@UFO (and only Ufo )
A bit off topic, but I want your opinion.
Recently I viewed a video featuring Tom Bearden.
In this video he explains how the MEG split the electric field from the (around the electric field curling) magnetic field. The magnetic field was bound in the core, and the electric field was outside the core.
That's how he created Cold electricity.

So my logical thinking is, when you want to convert Cold to Hot, you need to put the magnetic field back.
This can be done: either by pulsating with hot electricity, or by using permanent magnets.

Maybe I am wrong.
Just curious.

Bert

UFO,

When I wrote "wires/layers" I meant thatI will insolate between both, so each winding will be isolated just like magnet wire.

If a carbon fiber (from now on I will abbreviate as CF) coil may not carry the hot well, should I wind a copper magnet wire coil on the spool first, then. The carbon over that so that the copper coil could be used to draw the RE and the CF coil used to collect it? If so, how would the electronics have to work? Would I simply hook both coils in parallel to the same circuit. Could THE CF coil be set up as a secondary coil? Can the CF coil be set up to RECEIVE ONLY and not be pulsed to make a field?

Or maybe the copper magnet wire coil could be wound on the outside of the CF coil as the Cold energy will be in the center of the air coil, so the Hot's coil should be on the outside. What do you think?

This is fun,

Bob

UFO or anybody,

I have almost completed my first build of your device. Now I need to set it up for testing. I guess I will turn the frequency pot to the most resistance and the duty cycle pot to the middle of it's range. Is this correct or is there a better start setting?

Thanks,

Bob

Hello Bbem,

As I have been able to understand how this process works, because of my testing and development, and also by getting almost all material available to Us, I will tell you my opinion...

The process of conversion from Hot to Cold is a natural process, it has always existed in every coil we excite and suddenly stop feeding it (drop to zero). However, We must lay all requirements for it to occur properly and in robust ways. The perfect description would be a Magnetic Resonance or Magnetic Feedback, some kind of a "Reversed Magnetic Field Echo" as a reaction response to our action.
Therefore, in my opinion, the opposite process within the same action-reaction could not be reversed through the same process that originate it.

If you pulsate with hot the same coil...you will obtain cold back again...I believe you should pulse the Coil with Cold to obtain Hot...don't you think?...However, I have not done this, Cold has a stage of very high frequencies (at higher amplification than just collecting it from primary coil) that would require a special designed electronics to handle a square wave back into the coil at those HF rates...

The easier way to convert it would be to store Cold and send it to a downgrade transformer or "Buck Converter" of such resonance on its primary as to run and stand this HF pulses and transfer to Secondary a lower pulsed current, then filtered through electronics to get desired and more accurate operating levels. However this process is going to have huge losses for sure...and you may end up getting same amounts of Hot as when you started originally...

Honestly, I really do not see the point to make that conversion, I understand it as a "short cut" to be able to run Old Hot equipments, appliances, incandescent bulbs and such...but I see it as "going backwards in time again".

I see a lot of potential in Cold Electricity that are much better than Hot behavior...if we learn how to harness it and mass produce it first...how to store it, and how to manipulate it...then we will be moving on superconductor bearings very soon.

The thing I see, that converting Hot to Cold is a very inexpensive process..fast and very reliable, but mainly we obtain vast amounts of cold for just pennies of hot usage. Now the reversed process could be the complete opposite in advantage factor.

Again, this is my opinion, We are still in the early stages (not to say primitive) related to creating Cold from Hot...We still have tons of research and work to be done first...Therefore, we are just "assuming"...theorizing over something we do not have enough grounds to speak with 'Authority" about it.

Regards Bert

Ufopolitics

Hello Bob,

Yes, Ok that is great then!!...you would not have any problems of shorting out then!!
Related to Hot not creating a magnetic field strong enough is just my thought, not a real and tested fact...it could do it Bob...we both do not know.
Now, winding copper enameled wire over the carbon would act as a secondary in a transformer, and by the way that is a great idea!!
I did that set up but with just copper wire, it does induces Cold very efficiently into a secondary wound right on top of the other one.

