Regarding flash tube:
Yes well. Same is my observation.
Sorry, perhaps I did'nt express clear enough. I refered to the xenon auto bulb as rugged OV protection for monster caps HV (i.e. 3µF 20KV). Such a charge would easily explode a normal flash tube.

Regarding HV cap:
- Polyester owns a better dielctric constant than other plastic materials (water would be the best !) and better HV resistance.
- I like the idea to glue the edges of the plates inside the doc pouches in order to prevent arcover through air there. It proved to be very reliable. So we can omit oil.
- The only weak part are the edges and wrinkles because of the increased electrical field at those places.
- Apart that we can easily design any voltage by adding additional pouches.
- I calcualted 10 Euro max. for 2µF 20 KV, added bunch of hours for manufactoring added.

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

ok, is understood.

That's what worries me.
The frequency measurement is made on pin 3 of 555.
Will take the measurement at the output of diode, right?
Can it be that you use 120v bulb and I use 240v? Without load gives me around 500-550v, maybe good for 120v and insufficient to 230v?
Cinan also has to raise the frequency and he uses 240v
With one 125w CFL and 36v the current drain must be 3-3.2A, right?

New were the pictures, but it is running, I put the data from this post:
My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy
Drain current decreased of 390mA to 290mA. But do not know how far this can be good.

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hello Torpex,

Ok, let's see...

Ok, the frequency measurement [for output right?] yes it is at both diodes output, both.
Now, for Input Frequency just before diodes...

After you connect meters...start dialing slowly from zero frequency up...and see what your first Input measurement is>>>
I think, just think you may have some issues at the RC part of the Frequency adjustment ...between trigger resistors and small cap to ground...
what kind of Cap you are using at the R/C Circuit...Did you try replacing it with lower values?
what is your potentiometer resistance?

Related to 120 versus 240...it could be one of the issues...I will check and see if I can get a 240 CFL...to test it myself...would be interesting to know...
However, the Wattage rating is what matters...They should balance the "equation" by lowering amps...to get same W at 240V...don't you think?

Now related to Neons I know it does not matter the voltage rate...it is suppose to show purple light at very low frequencies when you do the zero-up slowly test with Frequency Meters hooked on....

Let's see what happens...

let me know

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,
you mentioned some pages before your sadness regarding the late evolution of free energy devices. If feel same but there are good reasons to be excited as well. I explain this along some facts.

1. 40% of the global population live in or near cities - most of them in slums.
2. Same procentage live near the global shorelines. (God beware from tsunamies)
3. There are 40 countries spending more money for oil than exporting goods!!!
4. Rural exodus happens globally because people can not earn their life by producing crops by the work of their hands. They follow the energy - not to use it but to get some crumbs falling down from the owners and users and wasters of energy.
5. If people can get cheap energy in rural areas they can refine their crops there and get more money. They will not leave their homes where they feel contained. They will be able to work some hours after sunset and their children can learn for school after the effort of the day.
7. The "democratic" energy devices can be financed by microcredits.
In Bangladesh the micro credit banc startet to sell small solar panels.
First year: 300 units
Second year: 10000units
Third year: 30000 units
All units distrubuted, mounted, repaired by women and their female customeers paying them by doing higher qualified and more work.
8. I feel that apart from not destroying the environment there is an additional effect of not destroying grown social structures. I know some examples from south of Tansania where they reform these ancient grown structures very smoothly and successfuly (still not by free energy but it will help considerably). All ruled by local authorities!

I feel this is my (our) mission and we ourselves will never get short of advantages by doing so.
rgds John

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

Hello John,

Well, I know about the way I feel, reason why I do what I am doing...don't recall that particular post, but am sure I did write about it...
I do not know if you have read my latest Thread about Symmetrical versus Asymmetrical EM Systems...but everything is right there...The sad truth of our reality, and our past, really well described by you in just eight main statements...but you and I know there is more to it, and more to come if we do nothing about it...

