its here where the gas is more or less cooked off, and the glass globe cracks or explodes. All that to say this, the phenomena you are glorifying is text book....

Anyone who has operated a pulse motor has seen the purple in the neons. With Mosfets and IGBT switches its easier to get the purple owing to their low on resistance, with BJT switches, using a pulse motor you just abruptly force the circuit to draw more current, an adjustable trigger on SG circuits makes this easy...

As for the last part about the AEther.....all I can say is maybe its best to stick with and comprehend the KNOWN, and only when we KNOW and have mastered the FUNDAMENTALS, then and only then should we move into the world of the UNKNOWN!

You might not agree with anything I just noted, but please try and be respectful when you respond, we have nothing to loose except our illusions of having the answer. By not inviting other knowledgeable individuals a word or two, you cheat yourself out of eventually receiving some important insights.


Regards

Sir,

Yes, You are completely right...NO, I do not agree with anything you have written here, and as a matter of fact, I do find your final words as an insult to myself...
Let me ask you a very plain and simple question...

Do You Know who I AM?!
Do You Know my expertise in the fields??!!
Then, why, do you dare to come here, to my FORUM, to write all this diminishing words to my Work?!
What is the point?
To gain audience?...For people to believe "You DO know" what You are writing about?
Or is it any other "Negative Feelings" against my work that I will reserve to bring out, but that you know exactly what am referring to?

I will respond to your writings in the same attitude you have done it.

Show the Video(s) ...then I will believe you, otherwise,it will be considered a False Statement-Claim.
After all, it is a Policy from this Site to do that...Show "Proof"...or be considered Fake.


I am Not GLORIFYING, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.
The Purple Plasma Ball I know perfectly WELL, is nothing new, as a matter of Fact Eric Dollard have produce it years ago...and YES, it is attributed to Radiant Energy...And it could manifested in many ways...even in a circuit without power supply...(like you have written here) not only through my set-up, Sir.

I not only have operated Pulsed Motors,...BUT have designed them and fabricate them from scratch...zero, nada.
And not talking of crappy models made out in pieces of Plexiglass or Lexan...BUT THE REAL ONES that can stand the Heat, METAL, ALUMINUM, STEEL...welded framed and ready to run..Sir.

I do not need to install Neons on my MOSFET's...Yes, I heard they have seen that light right before transistor blow...of course, it is a feedback from Radiant into your circuit.
When You are playing with HEAVY DUTY EQUIPMENT, you do not use Neons...they can not save absolutely no MOSFET's, nothing like a well placed and balanced Rectifier.

Forgive me Sir...But I do MASTER THE FUNDAMENTALS, That is exactly the reason why, I DO, CAN AFFORD TO MOVE INTO THE UNKNOWN...and very secure of my steps.

ARE YOU?

This is the only part of your entire post where We both come to an understanding!

That You Know off...Have I ever been disrespectful, Sir?...Or Do you think You are giving me any reasons to be?


Ohhh!!...That would be terrible wouldn't it?!!...
But the thing is..like I wrote before in another post (And I am completely sure you have not read me prior, but my latest post here)...I made my Models first, test them and run them, then I come up with conclusions and make my claims, Sir.
It is a very "Non Scientific Approach" to build a MOTOR in plastic and expect to perform like a real model should be made off...Heavy Metals, or at least Carbon Fibers...or worst, to write in a scrappy piece of paper a whole bunch of symbols and numbers...and then say "it will work just fine like this"...I know many that have done that and their illusions dropped below zero. That was terrible for them!!

Sorry, but your type of approach, I don't like, at all...even if you consider yourself a "knowledgeable individual", I do not need that kind of "Help"...So, thanks for your time here, Sir.

And Goodbye