YES!! CF COULD BE USED (AS BEST) as a Secondary, ( meaning, DO NOT connect to it ANY INPUT, but use it direct to output and read it. I am pretty sure you will get great output, maybe be greater than expected!
No, DO NOT CONNECT THEM BOTH IN PARALLEL !! Hot would follow the less resistive path...(copper) , but Hot will manifest also on CF Coil downgrading Cold secondary gain. Remember, it is the Magnetic Field what brings this current in.
The BEST WAY is that Copper BE OUTER, and CF INNER as Secondary. Radiant induces BEST towards the Inner center...

Will be waiting to hear from this test Bob!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Bob,

Related to the LM393 circuit I can not answer exactly, I have not build it yet.

However, to play "safe" I would install a meter at Drain-Positive to read voltage output and also a Scope or Hertz meter on same output terminals...BUT without connecting it to the Coil yet! And turn it on and read...If you have Full Power at Voltage between Drain-Positive then you MUST turn it opposite to zero.

The same with Frequency (Hertz)...they both should be at ZERO before starting, and then dialing frequency FIRST Up...very slowly.

YES Duty should be at 50% to start . But play first with Frequency...till you get it...I have got it without varying duty cycle. just Freq.

Use first a 120 V Neon or a 23 Watts or lower CFL as Monitoring lamp

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hey Bob,

When you connect Output Carbon Fiber Secondary to a load (CFL) Make sure You ALSO connect another SEPARATE OUTPUT From Primary Copper Coil TO ANOTHER LOAD THROUGH DIODES!!...This is very Important, or your Copper Coil will get super hot and could blow MOSFET's with High Positive Spikes going as reverse feedback through your drain !!

Make sure of this!!

Now I hope you are winding BOTH COILS (CF and Copper) AT SAME DIRECTION!!

Regards and good testing

Ufopolitics

Yes, this is fun...so make sure to let Us know so we could have fun also...

UFO,

Thank you for your great help. I hope to try this device today, tomorrow at the latest.

I guess that I will not need diodes on the Secondary coil as it is not going to be connected to power input. I hope to make the CF coil this next week (if weather permits).

If my device works I will post the circuit.

Thanks again,

Bob

That is great Bob, We will be waiting for your results!
Exactly, the secondary does not need diodes...Unless you are using a massive bulk steel frame that will induce Hot on Secondary very strong...But I know you are not...
Just a center steel bar or "Paracore" material will 'enhance' your results...
Hot will manifest on secondary on high pulses, but very weak, diodes on secondary will show you the difference on both currents, in case you want to make readings...

Please keep Us posted!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hi all

I have updated to the 31GF6 diodes.
New coil (other circuit) 100 turns bifilar, one layer, OD:32mm, parallel connection.
To adjust frequency, i have changed C1 to 10nF and short R6.
Power source: 36v
Control circuit: 13.95v
I have added a capacitor of 68mF-385v in parallel to the load.
Drain current: 390mA for 100% Brilliance eco bulb 11W 240v
Drain current: 390mA for 100% Brilliance eco bulb 15W 240v
Drain current: 390mA for 100% Brilliance eco bulb 30w 240v. I suspect the factory label should be bad.

At this point I am a bit lost. I need to compare my results.

@Ufo, I sent a private message to you, Have you received it?

I keep on working in the new coil.

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hello UFO
I want to thank you for what you have done for myself and others and the way you have explained and pulled things togeather for us. What I want to tell you is that both Bob and I not have our systems running and are seeing things that we have never seen befor. Bob will be contacting you on monday and will have pictures for you. Get your sun glasses on. We are also progressing on the CF and will report findings when we get the materials needed to insulate it.
Dana

UFO
I do not know where that word (not ) came fron in my post. That fact is that we have success and everything is working better than fantastic.
Dana

Hi all

Nobody has commented nothing on my observation in:
My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

Do you see that behavior normally?
It's my guess that the difference of voltage should be inverse Right?

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hallo bbem,

simple conversion COLD to HOT is just via big capacitor. Only requirement here is frequency ! El.Caps don't like low frequency with big ripple current. So you have to use HF caps as pre-filter and then el.caps to store energy.

Best way is to charge cap bank to maximal allowed level (Uds and cap max voltage dependent) and then use BUCK convertor to regulate output voltage. I am working on it now. One DSP controller regulating COLD side via duty cycle value to do not 'overshoot' max levels together with BUCK regulation of DC output voltage. Last step is full bridge true sine wave converter to make 230VAC. But this is not important at the moment.