The truth has been that our entire kind have been betrayed, based on the greed of a 1%...and that is not fair...many generations have gone through misery for over a Century, just to benefit a 1%...Many Countries...well you know...why keep going...
It is really annoying and disgusting to get to know the real truth John...
And I tell you what, I already passed the stage of sadness...is over, is behind...all I want now is to finish my job ...what I came here to do, to accomplish...and I am about to finish...still a lot of work...but I can make it, God gave me the gifts that I have learned how to use them the right ways...and I will.
ALL Asymmetric Systems, brake the Symmetry of the "Eternal burning loop" and that has been the only way that we have learn in EE...To loop everything...constant burning energy, to pay for more energy, to keep burning...and spending more...and being miserable all our life...
I have run a Big Generator with a small DC Motor...and it works, and we never needed the Big HP Gas Engine to run it...it was a pure LIE...a Crippled Science bought out for $...sad isn't it?
Did you see the Tariel Kapanadze Motor Video?, running a Huge Generator (the ones with a hook on top Frame to be lifted with a Crane Hook) lighting up a 1000Watts Lamp?
If You haven't please watch it...It takes minutes to start running it with a Pulley-Belt Assy...the Motor keeps spinning very slowly...but turning the generator...

Now just a simple question...Do you think that ANY Symmetrical, series wound Lap Armature Motor,(or ANY other existing commercial Motor you want to recall)...could develop that Torque at those incredibly low RPM's?
The answer is "absolutely not"...it will burst in flames in the first 1/4 turn...or maybe less...1/32 of a turn, five degrees...it will burn up.
Only, an Asymmetrical Motor could do that job, John...
Why?
The answer is very simple...Single or Pair of Coils per contact segment, isolated...turn on,then it goes on idle, turned off, cool down while being substituted by a fresh and cold new Pair or group of independent coils...and so on...I could move Mountains that way...with that set-up...is simple...
This motors never overheat...but there is more...they create resonance in every coil at contact (On) and at idle (Off) they return any "excess of energy" back into the source...their consumption is minimal ...and then is more...and more benefits they have...they are endless machines...

Regards John


Ufopolitics

PD:Here is the Tariel Kapanadze Motor Video:
A Nine Volt Battery is used to start this motor!!
Fiction?...No, is real, We have been fooled John...our entire race...

Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube"]Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube[/url]

Hello @Ufo,

This is my oscilator setup:
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...y-ufolowhz.jpg

R4.- Freq.
R7.- dtc

C1 type: MKT
C1 several values: 22n, 10n, 15n, 47n 82n, 100n, 150n
R6.- Short to 680 ohm to raise freq. range.
R5.- 680 ohm (for low dtc)

Frequency measurements:
Pin 3 to 80Hz:
Output diodes at 740-750Hz, CFL flashing
No load: 280Hz

Pin 3 to 160Hz:
Output diodes at 1520, CFL flashing
No load: 560Hz

My setup gives 50-80v at low hz and my bulb need 95-100v to start. With low hz the bulb flashing.
As I climb the frequency... the voltage rises to approximately 550V (above 100kHz)

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Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hi all

Tests CFL bulb 9w 220-240v:
"Precision luxmeter" (solar cell with meter) gives me 0.66mA. I adjusted to this reference the same level and gives me 290-300v DC across capacitor bulb.

Drain current in 12v setup is 1.10-1.20A.
Drain current with 12v inverter is 1.14A.

Thanks JohnStone

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

Hey Torpex,

Just at first sight...by looking at the diagram you linked...I see one big error.

You are running out of leg 3 of 555 the 100 Ohms direct to the two Gates of Q1-Q2, and using just one resistor (that I see is too low on resistance) to bias the gate (re-open the switch)...this causes stress in your pulsing regulating IC (555) and your MOSFET's are NOT running even with this circuit. The closer MOSFET [Q1] (physically) to the 100 ohms would work more than Q2...not good, not evenly switching my friend.