Try to youtube 'Teslas Impulse Technology - John Bedini Lecture1/3' there are all answers Be sure you go through all 3 videos

Cinan

UFO et al,

WOW! That's what I'm talking about!

I ran my new build last night and FRIED a neon, super lit a 65w CFL, and did a little bit of battery charging. I will provide pics if I can negotiate Photobucket. I'm not the best computer guy. I have drawn the circuit from a compilation of pages 4, 12, & 13 and Dana is going to computerize it. It will be posted soon. The circuitry, except for the pots and MOSFETs, are on a 2" by 2" PCB. Everything, except the coil, is mounted on a 4" by 6" wood board.

First, I started with the most resistance on the frequency pot and mid-range on the duty cycle. I never changed the duty cycle which measured around 8%. I never got my frequency up much past 133Hz, which is where it started. The CFL was so bright from the very beginning that I was afraid to turn things up much.

UFO said that my coil was "a monster" (a good thing) and he was spot on! I think the 1.5" ParaCore works!

Second, my MOSFETs started heating up so I shut things down after about 5 minutes each time. They got into the high 90's, even to 100 degrees. So is this a function the duty what cycle, or low frequency, or what?

Thirdly, I guess that I need something bigger to run than a CFL, like a motor. I would like to turn up the frequency and see what this baby can do. Maybe if I get the CF coil together, I will have to look for a small city to light up.

UFO, you have made this wonderful device possible and I want to thank you for everything you've done and endured to make this come to life. I'm having a blast!

Thank you,

Bob

Hello Bob,

I am very glad that the set up worked out for you and for all others who have tried!!

WELCOME TO A NEW WORLD


Now get ready, because this is...

JUST THE BEGINNING

I am sorry if I have not been able to get back to you before. I am working now on the Motor-Generator applications of this same Technology, and will be posting it very soon.

I have developed a whole New Type of running machines, machines that "do not make any sense at all" to the typical existing ones...
Motors and Generators.
It is quite lots of Material to be disbursed out, many different options, many different set-ups, tons of diagrams...

The only question I have...

Should We Open a completely New thread for Motors and Generators?

What is your opinion?


My Love and regards to all!!

...You guys made me feel great!!, Ever since I have decided to start disclosing out all of this information, without the smallest bit of greed nor ambitions...This has been my best of times so far!!

Thank You Bob, Thank You Dana, Thank You Torpex (I am sorry I have not answered back your message, pero te queria dar una sorpresa...[in Spanish]) , thank You Cinan (great electronics man!!), Thank You ZeropointEnergy (from first time you always believed me, and I really appreciate that), Thank You ALL!!

My Love and very warm Regards!!

Now fasten your seat-belts for what's coming next!

Ufopolitics

Hola Torpex,

Como estas amigo?

The Factory Label is perfect Torpex...You just made an Over Unity device!

I have Lit 120Watts CFL (replacing 800Watts Hot) with 36V System in my first video Radiant Energy....and submerged in water...while On.

Welcome to a New World Amigo!!

Warm Regards Love and Light !!


Namaste!


Ufopolitics

Hello Bob,

MOSFET's will get Hot normally...make sure You have pretty heavy heat-sinks on all of them, I incorporated a small fan right at center of circuit to blow Voltage Regulator and MOSFET's Bus Bars...it keeps everything at normal temperature.

To protect your MOSFET's you could add a diode of lesser value than Intrinsic Diode on MOSFET right next to each one...Source To Drain connected.

A Brushed typical short-circuit DC Motor will Run very smooth and no sparks at all on Commutators, but mainly READ TEMPERATURE on Motor while ON at full blast, please!!...You will be amazed...
You may feel a small delay in the acceleration of motor at start...keep going it will "balance out"...

While you are turning Frequency On, leave it steady at bright bulb (not too bright or full blast) then try playing with duty cycle in order to reduce Hot Time On (T1)...Increasing Time Off...then turn Frequency higher.

All my pleasure my friend!!


Warm Regards

Ufopolitics

Ufo, you are welcomed. It seems like now you are getting excited It was good idea to open this thread and share facts &findings. Everybody has its own limitations and if we put heads and efforts together, we should squeeze good stuff out

regarding new thread, I thing its relevant to open it. As this thread is discussing basic technology and coil itself. We can develop it further, amplify, finish whole design to be useful, etc.
Motors are rotating machines and I wouldn't mix it here. But its only my opinion. And both forums can be interconnected anyway.

cheers,

Cinan

To Bob French, Dana and Torpex,

So far you guys had hit the right spot on Magnetic Resonance or Feedback of your circuits, now, I know you are all excited, and that sometimes do not let you do things right...
Please do not change that set up!!, leave it like it is without taking a single turn of wire off your coils!!, make another coil to experiment with it...but leave that one alone
Take measurements and annotate all parameters as possible!!
Measure-calculate your coils spec's, impedance, resistance and capacitance.
Measure your exact output levels before the oscillator goes on peak levels.

There is a very low point of Frequency where you start getting a very fast strobe of Blue-purplish Light, on CFL's, mixed with some green that bothers your eyes... measure that Frequency...I know if you keep "dialing up" it will get brighter and steady, however, that point of first heavy flashing is very important, because that is your exact frequency(ies) where Radiant Field starts coming On, it could be a range of Frequencies...But this will bring us a steady parameter to -in a future- just turn it to that very point and then keep dialing.

Electronic Oscillation Circuitry should be focused on that particular point...to Increase it without the need to increase Hot Input. I believe in a near future we will be able to increase Radiant Feedback while leaving Hot pulses at that steady low rate, maybe at very short Times On Peaks, but, of Higher Voltages from Hot.

So we need to compare this values together to come up to where Magnetic Resonance-Feedback comes In.


Great Work Guys!! Congratulations!!


Let's keep Rolling!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello Cinan,

Yes, of course I am excited!...

I do agree that "Rotating Machines" (I like that term... ) should be in another Thread...and to those entering in it for first time should come here first and read this thread to understand second one.

However, let's see what other members say about it...

Ever Heard of Asymmetrical Motor-Generator's Stators and Rotors NOT BLDC or Three-Six Phase?
No, right?...Well you will soon.

Related to the third video: I am still working on it..will release soon, it is about Isolated Secondaries set-up in both planes of Radiant Field: Horizontal and Vertical.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

To all,

Here's the link to Photobucket for "Bobfrench's Album":

Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket

There are pics of lighting a 65w CFL, the circuit (hand drawn), and the device.

Sorry I don't know how to post it so that you can just link to it by clicking on it. Someone needs to tell me how to do that.

Enjoy,

Bob

The link worked any way...cool.

Bob

And especially UFO.
Thanks for all hard work and great info.
I hope I will join soon with a succesfull replication.

ps. Backup your Pc files, just in case..

Bert

Great Job Bob!!

Pictures look awesome man!!

Like I said...and now looking at it...That COIL IS A MONSTER!!...

I imagine the great and strong magnetic field you are generating there!

A Quadfilar of 19 awg is an awesome Coil set-up!!

However Bob, for the kind of withdraw that Coil is demanding, Your Transistors will get stressed out, that's why they get so hot.
You could parallel more, with same arrangement, (I had up to six mosfet's in parallel) just adding more branches of 330 Ohms and 47 K's to gates...then they will disburse their super-fast switching more "relaxed". They could also use a bigger Heat Sink.

Now for easier uploading of your pictures files, keep scrolling down on post writing screen, and after "submit replay/preview post" you will see a button "Manage Attachments", press that one and another window will open...select to "Browse" from your PC Files and then press Upload right at selected file pictures.
Then go back to reply window and your picture file name should appear on it...right below "manage attachments". then post or preview the reply post.

Let me know if it worked out...


Great job Bob, and thanks for coming back to share it with all of Us!!

You are a great man Bob!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hey Ufo,

Thankyou for your kind words. I made Cinan's circuit first but did not have any luck, not sure what I done wrong so built a astable 555 timer circuit that started at 30Hz. (other circuit was in the MHz range )

I just used a NPN transitor to obtain a result and now I will remove the 2 x IRF740 MOSFET's from the Cinan's circuit and solder this together.
I was so inspired to make this a few days ago that I spent from 12-4am making Cinan's circuit and was getting down on myself that I failed.