Solution is simple, add a 330 ohms to EACH GATE between 100 (R1) and gate, and then you also have to add another R3 for Q2. Another thing, R3 has to be attached after 330ohms, not before to 100 ohms R1...

If you look at my circuit will notice that each MOSFET have its own resistor of 330ohms and R3 of 47Kohms...
I don't think your MOSFET's are closing the circuit properly with just 10K...to me is too low value...
But wait a minute...I just found something else!...
You are running this MOSFET's the 822's you posted and I gave you the spec's? with just 12 Volts??!!
I really have no idea how you are able to even flash that CFL my friend!!

You need more power to excite that bifilar coil!!
The Source must be at least 24V, Torpex!!
The thing is you are trying to make it without a voltage regulator...is Ok...but you need to switch that coil with more voltage than 12 volts...and you are not getting even 12V...because some voltage is being used by timer and regulating resistors circuit...
That is your problem my friend!
You need a voltage regulator circuit and make higher power supply, at least 24V to drive those Mosfet's.
Now you should measure with a Volt meter the Drain legs of Q1-Q2 separate, one first, then the other, with positive to other meter probe, while circuit is pulsing low...and see if it comes down to zero at times off, do it at very low, low pulses...or at least if it decays at very low voltages (Milli Volts)
I do not think they are opening the switch properly...or closing it...it could be both...because you need two more resistors 330 to each, this balances the signal equally to both gates...
If you do not understand message me private

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello Torpex,

I believe that with all the translation problems you may have not understood Nada...

So I made this repaired circuit for you below...

However, I will love to hear the opinion (of my fix) from other Electronic Engineers around please...really appreciated, like Cinan or Larry...or anyone is willing to look at it...
I set a Diode D3 to protect MOSFET's from feedback...it could be the same Diodes you are using at Coil. rated over 100V at least.
I erase some of your previews connections and made independent wiring to each Gate from R1(100ohms)
Also added another R3 (2), meaning whatever value works better (I have 47K) both have to be same value R3=R3(2) in order to open Mosfet's switch.
Added a second Battery set just to run your Mosfet's...24V Minimum.

NOW, here is where I really tell you this...If your Mosfet's go bad, and short Gate with Drain (it DOES Happens)...then you will fry your 555 and more...That is why I like the Voltage Regulators...and not two supplies in one...and the thing is, you can not set a diode between Gate and leg 3 of 555 ( including resistors)...so watch mosfet's temperature very close...PLEASE!!
The only way to be able to run this circuit completely safe is through Opto-Isolators between 555 leg 3 and Gate, I mentioned that before in previews posts. Then you could rise the voltage up to 400 Volts as MOSFET'S allows.

I do not want your circuit to get damaged because of my "fix"!

Ok, Regards and pray ...

No, it will be fine...I know it will work out now
JUST DRIVE IT UP SLOWLY!!...and do not get to too High KHertz this time!

Regards

Ufopolitics

PD: This is just a Fix on your switching system...I have NOT looked at your oscillating part...is different than mine...we will get there later, let's try this fix first.
Pray again...

Attached Thumbnails

 

Hello @Ufo,

Sorry, I have not explained well. Only use the oscillator section. The output is 2 rails mosfets (3xSSP16N50C3 and 3xSSP2N60B), as you advised me.
http://www.cacharreo.com.es/foro/dow...=137&mode=view
Power source 36v (3 batteries of car)
LM338K regulator fixed to 13.95v
31GF6 Diodes

The result with 12v and 36v is proportional. I use 12v for test, but lit the bulb as I posted before.

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

TORPEEEX!!

Man...you have no idea how long it took me to fix your circuit!!!...

Is Ok, no problems...
Hey, did you forget JUST in this new diagram the 100 Ohms R1 or you are not using it??
The other thing is, I like to run direct wiring from the 100 end to each 330 resistot to MOSFET Gate, not like you show here...signal circuitry have to be done pretty "independent"...no short-cuts to save making more wiring. However that should not be the problem you have...