The sqaure wave has a discharge curve in the middle of "time high" and will have to trouble shoot that circuit another time.

I'm glad you put pressure on me to replicate your results and here is the start of the progression. Circuit set to 30Hz and the neon began to glow with more brillance than I had ever seen when leaving the secondary battery terminal unhooked to show off Radiant to mates on my Bedini rotored or SS SSG's.
and thus had to stop the test instantly and record my results to post up pics here to prove my results

Data:
Input voltage = 12V
Current draw = 300mA (this was at 90% duty cycle)
Input frequency = 30Hz (at 220Hz the current draw was 800mA)

I'm going to email Dana and Bob to chat and replicate their circuit they have been working on, LM317 and a few other parts arrived today so I can test out that section. The NTExxx parts are coming from the US and I thought would only take 3-4 days to reach me in Australia, has been that now so I'm growing impatient

Hope you enjoy my pics, I will add 2 that clearly show it (camera did not pic up all anomolies) and I'm looking forward to more

Regards
Zero

Attached Thumbnails

   

Hey Ufo,

My coil is 4 x 150ft of AWG#23 (0.56mm) plus 150ft of 0.4mm (not used) and each strand measures 3.8 Ohms. I only used one for my test but I'm about to add 3 in parallel to obtain 1.6 Ohms and re-test/record.
Coil is litz to keep the capacitance/inductance as linear as I could using a drill making the coil.

I had that coil made up for other tests, new coil is going to be 200T of AWG#18 (1mm) on a 50.4x50.4mm Acrylic coil (will have made up) and 57x75mm PVC tube to test the Radiant properties.
Or have you done these tests?

P.S - Will have to use Photobucket soon as running low on upload space .

Regards
Zero

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hey Bob,

Great job mate, nice, neat set up and thanks for posting your combined circuit. I have to scale my results up past the neon with MOSFET's in parallel all I obtained from the 240V/10W CFL was buzzing

Regards
Zero

Hello ZPE!

Nice pictures!!...Yes I can see the Neon Purple light...that's great!!

Is a good idea to talk to Bob and Dana about building your circuit, even though the schematics look pretty clear...it looks like the LM 339 (Dual LM393'S) is much better than the 555 timer...We have to thank Kapen and specially Mad Scientist for bringing it in here..

Well, yes I have wound Coils on Acrylic and also on PVC...However the best core-spool material to me is Fiberglass so far...I would have loved to use Carbon Fiber...but it kills Radiant in a closed CF cylinder...do not work at all...

Now according to Bob French results (He kept frequency at the lows 130's Hz)...

we all could make up that the more strands of wire in the "Multifilar" Coil...the lower frequencies required to run Radiant at full range-blast.

I have to go on my Bifilar Coil up to 800 Hz to get Radiant at high peaks.

We have to realize it is MOSTLY about the Magnetic Field strength and not much about the electrical parameters (like resistance, voltage , etc...what we are all looking to "Enhance" here...

Making Multifilar in Parallel generates very heavy Magnetic field from Hot at very "Low Cost Values"(low frequencies, therefore less spent energy on our side)... generating a great Radiant Field resonance-Output.
And this is the idea.."To get more for less"...
However, there must be compensation at the MOSFET's level, when we have very low resistance values, because of Higher number of strands in the Parallel Multifilar Coil...in order to run a "Stable and Relaxed" system.


Good work ZPE, and be patient you will get parts soon!!


Regards

Ufopolitics

Hey UFO,

I could not help myself and made a video with a fresh neon bulb.
Have you found that after a few mins the neon stops generating the white/purple Radiant flashes and only has the plasma across the 2 legs?

Circuit is set to 44Hz at 89% duty cycle TL. I was only running the tests for 2-3 mins to let to NPN transistor cool down. I'm sure I will solder a full astable timer circuit, including the LM317 in the next few days untill the op amp (LM339 is from the UK) and the US parts arrive .

Enjoy my friend and looking forward to your comments
Plasma Effects in a Neon Bulb due to Radiant Anomolies at 44Hz - 15th May 2012.AVI - YouTube

Regards
Zero