You must use the R1!

If, you do use R1 (100 Ohms) and this new diagram looks great...then the problem is your oscillation circuit my friend...nowhere else to look.

Regards

Ufopolitics

I regret the extra work, i know you are busy.
The good news is that the fix has worked before.
I've been posting my progress and I thought you knew.
Remember that I sent you a pm. Thanks you for your help.

I use R1
I also tested with 48v
The strange thing is that I also tested with a Frequency Generator with the same results.

I think I should try the LM339 or maybe other mosfets.

If you can test for me, or someone that works
I would like to know what voltage the bulb lights
When tuned which is drain current, before and after starting bulb, if there is a constant or increasing.

__________________
Regards
http://Cacharreo.com.es/foro

It is Ok...I've got all the time in the World...
Don't worry about that, no problem...smile, be happy...

But, But, But that is GRRREAT!!...so...why you worry so much?
really do not understand that part...

Of course I know that you were successful, of course I remeber your PM...but then you've said you had some issues, problems...

My pleasure Torpex, all my pleasure, always

Great
Even better
It is ok, as long as you are generating the specific required signal...it will do it with any "apparatus"...why do you worry?

You could do that, try Bob French-Mad Scientist circuit, I will also, it will just guarantee more success.

Torpex, you are the only one that can test your own set-up...I really do not trust 100% a "Virtual" Software Simulator...there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING like the Real Actual Live Model.
The Bulb starts flashing with Radiant at low pulses of 100Hz accelerating pulses up to 300Hz...I start getting a steady lighting at 500-800 Hz, then what starts increasing is just the brightness...I am talking about INPUT from HOT, now Cold readings could climb all the way to 2000Hz, it depends what wattage lamp I am using (Your Load)
The Input Voltage that starts to flash is around 0.2-0.5V

Max full lighting up to 4.0V MAX AT INPUT [Meter reading at Drain-Positive, before Diodes, current entering Coil...](Light going cracking, too much brightness)...NOW, OUTPUT (after Diodes) is in the 200V...
Remember I use 120V Lamp...
Same as yours...Start I get 300-400 Ma...all the way to 800 Ma MAX...
Now I could drive it to almost 1.5A...but then Lamp starts to crack glass (borderline to blow it)...This lamps are really good!!...they tell you by hearing this crackling inside...I have got to the point of blowing the Electrolytic inside electronic ballast and had to replace them...lamp keeps going after replacement with a higher voltage, same capacitance cap. Example: Cap was rated 33uf 200V, I replaced with 33uf 400V, now is fine...it holds more "crackling"... that is just an example, and I am talking about electronic ballast Cap, NOT in our pulsing circuit.

CONSTANT?...This current-voltage is NEVER constant!!, is very, very dynamic, Up, down...raise,fall, besides our meters can not read Her properly...I believe until we find a way to store it properly and put "Her" in a "relaxation mode"...She will keep being a very "Hyper, Jumpy Lady"!!!...

I really do not understand why 'you worry so much'..?...You are doing great!!
I really do not understand what is actually "The Problem" you have...

Or you are not getting a full brightness?...is that the problem?
I have read you every post, and every spec and circuit...I see your spec's are fine.
Now remember I told you those MOSFET's You are using were SUPER SLOW, remember?
Therefore, you are NOT going to get a very good switching at Ultra fast pulsing never , EVER, with them...their RdsOn is supper high in resistance, that is BAD, not good!!, they need to be rated in the Milli-Ohms...0.02 Ohms...or so.
They will NOT respond to fast pulsing, therefore you will never get full brightness.
So, yes, replace them!!

Regards and Cheers


Ufopolitics

Hey UFO,

First off, if you wanted a certain circuit made to replicate all your variables or a Bob's combination circuit from here I just gave you the option if you had a preference
Guru, lol. Well I found that very offensive to the people reading the post and to insinuate that all reading, or posting are mindless sheep. But I try not to waste energy on things I have no control of.

I'm having fun experimenting with a few PWM circuits with the 555 timer still, order from the US arrived finally and the NTE diodes have reduced the frequency I obtain the Radiant not to 6-7Hz as any lower the wave is no longer a square wave signal, has been 2Hz but was not effective.

I have all the parts for Bob's combination circuit and after I troubleshoot the circuit in a breadboard I will post up a YT clip of the alternate PWM circuit.

Glorifying the light, that is an understatement Well I see that main aspect of the Radiant as the green gas, not the purple my friend as the gas I recorded over a year ago and the purple flash was never contained till I utilized a neon and thus my bias.

Therefore, can you help answer my questions on my observations so I know if I made an error in my analysis?
Since there is no EE textbook to read on Radiant energy oscillations that obtain these anomolies.
I have read the physics theory on random fluctuations gate in zeropoint-energy from the quantum vacuum, but these are theories and not a tangable test that one can conduct to quantify.

Regards
Zero

Hey Kogs,

Glad to see you here mate and that you finished reading all the content.

Regards
Zero

Hey Torpex,

Many questions, lol. I will try answer most and sorry for the late reply as real life has been busy the last few days.

I use a basic PWM circuit that I calculated to range from 0Hz to 1.2kHz based on a 555 timer with only a diode from pin 7 to ground.

With that circuit the duty cycle can be set under 50% and I have it set to 11% time high in a 37ms time period.

I do have all the parts to make UFO's original circuit and Bob's combination circuit and both are progressing

I'm from Australia and thus may be a language barrier. I hope that you translated the information for the TY clip and it generated a clearer understanding. Or was it the content?

That is a very high frequency to light your CFL's and does the neon take more than 50Hz to light? I only used a function generator at uni a few times and my experience with them is limited, sorry.

Hope that helped, albeit late

Regards
Zero

Would that look something like this, or am I totally off?
link to eBay (That is polystyrene, but not that relevant in this case, perhaps).

Sorry for double posting, I meant to quote this:

(My posts do not update when I edit them)

Hello UFO and Torpex
UFO you had asked me to comment on the circuit. First I would like to state that it seems that some on here don't know the meaning of replicate. To me to replicate means to make an exact copy of something. If you make one change from the original then it isn't a replication, thus you can't expect the same results. If you change anything in an electronic circuit, it can change how entire circuit functions. 90% of the post on this thread involve changes of one kind or another.

Regarding torpex's circuit... UFO unless I am missing something I think the only difference your changes would make in torpex circuit is it might give a very small higher voltage on the gate of the mosfets because of the difference in the values of R1+330Ohm and 47kOhm resistors compared to the 100Ohm and 10kOhm. If torpex changed his R1 resistor to 270Ohm and his R3 to 24kOhm, it would be the same electrically as yours. On the other hand I still maintain that if you are replicating someones work you should build exactly like theirs then if it works, start your own thread titled "How I changed UFO's motor" and make your changes (if you feel they are needed) there. JMHO

Regards
Larry

Hey Larry!!

Larry, I agree with You in a 100% about what a replication concept is...and all consequences it may bring for not doing it so...
However I understand also that we are here from all over the world...and I have placed some parts that are accessible only in certain places, even though they could be cross referenced with local manufacturers, unfortunately this not always occurs successfully...

Related to Torpex circuit it was my response to a circuit He posted by mistake...it was not complete...so He rectified later...You are right there again...if you compare it with his latest one...but going to previous post than mine...you will find it..


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hey ZPE!

Hey that is great that you got the parts!!...so then we will see video soon!

I like the LM 339 Circuit, it can do what the 555 can't...I will tell you when I built it.
Now I like the 555, and am intending not to disassemble it ever!!...
I will build a new one from scratch again...

ZPE, related to your opinion on Green-Purple Lights...I agree with you there...and you have been studying this lights and effects for a long time by now...to the point I may say you are a Master of Radiant Energy Light...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi Stator,
sorry - misunderstood. I talked of my home brew polyester caps (see my link above pointing to a doc). I make them with document pouches and they are made of polyester. I like to mis-use parts and materials for tasks they were not dedicated for.
Polystyrene is a modified polystyrol.

If you edit a post go to "edit / go advanced" then updating is OK.
rgds John

__________________
Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

Aha, now I understand. Somehow I overlooked the links.
Nice work you did there.
Using various materials & parts for unintended uses can be educational and save money, prototyping etc. It's nice.

Edit: Seems to work the way you suggested, thanks.

UFO et al,

OK. I finally got parts and rebuilt the circuit. I replaced the .1uF cap with a .01uF cap, but the lowest frequency that I could get was around 600Hz, even with 300 ohms of resistanec in the pots.

But it started right up and immediately took my charge batteries from 33.6v to 37.2v, thento 38.0v after two minutes. The Primary dropped from 37.2v to 36.6v and remained there until as I was slowly going up...it stopped. Now it pegs the 2A meter when before it was using .5A...obviously a non-pulsing situation. Auuuugh.

It started out around 600Hz and at 766Hz (input) italics was at 1.16kHz (output), then just after this it blew. Anyone have an idea why? The only thing I did at this timw was replace the cap with a lower value and replace the LM339. I am going to add a little more capacitance (maybe another .01uF).

It seems to work so well when it runs.

I have also started making the CF coil. I got some 3/64" heat shink and am threading. The CF throuhg it with a needle and magnet (to pull it along). It is slow going, but will be foolproof insolation. I heaated a test piece w/ the CF in it and it worked well. I heated the CF with a flame to see if the heat would affect it. It glow red hot, but didn't seem to affect it at all.

Bob

Hi folks, Hi bob, I don't know what part blew in your circuit, though I am still testing battery charging with my circuit and already blew one mosfet because i accidentally removed one wire from one of the output diodes and instantly fried the mosfet, it started to heat up as a result.
I now have a neon across the drain and source, though I don't know if that will help for future mistakes.
I am weary of powering a cfl, because I know at higher power input levels, the cfl may not always suck all the radiant pulses up and could feedback to the mosfet, even though they are salvaged, I still don't like blowing parts that are hard to replace.
peace love light
tyson

Hey Bob!!

First, am sorry about the bad news with your circuit...
It is starting too high, Bob...At 600 Hz is too much!
This is a "Process" to follow like a religious ritual...

First you have to develop the Hot Field, and RE starts coming in...I would say minimum 100 to 200 Hz from Hot.
What happened was that both field too suddenly started up its process, and your circuit received very fast negative feedback from both currents.
Need to put a Diode (same you are using) between Drain and Negative like this [Drain]---l<---[Negative].
Your frequency starts too high because there is a problem in your Pot-Resistors-Cap to ground (the RC Tank)...has to be re-arranged.
If you lower the Cap value to lower, then have to increase the resistors around Pot...or increase Pot. Honestly am not sure with that circuit...

Have you tried a 0.1 Tantalum Cap (they are polarized, so make sure you look into that) replacing the 0.01?
Tantalums are much better, but hard to find in those spec's.

It is a shame after it was running so great!!
But the battery charging was awesome!!...so Cheer Up!!

I have burn many Mosfet's and other components...this are experiments...everything is expected.

I can wait to hear from you on the CF Coil!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello Skywatcher!

Sorry about the Mosfet...
Neon is not going to do much either...
Like I told Bob, set a diode (same type you are using on coil) between Negative-Drain= [Drain]--l<---[Neg]
I never had a problem with CFL's except blowing their 33 uF Cap...rated at 200V...but replaced with same value 400V...lights great.
Now, I do not use below 23 Watts with my set-up (36V Input)...so I really do not know...
If you remove (open) the circuit to Radiant Output while is On...You will get all RE Spikes into your circuit...and get Mosfet's on fire.

I hope you won't have any more trouble.

Regards

Ufopolitics

UFO et al,

OK. I finally got parts and rebuilt the circuit. I replaced the .1uF cap with a .01uF cap, but the lowest frequency that I could get was around 600Hz, even with 300 ohms of resistanec in the pots.

But it started right up and immediately took my charge batteries from 33.6v to 37.2v, thento 38.0v after two minutes. The Primary dropped from 37.2v to 36.6v and remained there until as I was slowly going up...it stopped. Now it pegs the 2A meter when before it was using .5A...obviously a non-pulsing situation. Auuuugh.

It started out around 600Hz and at 766Hz (input) italics was at 1.16kHz (output), then just after this it blew. Anyone have an idea why? The only thing I did at this timw was replace the cap with a lower value and replace the LM339. I am going to add a little more capacitance (maybe another .01uF).

It seems to work so well when it runs.

I have also started making the CF coil. I got some 3/64" heat shink and am threading. The CF throuhg it with a needle and magnet (to pull it along). It is slow going, but will be foolproof insolation. I heaated a test piece w/ the CF in it and it worked well. I heated the CF with a flame to see if the heat would affect it. It glow red hot, but didn't seem to affect it at all.

Bob

UFO et al,

Good news. In taking the board off to inspect for a reason for stoppage I found that there was corrosion on some of the solder joints, especially at the VR. I then remembered that it had gotten rained on shoertly before it blew the first time. Having cleaned all areas between the joints and replaced the LM339 I'm off and running.

Starting my tuning at 270Hz(input side, 405Hz output side), I adjusted (frequency only) up to 704Hz (input side, 740Hz output side) with 0 resisance on pots and using .03uF cap. Then I raised the duty cyle from 8% to 19.6% to increase charging.

With the 8% duty cycle drawing 425mA, the Primary dropped from 37.1v at rest to 36.7v under load and the charge bank went from 34.54v at rest to 37.2v immediately. As I tuned over the next 25 minutes, the Primary rose to 36.8v (from 36.6v) aas the draw fell from 425mA to 200mA and the charging went to 37.9v then steadily dropped to 37.4v as the mAs dropped. I then adjusted the duty cycle to 19.6%. The Primary dropped to 36.6v and
the charge bank rose to 38.1v. Coil was 95-97 degrees whole time (ambient = 94.5).
After an hour the Primary has dropped to 36.1v and the charge bank is at 37.6v. I assume that it is being desuphate at this point. But the frequency reads 282Hz (input side, 706Hz output side), the duty cycle has moved slightly up to 20.3%, and the draw has encreased slightly to about 800mA. I don't know what to make of that.

An interesting observation is that the powered ParaCore that I pored into the coil center is dancing on top. I had noted how the level had dropped after using it figuring that it was packing because of the oscilation vibration. Here I see the particles literally jumping up and down...cute.

Bob

Hey Bob!!

Great testing!!

Like I told you in my previous post, the issue was around your Pot-Resistors, that is a very sensible spot for the whole oscillator, and you have to make sure the cables running to LM339 from R-C (Pot-Cap_Resistors) are tight and secure...
Related to the Paracore Powder I was thinking of pouring it inside a tubing that fits inside the Coil center...maybe a high resistance glass tubing or fiberglass and sealing it with some clear plexiglass or lexan caps...previously inserting inside a small little coil of fine wire...like 33 awg / 120-150 Turns, wrapped around a small magnet (like my little UFO on my video...and glue an LED to it...Then you could see what's going on inside the core with the paracore powder...with the illumination from the LED...little coil-magnet-LED will "float" at dead center of big coil when is pulsing...

Regards Bob


Ufopolitics